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Hope all are safe. Strange problem just started. The engine will not start. I tested the spark plug by putting spark plug in spark plug wire, grounding the metal of spark plug to engine. Very low spark, sometimes no spark. I installed a new coil and ignition control module, cap and rotor but same thing. I tested the positive wire to the distributor with multimeter and got 12 volts and when the engine is cranking 9 volts.What else could it be? Does the distributer need to be replaced? Any thoughts are greatly appreciated.
From: I tend to be leery of any guy who doesn't own a chainsaw or a handgun.
Originally Posted by rodney25
Hello All,
Hope all are safe. Strange problem just started. The engine will not start. I tested the spark plug by putting spark plug in spark plug wire, grounding the metal of spark plug to engine. Very low spark, sometimes no spark. I installed a new coil and ignition control module, cap and rotor but same thing. I tested the positive wire to the distributor with multimeter and got 12 volts and when the engine is cranking 9 volts.What else could it be? Does the distributer need to be replaced? Any thoughts are greatly appreciated.
Thanks
What year car is it? Is the distributor an original piece or a replacement installed by someone?
Try taking an ohms reading for the pick up. It should be about 750-1500 ohms. Also check the pickup leads where they go into the pick up. Sometimes the leads fall apart from the vacuum advance flexing them.
Try taking an ohms reading for the pick up. It should be about 750-1500 ohms. Also check the pickup leads where they go into the pick up. Sometimes the leads fall apart from the vacuum advance flexing them.
x2 yup, also those same fine pickup wires may rub on side of housing, wear thru insulation, ground out. Pickup's cheap to replace but gotta pull dist and its gear off and pull shaft out in order to reach pickup. Set everything at TDC #1 first, then pull dist.
1. Repeat the test using a different plug wire - I know a bad plug wire is unlikley as the car isn't starting - but it's a cheap and fast test.
2. Check that the Module is properly grounded. We always worry about the V+ side - but all of with later model Vettes (should) have come to realize that grounds are typically a lot more problematic than power supply wires. You can check for grounding quickly by running a jumper from the control module ground to the batt neg terminal or to something like the alternator case.
If neither of the above look to help - you have a couple of options. You can try to replace the Ignition Module again. There are a number of stories on CF about brand new modules being bad. Or you can try to replace the entire distributor - and see if that resolves the problem. Full up HEI distributors are available through number of sources for pretty reasonable prices.
It's a stock 1975. I upgraded the motor with a standard 350 from BluePrint.Was told that when cranking the voltage to the battery will drop down to 9 and that was normal. Installed a third Module & grounded but same issue.
Can anyone explain how to takei ohms reading for the pick up, and where the pickup is located?
It's a stock 1975. I upgraded the motor with a standard 350 from BluePrint.Was told that when cranking the voltage to the battery will drop down to 9 and that was normal. Installed a third Module & grounded but same issue.
Can anyone explain how to takei ohms reading for the pick up, and where the pickup is located?
Thanks
what is the voltage at the battery when cranking?
did you check the S terminal on the starter solenoid?
pickup is below the weights & springs ... has "teeth" & two fine wires. To R&R it, You MUST remove dist from motor and pull gear off shaft, then pull shaft from housing.
you can take an ohm reading with it in place ... unplug it from module and probe the two fine wires (after 46 years, its white wire is now probably yellowish-brownish)
From: I tend to be leery of any guy who doesn't own a chainsaw or a handgun.
Originally Posted by MelWff
Since you have a 75 it is a factory HEI and requires full battery voltage, 12+ volts.
Why do you have only 9 volts when cranking?
A factory HEI module is designed to work down to 6v. If there's an aftermarket module in it now, then it's anyones guess what it does at anything less than 12v.
Could he not eliminate the voltage as an issue by isolating the dizzy to a 2nd known good battery to ensure 12v at cranking? Make sure connection can be easily disconnected to shut down the motor.
Never tried it, so proceed with caution.
Could he not eliminate the voltage as an issue by isolating the dizzy to a 2nd known good battery to ensure 12v at cranking? Make sure connection can be easily disconnected to shut down the motor.
Never tried it, so proceed with caution.
Sure. But if the starter is cranking at normal speed, I'm not concerned about the 9 volts.
Ok found the issue. Did all posted and still would not start. Got a new distributer and still nothing. I took carb cleaner and put a 1 sec spray into #2 chamber and its wanted to start. Then pumped the gas pedal 8 times and it almost started. Think the fuel pump is not pumping enough pressure to the carb. When I look down the carb the jet spray is not strong and the more you pump the weaker the spray gets until almost nothing. Why do you think?
Ok found the issue. Did all posted and still would not start. Got a new distributer and still nothing. I took carb cleaner and put a 1 sec spray into #2 chamber and its wanted to start. Then pumped the gas pedal 8 times and it almost started. Think the fuel pump is not pumping enough pressure to the carb. When I look down the carb the jet spray is not strong and the more you pump the weaker the spray gets until almost nothing. Why do you think?
Disconnect the fuel inlet line to the carb. Place a rag around it. Crank the engine for a couple of seconds. If there's fuel in the rag, your pump is good. If not, then it's the pump. If you do have fuel, then it's the accelerator pump cup in the carb. They don't do well with ethanol fuels.