Need help on 350hp distributor for engine with cam
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2020
Posts: 118
Likes: 15
From: Texas
Need help on 350hp distributor for engine with cam
I have rebuilt my engine and added a cam. The cam has chewed up the gear on my distributor (original distributor to engine) twice now. First time I completely rebuilt the distributor and switched to a brass gear after reading it eliminated the problem. The distributor also had a pertronix kit added to it and an MSD rev limiter (6000rpm). Also, I still have a manual tach.
I am past caring about the cost - I will install whatever - but I would greatly appreciate a recommendation.
I am past caring about the cost - I will install whatever - but I would greatly appreciate a recommendation.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2020
Posts: 118
Likes: 15
From: Texas
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 5,031
Likes: 1,121
From: North tonawanda NY
So I recently went to a roller cam in my engine... even though I ground the cam button for enough endplay, I found when I installed my water pump it pushed in on my aluminum timing cover and eliminated the gap between the cam button and cover as well as pushed the cam gear against the distributor gear which started to damage my gear until I removed the nylon cam button and ground it down further. of course my cam is ductile iron and my dist gear is steel so...
Last edited by augiedoggy; Jun 5, 2021 at 11:14 PM.
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 13,082
Likes: 3,399
From: SW Florida.
brass gear is to protect the cam gear in a race engine. not for street use. the orig points distributor and the large cap HEI both take a .491 diameter cam gear. gear can be found 5 to 100 bucks. a bunch of these on ebay 55 to 100 bucks. virtually all say hardened steel or chromoly gear. https://www.ebay.com/itm/38080549917...gAAOSwIC1ZvCkX
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2020
Posts: 1,567
Likes: 577
From: Wisconsin
brass gear is to protect the cam gear in a race engine. not for street use. the orig points distributor and the large cap HEI both take a .491 diameter cam gear. gear can be found 5 to 100 bucks. a bunch of these on ebay 55 to 100 bucks. virtually all say hardened steel or chromoly gear. https://www.ebay.com/itm/38080549917...gAAOSwIC1ZvCkX
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Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 5,031
Likes: 1,121
From: North tonawanda NY
Yeah as others have pointed out you can't run a steel gear with a steel cam they have to be different materials. melonized or even composite gear would be better.. From what I've read brass wears out quickly... Even the brass tipped fuel rods have a limited lifespan on a street motor..(your fuel rod is another thing that may need to be addressed with the steel cam)
Last edited by augiedoggy; Jun 6, 2021 at 09:14 AM.
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Youngstown Ohio
Had a 1976 L-82, 4-sp
Joined: Mar 2011
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From: Some days your the dog and some days your the hydrant.
Royal Canadian Navy
I've had my composite gear now for several years. I also have the composite fuel pump rod. No issues with either one. Got them from Howards Cams.
Last edited by resdoggie; Jun 6, 2021 at 03:37 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 6,284
Likes: 1,171
From: Hermosa
A forum member here had the composite gear shear it's teeth off in use. The teeth are in shear vs the pump rod which is in compression.
So for the rod I'd say yes, and it's what I use myself after trying the brass tipped and having it start to mushroom in very short order.
The Gear...I don't know, not as comfortable running that just due to the shear action on it. So I personally run the melonized gear.
So for the rod I'd say yes, and it's what I use myself after trying the brass tipped and having it start to mushroom in very short order.
The Gear...I don't know, not as comfortable running that just due to the shear action on it. So I personally run the melonized gear.
Had a 1976 L-82, 4-sp
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 5,338
Likes: 1,213
From: Some days your the dog and some days your the hydrant.
Royal Canadian Navy
I think gkull uses a composite gear. Maybe he'll chime in with his experience. I had my dist'r out over the winter and there was virtually no sign of any wear after several thousand of miles using a Howards HR retro cam.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2020
Posts: 118
Likes: 15
From: Texas
The composite gear works for any cam, and will last. Costly, but the last one you will ever buy. This.......https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-12200
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2020
Posts: 118
Likes: 15
From: Texas
A forum member here had the composite gear shear it's teeth off in use. The teeth are in shear vs the pump rod which is in compression.
So for the rod I'd say yes, and it's what I use myself after trying the brass tipped and having it start to mushroom in very short order.
The Gear...I don't know, not as comfortable running that just due to the shear action on it. So I personally run the melonized gear.
So for the rod I'd say yes, and it's what I use myself after trying the brass tipped and having it start to mushroom in very short order.
The Gear...I don't know, not as comfortable running that just due to the shear action on it. So I personally run the melonized gear.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2020
Posts: 118
Likes: 15
From: Texas
Yeah as others have pointed out you can't run a steel gear with a steel cam they have to be different materials. melonized or even composite gear would be better.. From what I've read brass wears out quickly... Even the brass tipped fuel rods have a limited lifespan on a street motor..(your fuel rod is another thing that may need to be addressed with the steel cam)
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2020
Posts: 118
Likes: 15
From: Texas
Oil pump is stock and the tac gear is fine. On the drag on distributor question - I dont know. Not a good answer