78 vette is getting new brakes, new solid rotors front and back (fronts where .030" under min spec), new rebuild Oring high heat stock calipers and SS brake lines. Pads are next and I know stock is organic but not a fan. Trying to stay on budget as all these brake upgrades were NOT planned so I'm trying to minimize damage. Plan would be to stay under $100 total for front and back. With that in mind and this car will be street driven only (400hp or 650hp if I can fit the supercharger on a 5.3LS) so better than stock stopping is a must. Semi Metallic has better bite but its harder on rotors and more dust vs the ceramics. So I think I want to choose between the 2 pads below. They are within $6 of each other but wanted to hear your guys thoughts. I normally try to run ceramics now a days in my DD cars due to dust and noise but used to swear by wagner semi metallic back in the day for my fun cars. I realize they are harder on the rotors and are dustier than ceramic but the car will have limited driving so I would rather have better performance with that low mileage. Since I don't have the OE rotors anymore I'm not too worried plus I go the cryo treated centric front rotors so hopefully that helps combat the aggressiveness of the metallic pads.

Centric - Posi Quiet extended wear - Semi Metallic - 1060080
Performance Friction - Carbon Metallic - 000810

I think I'm leaning towards the performance friction as I've heard good things about them from searches on the forum regarding the lower dust and better bite. Rotors are here (will check run out) and I've already started painting the calipers and the new SSBinc high heat Oring kit will be here soon so I would like to order the pads really soon if possible.

 

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79 disk brake pads backer shim usage noise when hard stopping - CorvetteForum - Chevrolet Corvette Forum Discussion

i personally could careless about dust, but do care about rotors..Z23 so far seems pretty good, will update with more miles..see the AC Delco organic cracking and heat fade i had..
i think you will be fine with any except organic (unless street easy)

CHECK YOUR ROTOR RUNOUT!

 

had those on my ZR1 and hated them. Sucked when cold, noisy etc. You really had to get them hot to do anything
Dust was bad which I dont care about but still....for a true st car I like organic..or semi metallic at best.

 

You had the 0008.10 or the centric? Rock auto has the 0008.10 as a premium pad that isn't considered high performance. However 0008.10 is denoted as a Z rated pad (higher heat) and intended for spirited street and autoX. I looked for the 0008.20 which is the more street friendly version but they are double the cost at minimum and harder to find. On PFC's website they don't even offer the 0008.20 when I search make and model.

 

I read that thread before, its where I first heard about the 0008.20 vs the 0008.10 versions. I want to get away from the organic and I run Hawk pads on my firebird which came in the BAER brake kit. Corvette will be street driven and cruised but I don't exactly drive easy on the street lol.

I will shoot for less than <.005 run out on the rotors since I will have Orings.

 

I have been using Performance Friction Carbon Metallics for over 20 years on MANY of my cars including my 78 C3.

They are by far the best street performance Pad I have used in over 40 years of driving: Tremendous stopping ability with extremely linear brake bite, totally unlike most pads that grab harshly and dangerously with semi aggressive brake pedal pressure, the harder you brake, the more PF pads bite with zero street performance fade, none to little dust, no noise, and literally will last 3 X as long as most performance street pads along with being VERY affordable, not outrageously priced like most high performance street pads which will not perform as well.

No Brainer!

GO PF Carbon Metallic (NOT THE Z RATED Autocross pads). A PF Z rated pad will be dangerous to use on the street if the pads are cold especially . Using A PF Z rated pad on a street driven car will feel like no brakes when cold and is very dangerous!

The advantage of a regular street Performance Friction carbon metallic pad is that linear pad bite will not upset the brake balance of the vehicle upon initial brake pedal application which is extremely important under severe braking, panic stops, and hard brake during inclement weather.

Do not walk but run from ceramic pads which were designed for quiet operation, long rotor life, with at best, fair street brake performance. Most Ceramic pads are junk......

 

I'm having a hard time locating the 0008.20 non Z rated pad.

 

i would note that the ones i am trying are carbon fiber ceramic if that matters.. don't know..still evaluating but so far OK..
OP also had a budget less than 100 all 4

the only noise i get is from literally the first brake light or heavy (mild noise one squeak) and then nothing.. have not driven them below 50f though?
i am only commenting on my oem calipers street/ aggressive at times.. so far no heat fade.
i am sure YMMV as the iron process material is not the same either as replacements..compared to 1979..
my rotors are original not machined

 

I used PF for many years doing performance driving. No noise and just a little gray dust on my polished aluminum wheels. I'd rather have something that works than clean wheels. I used the premium rotors from NAPA. They are made of much better metal.

Oh, I always used the high heat fluid up around 600 degree.

I recently help a friend dial in his new brakes, but these are my fronts.

 

What is the part number your running?

 

I'm pretty sure thats what my hawk pads are on my firebird. I have a initial light pedal squeal that I can't get rid of, stops after that inital squeal with slightly more pressure... actually drives me crazy.

 

ya, honestly they all to me squeak or make a sound the first time.. especially if any dew next morning..even new cars..

