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My AC Delco 4 year old alternator lately charges normally but at other times does not fully charge, The "Battery" light glows dimly and the volt gage reads around 11 or 12 volts. I put a multimeter on the alternator while the engine was idling, battery light not lit, volt gage reading around 14 and the meter showed 14.6 volts. Using the car yesterday, at times the gage looked good, other times showed a discharging situation with the battery light on. (I wasn't able to check with the meter at those times.) Any ideas on where to look for the problem?
maybe double check all cables to battery etc?
also the beginning of this thread has some good advice i tested on alternator.
if battery low, 15.5 is max normal.. i noticed the crap replacement rock auto ac delco limited to 14 something.. around post 100
on post #114 that China alternator dropped RPM 120!!!!! OEM 40 RPM.. some HP loss there..
More than likely a bad voltage regulator and/or diode trio.
Thanks. So changing out the alternator should be the fix. The strange thing is, I've had 3 different alternators over the last 10 - 12 years, always because of the same symptoms.
Thanks. So changing out the alternator should be the fix. The strange thing is, I've had 3 different alternators over the last 10 - 12 years, always because of the same symptoms.
i would get away from the China AC Delco as above.. do you have the original? seems pretty straight up easy to fix replace.. I was shocked dhow much RPM dropped at idle with China AC vs OEM.. and you are in a super power bracket!!!
Thanks. So changing out the alternator should be the fix. The strange thing is, I've had 3 different alternators over the last 10 - 12 years, always because of the same symptoms.
Voltage regulators/diode trio's going bad was a very common problem "back in the day".
maybe double check all cables to battery etc?
also the beginning of this thread has some good advice i tested on alternator.
if battery low, 15.5 is max normal.. i noticed the crap replacement rock auto ac delco limited to 14 something.. around post 100
on post #114 that China alternator dropped RPM 120!!!!! OEM 40 RPM.. some HP loss there..
Thanks. Yeah it is a Rockauto AC Delco reman. alternator. I'm going to check the grounds. Battery is old but seems to be good. Actually, I was racing yesterday and I made 2 runs in the "discharge" mode and the car performed normally in terms of ET and MPH. I lost in the 2nd round, but then it went back to normal operation. Not sure if I could have made the 20 mile ride home on the battery.
When was the last time you checked/ Replaced the ground strap from engine block to frame?
I'm getting under there tomorrow to check and clean that one and the neg. battery cable to frame connection. But, I do check these occasionally so I don't expect that to be the fix.
BTW - my battery is 9 years old. Starts the engine fine all the time. I have a disconnect which stays in the open mode 95% of the time. Can a battery possibly cause the charging problem?
Don't over look the fan belt! You may think it's tight enough and the alternator is turning, but even professional mechanics get fooled by a slipping belt.
Before changing the alternator - I would check and clean ground connections. Again - I've been bitten more than once by there being a poor ground connection in the system.
Sounds like the perfect opportunity to upgrade to a 140-amp CS144....... for real. It's wonderful. My battery is also old (like 7 years old) and that CS-144 has been great at maintaining voltage for years.
Sounds like the perfect opportunity to upgrade to a 140-amp CS144....... for real. It's wonderful. My battery is also old (like 7 years old) and that CS-144 has been great at maintaining voltage for years.
I don't really need a higher output alternator but I see the term cs144 describing some new alternators. What are the advantages? Also, what is a 1 wire alternator. I have the stock connections on mine and I want to keep them that way.
I went this route with my cheap china chrome 105amp unit... turns out it didnt need it but the kit I bought from napa was very easy to install and only took about 20minutes.
In my case the battery would drain while sitting overnight but I had the 2 pin connector installed backwards. At least this way I have high quality components in the alternator and it works well, being able to handle my dual fans and other loads at idle.
I don't really need a higher output alternator but I see the term cs144 describing some new alternators. What are the advantages? Also, what is a 1 wire alternator. I have the stock connections on mine and I want to keep them that way.
cs144 is a later model 144amp alternator. its larger and I believe some minor modifications are needed to install it. it is able to stay cooler while providing more amps if needed... Sounds like you dont need more amp capability in your case.
Last edited by augiedoggy; Aug 10, 2021 at 01:24 PM.
I picked up a 140-amp CS-144, one of the 3-legged units, at a boneyard just to see if (with the larger body) it would fit in the bracketry.
It fit just fine. I got the best looking one I could find and it cost me 22 bucks. I took it to autozone and go it tested and it tested good! So I bought a slightly longer belt and the appropriate SI to CS converter plug (because I'm lazy). Plugged it in and it worked like a dream.
Eventually I lopped off the 3rd ear so it just mounts with the 2 points which are 180° apart. Some of the best 22 bucks I've spend on this thing.
There are THOUSANDS (if not millions) of those 3-eared CS-144s on all the those FWD GM vehicles. Mine came from a Lumina per my car notes below (geez, that was 14 years ago and they're even more common now): {2-24-07: Bought an AC Delco CS-144 Alternator off a 1999 Lumina, VIN K. AC Delco part number 321-1144}
I don't really need a higher output alternator but I see the term cs144 describing some new alternators. What are the advantages? Also, what is a 1 wire alternator. I have the stock connections on mine and I want to keep them that way.
I worked part time in a auto electric shop so I like to share a few observations The CS144 gets very hot when putting out all those amps. 80-90 amps was the most I've ever seen from a hot CS144. Also the CS144 had a higher failure rate than the the good old DN10.
lot of those so-called 3 wire DN10 alternator's that has had it's voltage regulator replaced with in the last 20-25 years will self excite without the field/voltage plug. The one wire alternator is sort of marketing hype.
Thanks guys for all the input. Just a little more background info: the only things using current in my car is (HEI type) ignition and the power windows. No AC, no fan in the ventilation / heat system. Engine cooling fan and water pump are stock type belt driven units. I have a radio with CD but rarely use them. So, I really don't need anything more than the stock output level.
I haven't checked grounds yet, but I will. I will check the old battery too but I believe it will pass that test. So I'm leaning toward getting a NEW alternator this time, 100 amp max. Jegs has these, supposedly for a 77 Vette with stock wiring, with a deep V belt pulley, black powder coated, for $125.
.... Also, what is a 1 wire alternator. I have the stock connections on mine and I want to keep them that way.
A one wire alternator is exactly that - it only needs one wire (the output wire) hooked up - it will self excite. As with most everything in life - there are pluses and minuses. The big plus is simplicity in the wiring. The biggest minus is that the RPM required to begin the self excitement process can be pretty high. Once the alternator "wakes up" and starts to charge - then the RPM required for it to charge normally is "normal" - but (depending on pulley sizes etc) - it could take more than 2,500 RPM before the "One Wire" Alternator "wakes up".
And YES - ANY Alternator is going to get hot when putting out real current for any kind of prolonged timeframe. How hot depends on a lot of things including ambient temp, and the RPM the alternator (cooling fan) is spinning. Most of the time - cars are not drawing crazy high current. Figure less than 10 A for the Ignition & EFI, and maybe 15A for battery recharging. The bigger draws are the electric cooling fan (which can pull 40+ Amps, HVAC (blower fans can easily suck up 10A, and rear defrosters can easily eat up that much or more).
The strange thing is, I've had 3 different alternators over the last 10 - 12 years, always because of the same symptoms.
Check the two wire connector right at the alternator and verify that the wires have not broken (are just touching) inside the connector.
This could be the source of your intermittent charging symptom.