Brad,

Gotcha! Thanks for the heads up! :cheers:

-Pedro

 

Sorry for the dumb question, but:

If you use the chain method, how do you retrieve the chain?

 

Open field + highpower rifle with scope = free chain :yesnod:

Actually I was wondering the same thing myself...

 

For those that want to re-use the same ball joints -- don't use a pickle fork to separate the joint from the spindle.

I just use a pitman arm or tie rod end puller. It has 2 jaws that hook over a side of the spindle, and a bolt that you tighten to press out the end of the ball joint.

A couple turns and "POP" -- the joint is opened up.

I don't use a spring compressor or a chain, I have a jack under the lower control arm with about 1" of clearance while I pop the ball joint. Leave the castle nut on there a few turns to make sure that the lower control arm doesn't drop out far enough to slam into the jack and knock it over. Once the joint is popped, jack up the lower control arm a teeny bit, remove the castle nut and very slowly lower the jack.

 

I obviously haven't done this job yet, but as I understand it, the chain is just for safety reasons---to keep the spring from flying at you---and not to keep the spring compressed or something like that. Others please correct me if I'm wrong...

:chevy
-Pedro

 

Yep -- that's it completely -- you can use the chain through the upper coils and chain the spring to the car.

Give up on the compressor -- they suck and will just **** you off. Go with the chain if you are worried it will become a missile.

 

Thanks, Bryan!

I'll definitely use a chain, 'coz this sort of job scares the hell out of me!

:cheers:
-Pedro

 

Yup. There's LOTS of energy stored in that spring. Keeping it from launching at you or something else is a good thing. If the jack slips, or something like that happens, you don't want that energy directed at you.

 

I did my 71 coupe's front end in much the same way as Norval ... but my motor was out ... auto trans was in ... supported by 9 jackstands (3 js /side, 1 js at f & r, 1 js under trans) ... car did not lift off stands. I'd planned to replace all tr ends, bj's, springs, ca bushings, idler arm ... and did so. I didn't use a chain or compressor ... did it like Norval and no flying/jumping springs. First thing I did was remove & wire-hang calipers. Then I broke all taper joints loose w/ pickle fork & BFH ... like Norval w/ half-thread & nut stays on ... kept everything connected, but loosened. Then I removed lower ball joint nut & put floor jack under ca and unloaded spring ... then I removed upper bj nut .... then slowly lowered floor jack ... then removed tie rod& nut from spindle ... then lifted spindle & rotor out ... spring had easily fallen loose (it hadn't jumped or flown) ... and I lifted it out. I then removed ca's & rebushed them (hogged out old rubber from shells w/ a hole saw and simply slid in the new poly ones w/ fingers). Replaced everything pretty much in reverse of removal. My new springs were a bit shorter but stronger than the old ones ... had some difficulty getting them aligned in towers but after a few tries OK. Again, w/ motor out but trans in car and sitting on 9 jackstands the car did not rise off stands. If you use a pickle fork to separate a bj / tr end (that's been attached for many years/miles) ... it'll likely damage it ... so plan on replacing them. I got a deluxe, complete poly front end kit from Van Steel about a year& 1/2 ago for about $200. I got new springs elsewhere for about $50-$60/pr. I used a $7 holesaw & pocketknife to hog out the rubber ca bushings and a crowbar to persuade new springs into submission ... no chain, no spring compressor ... simply a floorjack. I did mine all by my lonesome. Not counting painting, this job can be done in a day ... took me two. It's a tough dirty job & the neighbors kids'll learn lotsa new phrases. I'm no youngster ... ached for days afterward. G'luck!

 

Thanks for confirming that, Dave, and Jack, thanks for the tips!

I'm making slow progress here, but I'm not ready yet to tackle the spring removal.

:chevy
-Pedro

 

One more thing you may want to look at. There is a pretty good write up of front suspension removal in the tech section. Go to the "Tools" section at the top of the page, then tech tips.

 

Thanks, Brad! I've already printed the article.

:cheers:
-Pedro

 

OK guys, mission accomplished, with no incidents! :chevy

I used a safety chain and no spring compressor. The springs were kinda "welded" to the lower control arms by rust and dirt, so when I removed the jack and tried to remove the springs they went "boing", which scared me a little bit--but nothing serious happened.

Thank you all very much for the help!

:cheers:
-Pedro

 

:thumbs: :thumbs:

Just remember when you replace with the new, make sure to spin them and align them in the detent in the top A-arm.

:cheers:

 

Thanks, Dick!

BTW, the old springs are in the trash. That's the correct place for them, right? Or would there be anyone interested in original 29 years old springs? :)

:cheers:
-Pedro

 

Good job there Pedro, now did you paint everything nice,nice? :cheers:
Gary

 

Hi Gary,

I'm trying to clean and paint the parts as I remove them, and then I'll wire brush and paint the front half of the frame (rear was done 2 years ago). Now, the control arms are extremely funky, and I think I'll have to put them in trash bags and take them to a car wash, for a first wash. I'm sure I'll have enough work for the whole Winter... :D

:cheers:
-Pedro


[Modified by Pedro'74, 7:41 PM 12/21/2002]

 

I found the Metal Ready cleans them up pretty good after you get the dirt and grease off. I just got back some pictures of the lastest work if you want I can email them to you - providing I get this scanner to work!
Gary

 

Gary,

Did you wire brush or sandblast them at all? I'd like to see the pics; whenever you have time...

Thanks!
-Pedro

teixeirp@union.edu

 

OK Pedro I'll get them to you in a couple of days. Once I get through the hectic holidasy rush :D