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The horn relay gets its power from the starter. If no power there- you more than likely have a burnt fusable link- or bad connection/burnt/cut wire along the firewall.
The alternator's power (OEM- not the best way) goes to the horn relay- then to the starter- then to the battery.
Word of caution- if you have run a wire directly from the starter to the alternator with no protection (fuse/circuit breaker/fusible link)- at the terminal of the alternator you have 700A+ of unprotected power coming from the battery.
Not to sound stupid or anything but where are the fusible links located on the early 1968 C3's? I know where they are on a C4 but not on the C3.
Thank YOU Richard454 and augiedoggy!!!!!!
You have REALLY helped me with the wacky wiring on my C3!!!!
There was a different Electric Fan Controller that did short out accidentally and I was suspicious about having burned a Fusible link. Does this keep the Fuse Panel powered by any chance? I need to pull out my schematic and look again but the old schematic is not the easiest to read. I was pretty sure that the low original current went through the dash mounted Ammeter on its way to the Starter Solenoid and on to the battery.
I have a 200 amp fuse inline with my charging wire to protect the electrical system. I currently have the fuse mounted nearest the battery. Should I have fuse it between the Alternator and the Starter Solenoid?
I am going to look for the burned Fusible Link that is in there someplace.
The fusible link is off the starter solenoid- see below
If you have run the wire from the Alternator to the starter- safely - secured with the correct "SXL"high temp wire and correct gauge- you shouldn't need a fuse-
A fuse is designed to blow before the wire melts- not to protect the component.
If you are doing more upgrades to your car- like fuel injection- vintage air-stereo. I would have two wires fused coming from the battery- see below.