 

Inital squeak is fine like what your stating after sitting all night. I'm saying constant... every light pedal press even after 40 min of driving i get a high pitched squeal that stops with more pressure. If I get the pads good and hot they don't seem to do it like goosing it to 120 and slowing down to 75. I don't get any noise on my 2018 Ram after a few light stops.

 

close to $100 for all four
https://frozenrotors.com/front-perfo...d-0008-20.html

 

Fun fact, I got in touch with the designer over at PFC about the 0008.20 and 0008.10 pads. They have discontinued the 0008.20 pad which was a 42 compound and they weren't a big fan of that compound. You can tell what you have with the imprint on the pad puck that says PFC-42 or 44 (the number is the compound). The 44 compound was formulated for the 0008.10 pad which they developed further and now the new 0008.10 pad has the most up to date new formula 44 compound and is designed for street use and occasional autoX. It has more grip than organic and ceramic and less dust than both, has very low rotor wear despite the higher heat and grip. He said the biggest customer base for them is the trucking and school bus/buss industry and as you know lots of heat and heavy use in those industries. They also have a specific break in procedure which they can email you.

So here are the take aways:

• No longer offers the 0008.20
• Updated 0008.10 uses new formula 44 compound
• Designed for the street and more
• Similar to ceramic for wear, dust and noise but offers more grip and pedal feel/moderation
• High heat formula
• Requires special bed in procedure and even different for new or used rotors.

I ordered the PFC 0008.10 from rock auto for $92 (front and rear) with shipping and taxes so stayed within my budget.

 

I looked at them, this is old stock. But 2 sets plus shipping and tax they are actually $147!

 

Unknown it's been years. auto zone used to sell performance friction carbon metallic.

I agree with not using racing pads on the street. I used to drive and drag the brakes to get heat in them. Then you would tap the brakes ahead of time to see if they were working

 

i use Hawk ...work great

 

There are a couple really good youtube videos where they test popular brake pads on a company's brake test stand, using the industry standard test method. In the end the OEM's performed the best despite all the outlandish claims of the other brands. But the 'other' brands that were good name-brand typically performed pretty well, just not as good as the oem pads.

Ceramic? I would personally stay with semi-metallic. Any of the main brands will do ok for you. Or go OEM. My first and last experiment with ceramics on an older car designed for semi-metallics or organic brakes (not C3) did not go well. Napa's best. There was an immediate noticable reduction in stopping power compared to the semi-metallics I replaced, and they required a lot more pedal pressure than the S/M I was running. Had new rotors so they were broken in. Perhaps it was a bad batch or rotor/pad combo didn't like each other ...not sure. I've heard others make similar claims. Eventually I had to replace them, a good waste of 75 bucks (that was back then). I do put ceramic pads on newer cars that are designed for them so I'm not anti-ceramic pads per-se. I've read where car designed with ceramic pads in mind were designed with higher pad pressures, but I can't verify that.

 

parts rant…
I would agree oem fanboy here in most cases, i even pay dealer prices for pads on my Hondas ( which i think are semi metallic) or some other oem’s that seem to have great true quality oversight.
the variables come with a balance of new technology improvements ( or cost cutting) and what used to be available, Craftman tools anyone? My breaker bar from craftsman is a beast, but certainly would not recommend the same craftsman bar today.
the oem pads on my 79 pretty sure organic…good value but is it the same pad components (let alone quality or process) as 1979? Probably not with regulations etc..i thought asbestos worked well in the past as my new ac delco organic pads will quickly brake fade under hard use..was kinda scary actually for a street driven car. If i never pushed them hard i would probably say they are perfect and best value. Would 1979 pads be better? Don’t know but maybe.
is the caliper i get from auto store the same as several years ago? Betting not, let alone recently accelerator pump? Fuel pump?
do all ceramics suck? I don’t know but evaluating and so far carbon ceramic pads on oem rotor not machined doing ok and not fading like ac delco new. Is carbon fiber ceramic the same as older ceramic? I don’t know.
I certainly follow with great interest threads trying new stuff or validating quality of new stuff and for sure experienced folks and the pros and cons like race vs street or in between.
i have 4 calipers, one original to me 2 years (10,000 miles driven) ago left rear, half casting delco morain, the other half unknown still leak free. Diy o ring piston kit from for sale section rebuilt delco right rear oring ( lesson learned here from lip seals and not sleeved) still leak free, both fronts lone star delco rebuilds oring calipers from sponsors both leaked at 4 months and 11 months and warranted leak free as of several weeks ago. Do lonestar calipers suck? They have not by many here, did i get a bad batch? Was it rushed through? Was the raw material shortage and labor cause recent calipers to fail? Don’t know..but my track record aint so good but will keep updating.
i think what we are all searching for is value. Op has a budget and certainly mixing new parts which bring there own variables to make assessments. Keep us posted op! Good luck. Another data point and experience is appreciated.



@jb78L-82 i am ordering a set of those performance friction! Good price AND finally USA made will update in my brake thread..