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Low Spark HEI Distributer

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Old Jul 20, 2021 | 05:02 PM
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Default Low Spark HEI Distributer

Hello All,

Hope all are safe. Strange problem just started. The engine will not start. I tested the spark plug by putting spark plug in spark plug wire, grounding the metal of spark plug to engine. Very low spark, sometimes no spark. I installed a new coil and ignition control module, cap and rotor but same thing. I tested the positive wire to the distributor with multimeter and got 12 volts and when the engine is cranking 9 volts.What else could it be? Does the distributer need to be replaced? Any thoughts are greatly appreciated.

Thanks
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Old Jul 21, 2021 | 03:18 PM
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Is the button spring in there after you replaced the coil?

Jebby
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Old Jul 21, 2021 | 03:34 PM
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Yes, reassembled everything complete.
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Old Jul 21, 2021 | 05:13 PM
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Originally Posted by rodney25
Hello All,

Hope all are safe. Strange problem just started. The engine will not start. I tested the spark plug by putting spark plug in spark plug wire, grounding the metal of spark plug to engine. Very low spark, sometimes no spark. I installed a new coil and ignition control module, cap and rotor but same thing. I tested the positive wire to the distributor with multimeter and got 12 volts and when the engine is cranking 9 volts.What else could it be? Does the distributer need to be replaced? Any thoughts are greatly appreciated.

Thanks
What year car is it? Is the distributor an original piece or a replacement installed by someone?
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Old Jul 21, 2021 | 07:18 PM
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Try taking an ohms reading for the pick up. It should be about 750-1500 ohms. Also check the pickup leads where they go into the pick up. Sometimes the leads fall apart from the vacuum advance flexing them.
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Old Jul 21, 2021 | 09:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Mrvettenick
Try taking an ohms reading for the pick up. It should be about 750-1500 ohms. Also check the pickup leads where they go into the pick up. Sometimes the leads fall apart from the vacuum advance flexing them.
x2 yup, also those same fine pickup wires may rub on side of housing, wear thru insulation, ground out. Pickup's cheap to replace but gotta pull dist and its gear off and pull shaft out in order to reach pickup. Set everything at TDC #1 first, then pull dist.

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Old Jul 21, 2021 | 10:03 PM
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Two things to check...

1. Repeat the test using a different plug wire - I know a bad plug wire is unlikley as the car isn't starting - but it's a cheap and fast test.

2. Check that the Module is properly grounded. We always worry about the V+ side - but all of with later model Vettes (should) have come to realize that grounds are typically a lot more problematic than power supply wires. You can check for grounding quickly by running a jumper from the control module ground to the batt neg terminal or to something like the alternator case.


If neither of the above look to help - you have a couple of options. You can try to replace the Ignition Module again. There are a number of stories on CF about brand new modules being bad. Or you can try to replace the entire distributor - and see if that resolves the problem. Full up HEI distributors are available through number of sources for pretty reasonable prices.
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Old Jul 21, 2021 | 10:29 PM
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Since you have a 75 it is a factory HEI and requires full battery voltage, 12+ volts.
Why do you have only 9 volts when cranking?

Last edited by MelWff; Jul 21, 2021 at 10:29 PM.
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Old Jul 21, 2021 | 10:55 PM
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It's a stock 1975. I upgraded the motor with a standard 350 from BluePrint.Was told that when cranking the voltage to the battery will drop down to 9 and that was normal. Installed a third Module & grounded but same issue.
Can anyone explain how to takei ohms reading for the pick up, and where the pickup is located?

Thanks
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Old Jul 21, 2021 | 11:04 PM
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Originally Posted by rodney25
It's a stock 1975. I upgraded the motor with a standard 350 from BluePrint.Was told that when cranking the voltage to the battery will drop down to 9 and that was normal. Installed a third Module & grounded but same issue.
Can anyone explain how to takei ohms reading for the pick up, and where the pickup is located?

