Routing brake lines
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Joined: Oct 2002
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From: Mary Esther Florida
Routing brake lines
I bought a set of stainless steel brake lines for my 1979. Will I need to remove the transmission crossmember to replace the long line that runs from the front of the car to the rear? Thanks for any help.....Mike
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2001
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From: Wichita KS
Re: Routing brake lines (1979VetteMike)
1979VetteMike,
In "How to Restore and Modify Your CORVETTE - 1968-82", by Richard Newton, page 86-87, there is a discussion of this problem and the author reaches the conclusion that you have to remove the body from the frame to replace the long line that runs from the distribution block back to the rear of the car.
However, there have been several threads posted where CF members said they were able to replace the line without a body lift. You might check the archives on this.
I currently have the engine, transmission, transmission crossmember, trailing arms, etc out of my 1980 and I am in the process of replacing all my brake lines. I am going to try to change this line w/o doing the body lift. This one has me wondering too. I wish us both luck!
In "How to Restore and Modify Your CORVETTE - 1968-82", by Richard Newton, page 86-87, there is a discussion of this problem and the author reaches the conclusion that you have to remove the body from the frame to replace the long line that runs from the distribution block back to the rear of the car.
However, there have been several threads posted where CF members said they were able to replace the line without a body lift. You might check the archives on this.
I currently have the engine, transmission, transmission crossmember, trailing arms, etc out of my 1980 and I am in the process of replacing all my brake lines. I am going to try to change this line w/o doing the body lift. This one has me wondering too. I wish us both luck!
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Joined: Oct 2002
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From: Mary Esther Florida
Re: Routing brake lines (mapman)
What year was he doing? I know that the earlier Vettes did not have removeable transmission crossmembers. Mayby that would be why you would have to remove the body?-just a suggestion. I know it won't be easy, but I just don't want to have to remove the body.....Thanks and good luck...
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2000
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From: Florham Park NJ Port Credit Ontario
Re: Routing brake lines (1979VetteMike)
You DO NOT have to remove the body.
I did however have the trans crossmember out when i replaced the lines.
Automatic cars have the removable crossmember, all others had the thing welded in.
I did however have the trans crossmember out when i replaced the lines.
Automatic cars have the removable crossmember, all others had the thing welded in.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 3,050
Likes: 124
From: Wichita KS
Re: Routing brake lines (1979VetteMike)
1979VetteMike,
The project car in the book was a 1968 big block. I believe it was a 4 speed, which would indicate a welded transmission crossmember. Having the crossmember out is a real plus. The text isn't quite clear as to exactly what the installation problem is.
The project car in the book was a 1968 big block. I believe it was a 4 speed, which would indicate a welded transmission crossmember. Having the crossmember out is a real plus. The text isn't quite clear as to exactly what the installation problem is.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,668
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From: Eastern US XX
Re: Routing brake lines (1979VetteMike)
My son and I replaced all of the lines on my '69 with stainless lines and did NOT remove the body nor the crossmember. A little tricky in places, but it worked out real nicely.
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Re: Routing brake lines (1979VetteMike)
I replaced all the lines on my '68 4spd(non-removable crossmember) and my '75 L-82 automatic coupe(removable crossmember). You can do this without removing the body however I had to "CAREFULLY" and partially straighten out some of the bends, then "CAREFULLY" shape and bend the line as you route it up to the small brass junction block. Do this without kinking the line-be patient and take your time!!! Make sure too not to strip the threads out in brass block. This is a kinda tight area to wrench to begin with, so make sure you can start and turn in several times by hand the brake line flare end nut. :)
