73 Headlights
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Dec 2020
Posts: 277
Likes: 57
From: Va.
73 Headlights
okay headlight warriors. I rebuilt one of my actuators and the other one works fine. They close perfect and flush with car. When I turn them on and they rise, one is about a quarter inch lower than the other. I can even push up to lock it in place and its still a quarter lower than being flush with the opening. Looking at the driver side light from underneath, I notice on the right side a flat head screw that is on some sort of arm that hits the headlight frame when I push the whole headlight assembly up to where it needs to be. Is this screw my problem? Seems if I were to turn that screw inward enough it would allow the light to go farther up and be flush as is should when fully open. As of today I could not budge that screw even being soaked in some blaster. And its a pain in the *** to get to. Any ideas?
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Dec 2020
Posts: 277
Likes: 57
From: Va.
Yes that is the one. It wont budge as of yesterday and I really cant get a good grip on it either. ha ha.. And its not like the one pictured. I need a flat head screwdriver to turn it
Last edited by 7T3stinger; Jun 14, 2021 at 07:15 AM.
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 4,548
Likes: 5,148
From: Chester VA
To get at that bolt, it's a fairly simple process.
Remove the four headlight bezel screws (1 on each side, 1 each top and bottom in the center). Pay attention to the threads. If they're the original screws in their original holes, you'll see different that they're different. Don't mix them up.
Use masking tape to cover the edges of the headlight opening on the front panel so you don't scratch any paint when removing the bezel. In your case, I hate to say it, but you're at a bit of a disadvantage since your headlight sits a bit lower, which will make it a little more challenging to remove the bezel from the headlight assembly. The further up the assembly is, the easier it is to remove the bezel. In any event, when you use masking tape, there's no need to use any that has the most aggressive adhesive - you don't want to pull off any paint when the tape comes off.
With the bezel off you have easy access to the two bolts (# 2 in the diagram) that hold the arm/stop (# 7) in place. Remove the bolts, the arm comes out, and you have easy access to work on that pesky bolt # 5. Once it's freed up, you can clean and lube the threads for easy adjustment.
And after you do that side, I'll bet you'll be itching to do the same on the other side. Just because.
Good luck! Let us know how it works!
Larry
Remove the four headlight bezel screws (1 on each side, 1 each top and bottom in the center). Pay attention to the threads. If they're the original screws in their original holes, you'll see different that they're different. Don't mix them up.
Use masking tape to cover the edges of the headlight opening on the front panel so you don't scratch any paint when removing the bezel. In your case, I hate to say it, but you're at a bit of a disadvantage since your headlight sits a bit lower, which will make it a little more challenging to remove the bezel from the headlight assembly. The further up the assembly is, the easier it is to remove the bezel. In any event, when you use masking tape, there's no need to use any that has the most aggressive adhesive - you don't want to pull off any paint when the tape comes off.
With the bezel off you have easy access to the two bolts (# 2 in the diagram) that hold the arm/stop (# 7) in place. Remove the bolts, the arm comes out, and you have easy access to work on that pesky bolt # 5. Once it's freed up, you can clean and lube the threads for easy adjustment.
And after you do that side, I'll bet you'll be itching to do the same on the other side. Just because.
Good luck! Let us know how it works!
Larry
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Dec 2020
Posts: 277
Likes: 57
From: Va.
To get at that bolt, it's a fairly simple process.
Remove the four headlight bezel screws (1 on each side, 1 each top and bottom in the center). Pay attention to the threads. If they're the original screws in their original holes, you'll see different that they're different. Don't mix them up.
Use masking tape to cover the edges of the headlight opening on the front panel so you don't scratch any paint when removing the bezel. In your case, I hate to say it, but you're at a bit of a disadvantage since your headlight sits a bit lower, which will make it a little more challenging to remove the bezel from the headlight assembly. The further up the assembly is, the easier it is to remove the bezel. In any event, when you use masking tape, there's no need to use any that has the most aggressive adhesive - you don't want to pull off any paint when the tape comes off.
With the bezel off you have easy access to the two bolts (# 2 in the diagram) that hold the arm/stop (# 7) in place. Remove the bolts, the arm comes out, and you have easy access to work on that pesky bolt # 5. Once it's freed up, you can clean and lube the threads for easy adjustment.
And after you do that side, I'll bet you'll be itching to do the same on the other side. Just because.
Good luck! Let us know how it works!
Larry
Remove the four headlight bezel screws (1 on each side, 1 each top and bottom in the center). Pay attention to the threads. If they're the original screws in their original holes, you'll see different that they're different. Don't mix them up.
Use masking tape to cover the edges of the headlight opening on the front panel so you don't scratch any paint when removing the bezel. In your case, I hate to say it, but you're at a bit of a disadvantage since your headlight sits a bit lower, which will make it a little more challenging to remove the bezel from the headlight assembly. The further up the assembly is, the easier it is to remove the bezel. In any event, when you use masking tape, there's no need to use any that has the most aggressive adhesive - you don't want to pull off any paint when the tape comes off.
With the bezel off you have easy access to the two bolts (# 2 in the diagram) that hold the arm/stop (# 7) in place. Remove the bolts, the arm comes out, and you have easy access to work on that pesky bolt # 5. Once it's freed up, you can clean and lube the threads for easy adjustment.
And after you do that side, I'll bet you'll be itching to do the same on the other side. Just because.
Good luck! Let us know how it works!
Larry
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 4,548
Likes: 5,148
From: Chester VA
Happy to help.
