Pre-Carpet
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 275
Likes: 0
From: Valdosta GA
Pre-Carpet
I have been told that POR is great stuff to put down before the carpet goes down. My question is: is there anything that will work as good but is cheaper? I don't mind spending the money, it's just that I don't like to throw good money away just for the name of a product. :flag
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 9,662
Likes: 7
From: Semper ubi, sub ubi
Cruise-In VI Veteran
Cruise-In VII Veteran
Re: Pre-Carpet (greatgonzoglenn)
You get what you pay for, a number of years ago before I'd ever heard of POR15, I tried treating the floor pans of 1949 Packard, with Ospho, which I then covered with Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer. The rust came back in a matter of months.
The only other product I know of that is supposed to be in the same league as POR15 is Eastwood's Corrless (which I don't think they sell anymore), and it is as expensive as POR15. Eastwood's does sell a matt black paint called rust encapsulator that is $25.00 a quart. I guess it has replaced Corrless (which was primer red/brown) with this black stuff.
The only other product I know of that is supposed to be in the same league as POR15 is Eastwood's Corrless (which I don't think they sell anymore), and it is as expensive as POR15. Eastwood's does sell a matt black paint called rust encapsulator that is $25.00 a quart. I guess it has replaced Corrless (which was primer red/brown) with this black stuff.
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 3,530
Likes: 0
From: Lake Wylie SC
Re: Pre-Carpet (greatgonzoglenn)
I'm big fan of POR products. However, POR-15 doesn't do much good over a painted surface. If you are going to use in on the floor (and I assume you have a steel floor), you should remove all the paint/coating from the current floor. POR-15 needs a bare metal or rusty metal to adhere to.
As for cost, the cheapest I have ever found it was directly from the company. Also, to do a floor in a vette, you shouldn't need more than what comes in the $10 trial kit. Once you use it, though, you'll get addicted and start buying it by the quart or the gallon. A quart did the entire underside and engine compartment of my '74 Vega which I stripped to bare metal. I've hit it with a hammer without chipping it. I've also taken a grinder to it and it takes several passes to remove it, not like normal paint at all.
Brian
As for cost, the cheapest I have ever found it was directly from the company. Also, to do a floor in a vette, you shouldn't need more than what comes in the $10 trial kit. Once you use it, though, you'll get addicted and start buying it by the quart or the gallon. A quart did the entire underside and engine compartment of my '74 Vega which I stripped to bare metal. I've hit it with a hammer without chipping it. I've also taken a grinder to it and it takes several passes to remove it, not like normal paint at all.
Brian
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 275
Likes: 0
From: Valdosta GA
Re: Pre-Carpet (greatgonzoglenn)
Thank You all, I'm not cheap and I do want to do a good job. Looks like I will be buying the POR15 and doing it right. If anybody has any advice as to the "easiest" and safest way to take off the floor paint, I sure would appreciate it. :flag
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 3,530
Likes: 0
From: Lake Wylie SC
Re: Pre-Carpet (greatgonzoglenn)
The best and easiest stuff I've used is "Aircraft Stripper" sold at Wal-Mart. I've tried the more expensive stuff from the paint houses, but this works just as good. Get it in the spray can, it's easier to apply. HOWEVER, it will knock you clean out if you breath too much of it. I STRONGLY suggest wearing a respirator with any kind of stripper, and especially with POR products. POR products are cianite based (cianate, cianite, whichever). Be sure to be in a well ventilated area, that seems to work best.
Once you have the paint off, you can use POR's metal-prep. That creates a better adhesion surface. however, I've used sulfuric acid (Muriatic acid) as well. Like the others, muriatic acid can knock you out (kind of a them going here). The muriatic acid, or metal-prep, will turn the surface kind of white in color. I'm not sure about metal-prep, but you should wash the muriatic acid surface with clean water, dry, and then coat with POR-15 right away. Letting the muriatic acid sit too long will corrode the metal. Or, not washing it before putting the POR-15 on will not form the best surface and then you'll have little rust spots pop through the POR-15 in a couple days.
As you can tell, I've done this a few times :crazy:
Once you have the paint off, you can use POR's metal-prep. That creates a better adhesion surface. however, I've used sulfuric acid (Muriatic acid) as well. Like the others, muriatic acid can knock you out (kind of a them going here). The muriatic acid, or metal-prep, will turn the surface kind of white in color. I'm not sure about metal-prep, but you should wash the muriatic acid surface with clean water, dry, and then coat with POR-15 right away. Letting the muriatic acid sit too long will corrode the metal. Or, not washing it before putting the POR-15 on will not form the best surface and then you'll have little rust spots pop through the POR-15 in a couple days.
As you can tell, I've done this a few times :crazy:
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 1,339
Likes: 0
From: Hampton Georgia
Re: Pre-Carpet (Bacchus)
Eastwoods corroless just changed names to Rust Encapsulator.I use it alot ,and it works well.You only need to put something on your metal floor pans .Leave the rest of it bare.One thing I also like to do is before you install the carpet paint the inside of the rear compartments with something .It makes it look nicer when it goes back together. :yesnod:
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 3,000
Likes: 22
From: Boulder Creek California
Re: Pre-Carpet (Bacchus)
I'm completely stripping and reinstalling front and back carpet this next weekend, are glass floorboards a completely different matter, do I need to paint at all? There are several layers under there already, so I'm guessing I do. Any info would be cool, assume you're talking to a beginner...because you are!
-Chris
-Chris
