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thanks sounds like a winner, i may need my shoulder at some point. i will start with the ground first and see how that works. i always wanted a gear reduction starter but was scared away because of the price and not being sure if the price justified the end results.
on that starter from a 96 chevy 1500 pick up. the question i have is about the flywheel does teeth count matter?
My opinion which that and $10 will get you a beer at the Trump Hotel in DC.
All FLAP starters are rebuilt junk that will fail at some point shortly down the road. Buy a Starter, Mini, Hi-Torque from Summit Racing and be one and done. Problem solved.
Its $47.29. That's the problem or will be in a few yrs.
Put a one in front of the 47 to get a decent starter.
Put a two in front of that 47 to get a really good starter.
Some people just enjoy buying seconds quality parts and installing them over & over & over.
If you cheap-out on starters, waterpumps, alternators and batteries, it will come back to haunt you soon and leave you stranded later.
Its $47.29. That's the problem or will be in a few yrs.
Put a one in front of the 47 to get a decent starter.
Put a two in front of that 47 to get a really good starter.
Some people just enjoy buying seconds quality parts and installing them over & over & over.
If you cheap-out on starters, waterpumps, alternators and batteries, it will come back to haunt you soon and leave you stranded later.
man all the time and effort wwent into this BS. i will buy a decent one this time out if i cant get this one to work properly
From: Loud, Raw and Dangerous 1968 327 4S in Southern California
Even if the starters are cheap imports having so many of them not work right does not lend itself to this being a starter issue. I'm with the wiring or ground issue crowd. Either that or there is a little black cloud following you around right above your head from pissing off one of the gods. Look up quickly and you may see it.
I skipped to the bottom, But I had the same problem and changed every thing on my rack about twice. Only started with starter cooled down.
I would have to push start it after all warmed up, so one day at the gas station (when it wouldn't start and I didn't want to push it) I took the water hose and cooled the starter and it started right up.
I changed battery cables, starters, you name it , trying to solve it and it was all the starter heating up. Had to shield it to make it better. Also there are 2 stock starters that will fit One has a longer armature.
Dom
I was experiencing Heat Soak starter syndrome as well.......so I got me a new high priced high torque starter made by PowerMaster.... still had the problem. Was scratching my head and was pretty sure it must be the Ground from frame to starter after reading similar posts like this one.
So....I bought a new Frame to ground starter cable from Top Flight and also filed the metal surfaces where the cable attaches. For good measure I also wrapped my starter while I was under there.
Problem solved...several test drives up to temperature over the past couple days ....shut down.....start engine....drive a while....shut down.....ect....and it starts every time now.....
I cut open my old Ground cable today just to make myself feel better and I'm glad I did......
Take a look at the corrosion on the ground cable! JEEEZZZZ... Glad I changed it out.
The batteries are prone to weeping acid they get under the rubber ring on the terminal and acid travels beneath the casing causing corrosion on the cable.
Not really sure if i have this problem solved it has rained just about evberyday since my inital post. i did however send the that Ebay starter back to the hell hole in climbed out of in China. I bucked up and bought the Summit Racing one for almost $200.00 also i changed the battery cable (negative engine ground). So far have not had any issues but we shall see. I cut open the cable for spits and giggles. it doesnt look terrible but is out of here regardless.