If you replace the slotted screw with a 1/4"-20 bolt of the appropriate length you'll have an easy time if any future adjustments are needed. And if there's not one there already, add a 1/4"-20 jam nut to lock the adjustment in place.
And watch out for your paint!
If you replace the slotted screw with a 1/4"-20 bolt of the appropriate length you'll have an easy time if any future adjustments are needed. And if there's not one there already, add a 1/4"-20 jam nut to lock the adjustment in place.
And watch out for your paint!
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Dec 2020
Posts: 277
Likes: 57
From: Va.
Happy to help.
If you replace the slotted screw with a 1/4"-20 bolt of the appropriate length you'll have an easy time if any future adjustments are needed. And if there's not one there already, add a 1/4"-20 jam nut to lock the adjustment in place.
And watch out for your paint!
If you replace the slotted screw with a 1/4"-20 bolt of the appropriate length you'll have an easy time if any future adjustments are needed. And if there's not one there already, add a 1/4"-20 jam nut to lock the adjustment in place.
And watch out for your paint!
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 4,548
Likes: 5,148
From: Chester VA
Leaks anywhere in the system will cause a soft pedal. A year ago when you installed the new mast cyl and calipers (just 1, or all 4?), did you have a hard pedal after bleeding?
Kind of strange to hear that a caliper will leak every once in a while - in my experience, they've been good, until they're not, and then they don't get well again, they get replaced. Which has always been well after a year.
Caliper leaks are easy to see. With the wheel off, shine a light down through the top and look for wet pistons pushing against the pads. Wet is bad; dry is good. If they're leaking, not only are you losing fluid, but most likely your calipers are sucking in air past the seals when you take your foot off the brake.
Also, do you know whether or not your rotors are warped (even just a tiny bit). Warped rotors can cause the calipers to suck air.
I don't think I have a definitive answer to your question - you have a lot of places to check (including the hose-to-caliper and hose-to-brake line connections). But if you can find visual evidence of a fluid leak anywhere, you know where to start.
Kind of strange to hear that a caliper will leak every once in a while - in my experience, they've been good, until they're not
, and then they don't get well again, they get replaced. Which has always been well after a year.Caliper leaks are easy to see. With the wheel off, shine a light down through the top and look for wet pistons pushing against the pads. Wet is bad; dry is good. If they're leaking, not only are you losing fluid, but most likely your calipers are sucking in air past the seals when you take your foot off the brake.
Also, do you know whether or not your rotors are warped (even just a tiny bit). Warped rotors can cause the calipers to suck air.
I don't think I have a definitive answer to your question - you have a lot of places to check (including the hose-to-caliper and hose-to-brake line connections). But if you can find visual evidence of a fluid leak anywhere, you know where to start.
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Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Dec 2020
Posts: 277
Likes: 57
From: Va.
Leaks anywhere in the system will cause a soft pedal. A year ago when you installed the new mast cyl and calipers (just 1, or all 4?), did you have a hard pedal after bleeding?
Kind of strange to hear that a caliper will leak every once in a while - in my experience, they've been good, until they're not, and then they don't get well again, they get replaced. Which has always been well after a year.
Caliper leaks are easy to see. With the wheel off, shine a light down through the top and look for wet pistons pushing against the pads. Wet is bad; dry is good. If they're leaking, not only are you losing fluid, but most likely your calipers are sucking in air past the seals when you take your foot off the brake.
Also, do you know whether or not your rotors are warped (even just a tiny bit). Warped rotors can cause the calipers to suck air.
I don't think I have a definitive answer to your question - you have a lot of places to check (including the hose-to-caliper and hose-to-brake line connections). But if you can find visual evidence of a fluid leak anywhere, you know where to start.
Kind of strange to hear that a caliper will leak every once in a while - in my experience, they've been good, until they're not
, and then they don't get well again, they get replaced. Which has always been well after a year.Caliper leaks are easy to see. With the wheel off, shine a light down through the top and look for wet pistons pushing against the pads. Wet is bad; dry is good. If they're leaking, not only are you losing fluid, but most likely your calipers are sucking in air past the seals when you take your foot off the brake.
Also, do you know whether or not your rotors are warped (even just a tiny bit). Warped rotors can cause the calipers to suck air.
I don't think I have a definitive answer to your question - you have a lot of places to check (including the hose-to-caliper and hose-to-brake line connections). But if you can find visual evidence of a fluid leak anywhere, you know where to start.
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 4,548
Likes: 5,148
From: Chester VA
Wow. Totally stumped on that. No ideas, not even a wild-a$$ guess. But I'll bet a number of others on the forum can help. Start a new thread with 'odd caliper leaks' or something similar as the title, and spell out the whole story. Someone will have an answer. Good luck!
Where in VA do you live?
Where in VA do you live?
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Dec 2020
Posts: 277
Likes: 57
From: Va.
Wow. Totally stumped on that. No ideas, not even a wild-a$$ guess. But I'll bet a number of others on the forum can help. Start a new thread with 'odd caliper leaks' or something similar as the title, and spell out the whole story. Someone will have an answer. Good luck!
Where in VA do you live?
Where in VA do you live?
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Dec 2020
Posts: 277
Likes: 57
From: Va.
Happy to help.
If you replace the slotted screw with a 1/4"-20 bolt of the appropriate length you'll have an easy time if any future adjustments are needed. And if there's not one there already, add a 1/4"-20 jam nut to lock the adjustment in place.
And watch out for your paint!
If you replace the slotted screw with a 1/4"-20 bolt of the appropriate length you'll have an easy time if any future adjustments are needed. And if there's not one there already, add a 1/4"-20 jam nut to lock the adjustment in place.
And watch out for your paint!