Thanks
what is the voltage at the battery when cranking?
did you check the S terminal on the starter solenoid?

Last edited by MelWff; Jul 21, 2021 at 11:05 PM.
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Old Jul 22, 2021 | 12:04 AM
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pickup is below the weights & springs ... has "teeth" & two fine wires. To R&R it, You MUST remove dist from motor and pull gear off shaft, then pull shaft from housing.

you can take an ohm reading with it in place ... unplug it from module and probe the two fine wires (after 46 years, its white wire is now probably yellowish-brownish)

pic & details here .. it's Standard Ignition pn LX-302
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...t=7176&jsn=263

While cranking, make certain you have 9-12 VDC AT DIST CAP

FYI
LX302T is the budget cheapo version, while LX302 is the good one.

Last edited by ebbnflow; Jul 22, 2021 at 12:12 AM.
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Old Jul 22, 2021 | 10:36 AM
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Originally Posted by MelWff
Since you have a 75 it is a factory HEI and requires full battery voltage, 12+ volts.
Why do you have only 9 volts when cranking?
A factory HEI module is designed to work down to 6v. If there's an aftermarket module in it now, then it's anyones guess what it does at anything less than 12v.
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Old Jul 22, 2021 | 01:25 PM
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Could he not eliminate the voltage as an issue by isolating the dizzy to a 2nd known good battery to ensure 12v at cranking? Make sure connection can be easily disconnected to shut down the motor.
Never tried it, so proceed with caution.
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Old Jul 22, 2021 | 01:38 PM
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Originally Posted by wwiiavfan
Could he not eliminate the voltage as an issue by isolating the dizzy to a 2nd known good battery to ensure 12v at cranking? Make sure connection can be easily disconnected to shut down the motor.
Never tried it, so proceed with caution.
Sure. But if the starter is cranking at normal speed, I'm not concerned about the 9 volts.
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Old Jul 22, 2021 | 05:07 PM
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Yes, starter cracking at normal speed. Recharged the battery to be safe.
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Old Jul 22, 2021 | 05:17 PM
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Originally Posted by rodney25
Yes, starter cracking at normal speed. Recharged the battery to be safe.
again, check voltage AT Dist CAP
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Old Jul 24, 2021 | 07:01 AM
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Ok found the issue. Did all posted and still would not start. Got a new distributer and still nothing. I took carb cleaner and put a 1 sec spray into #2 chamber and its wanted to start. Then pumped the gas pedal 8 times and it almost started. Think the fuel pump is not pumping enough pressure to the carb. When I look down the carb the jet spray is not strong and the more you pump the weaker the spray gets until almost nothing. Why do you think?
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Old Jul 24, 2021 | 07:10 AM
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Change carburetors i had same problem on 77 . Was dead in the water and it was the carb Rochester .
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Old Jul 24, 2021 | 11:12 AM
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Originally Posted by rodney25
Ok found the issue. Did all posted and still would not start. Got a new distributer and still nothing. I took carb cleaner and put a 1 sec spray into #2 chamber and its wanted to start. Then pumped the gas pedal 8 times and it almost started. Think the fuel pump is not pumping enough pressure to the carb. When I look down the carb the jet spray is not strong and the more you pump the weaker the spray gets until almost nothing. Why do you think?
Disconnect the fuel inlet line to the carb. Place a rag around it. Crank the engine for a couple of seconds. If there's fuel in the rag, your pump is good. If not, then it's the pump. If you do have fuel, then it's the accelerator pump cup in the carb. They don't do well with ethanol fuels.
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Old Jul 24, 2021 | 01:48 PM
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I've seen Q-Jet Fuel filters that were truly horrid. It's a lot faster (and cheaper) to change a fuel filter than a fuel pump.

Of course - you could hook up a pressure gauge to the fuel line, put some gas in the carb, start the car and measure the fuel pump pressure.
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