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I rebuilt my master cylinder on my 1970 coupe (not power brakes). I thought as long as I was at it, I would replace the lines running form the M/C to the distribution block. I ordered nice stainless ones from Inline tube. Now, after taking the old lines out, I'm not seeing how these new ones will line up properly so that they will connect to the master cylinder? So then I held them next to each other and they aren't quite the same...close...but not the same. So I'm wondering if possibly a previous owner modified/changed the bracket and the distribution block is mounted a little different? I really don't feel like having to bend the new stainless lines as I've hard that's really a bummer. So maybe I'll just put the old lines back in for now? Can anyone show me a picture of your distribution block and mounting bracket so that I can compare to mine? Thanks!
Mine (1972 w/PB) looks the same as your, and the parts catalogs list 1970 to 1973 as identical, regardless of PB or not. My mounting/placement is the same as yours, too.
The brake lines are different between PB and standard brakes. Is it possible that the lines that you have are not correct for the car?
Thanks Larry - I just double-checked the lines. The part numbers on them and the website I purchased from, and they say "std" brakes and one says not power. So they think they are right. The lines are kinda close, but just seem too far off. I wonder if my bracket is bent one way or another and that would throw angles off?
Although my car does have power brakes, the distribution block and bracket are the same. Here’s a pic of mine. All stainless lines from Inline Tube. I had no problems with my installation but I am not surprised at all by your situation. Don’t be afraid to “tweak” them but also don’t try to make any substantial movements. Use a piece of wood to “persuade” the lines. Once you have them “adjusted”, they should hand thread all the way in (without “pulling” the line in).
The rear line does look longer. I guessing you assemble the lines finger-tight or until you tweak both lines a little at a time so you can finger-tighten them.
Br sure to buy a correct size brake-fitting wrench.
WHATEVER you do....do not get in a hurry and cross-thread the fittings.
Last edited by doorgunner; Jun 11, 2021 at 08:16 PM.
Thanks Larry - I just double-checked the lines. The part numbers on them and the website I purchased from, and they say "std" brakes and one says not power. So they think they are right. The lines are kinda close, but just seem too far off. I wonder if my bracket is bent one way or another and that would throw angles off?
Have you talk talked to In-Line Tube? Send them a picture of the originals and the ones they sent you...assuming the picture will show the difference. Show them a picture of the originals installed and then a picture of their line showing the difference of the misfit. I've found In-Line Tube to be very helpful on more than one occassion.
If worse comes to worse, you can send them the original, they can laser scan it and duplicate it. I've done this twice,.....they don't charge very much for this service...assuming they'd charge you for it.
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How to make custom, double flared ss brake lines at home. Make you brake lines in copper tubing. Double flare them with the appropriate fittings. Copper is nice and easy to bend and custom bend it around contouors. Double flaring is easy. Then send your custom copper brake lines to In-Line. They'll scan them and return them in double flared SS subing. Have the fittings in SS also.
I was wrong - I purchased these from zip, my other lines were from Inline. I got them finger tight to the valve block, one of them is relatively close, but look how far off the other one is. How can this be?
That's easily fixed, and the spring assembly your holding in the pic will help the tubing hold it's shape. Jus slide that springy stuff right up to the nut, and then persuade it into the shape you need by hand....keep the one end attached to the block, and little by little it will get there.
I was wrong - I purchased these from zip, my other lines were from Inline. I got them finger tight to the valve block, one of them is relatively close, but look how far off the other one is. How can this be?
I bought both my lines (standard steel - not stainless) from ZIP, power brks, and they were a very good match, although they were 'off' by a very tiny amount, and wouldn't thread into the master cylinder while the cyl was mounted on the booster. I took the MC off and held it 'in place' which gave me the flexibility to start both lines and then remount the MC. No problems.
By any chance, is the line that's giving you problems upside down? How is the fit if you reverse it?
Brake distribution block bracket
