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I want to eliminate clock but not pull dash apart for every item is new and just do not need any new problems. Where is the feed wire that feeds just the clock. There is so much spaghetti under dash!
If you pull the fuse for the clock, other items on that circuit will be disabled (depends on the year of your car). On my 73 the wires going to the gauge cluster are in a wrapped bundle, so you would have to “TEAR” into the harness, find the correct color, and then to be safe insulate the cut end. There is very slack in the harness and you would be working under the drivers side dash, UGH! I think disconnecting the plastic power pug on the back of the clock would be easier, and thus avoid dealing with OLD/BRITTLE Plastic Coated Wires.
If you pull the fuse for the clock, other items on that circuit will be disabled (depends on the year of your car). On my 73 the wires going to the gauge cluster are in a wrapped bundle, so you would have to “TEAR” into the harness, find the correct color, and then to be safe insulate the cut end. There is very slack in the harness and you would be working under the drivers side dash, UGH! I think disconnecting the plastic power pug on the back of the clock would be easier, and thus avoid dealing with OLD/BRITTLE Plastic Coated Wires.
If Fake would just download ALL free pages of the 1977 Corvette Electrical Troubleshooting Manual it would be clear as day to a electrical contactor what's on that same circuit.
Have down loaded there are many items on that circuit and there is a terminal board some where under dash that feeds that clock . It says #140 is the direct feed with a 10 guage wire but were they buried it i am still looking. As far as the clock it ran for 30 plus years with a two amp load when rewinding. So may be i will go quartz. This is all because of a parasite voltage.but i thought i found it with the coil for the alarm hot as a fire cracker. Disarmed by placing key in door and going opposite of my owners manual which was not revised because there was no supplement in it..This why i bought a kill switch from NAPA to eliminare any fire! The clock i wanted to remove power because it only does sixty seconds and then boots up to a large draw on the battery. Thanks for all your input!
Circuit #140 is the CLK/LTR/CTSY.. S140 is the main dash harness slice (S=SPLICE) feeding courtesy lights, lighter & and clock.
What a nightmare unwrapping that mess just to remove clock PCB board feed.
Why not pull the passenger side map pocket assembly, reach in un-clip the black 12 wire PCB board connector.
There should be enough slack in that harness length so you can work removing just the orange wire and terminal from connector housing from that now open space.
Tape off the now removed copper spring terminal so it wont short out.
Last edited by bmotojoe; Jun 25, 2021 at 09:53 PM.
Have down loaded there are many items on that circuit and there is a terminal board some where under dash that feeds that clock . It says #140 is the direct feed with a 10 guage wire but were they buried it i am still looking. As far as the clock it ran for 30 plus years with a two amp load when rewinding. So may be i will go quartz. This is all because of a parasite voltage.but i thought i found it with the coil for the alarm hot as a fire cracker. Disarmed by placing key in door and going opposite of my owners manual which was not revised because there was no supplement in it..This why i bought a kill switch from NAPA to eliminare any fire! The clock i wanted to remove power because it only does sixty seconds and then boots up to a large draw on the battery. Thanks for all your input!
2 amp load you say? My car sits for months during the winter and normally starts fine without a jump. I would have thought 2 amps would drain the battery in about 50 hours.. My clocks broken now but still has power. I bought a quartz replacement to install
Last edited by augiedoggy; Jun 26, 2021 at 12:43 AM.
Cutting power to clock
