Trailing arm inspection
NCM Grand Opening Veteran
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 20,979
Likes: 384
From: South of giving a damn
St. Jude Donor '11, '17
Thanks GTR1999! I'd didn't want to fool with this so just bought a complete offset trailing arm setup from Van Steel. I didn't and still don't need the offset arms, but why not get them while I was doing this.
Dr. Detroit
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 10,097
Likes: 4,027
From: New Braunfels Texas
I have a stupid question for you.....and I bet I am answering it in my own head.
Soon I will be changing the trailing arms out on my 72'. It is a very clean car but the bushings are shot. I opted to go with new trailing arms from a vendor with new bushing already installed.
My question is that I have to split the hub to get it off the old arm.......when reassembling, there should be no change in endplay with the current setup as long as the shims are the same correct? This assumes that everything inside is in excellent condition. It should go together the same as it cam apart, correct? I will check it anyway.....but just wondering if I am missing something in my head. Any tips for doing this?
Jebby
Soon I will be changing the trailing arms out on my 72'. It is a very clean car but the bushings are shot. I opted to go with new trailing arms from a vendor with new bushing already installed.
My question is that I have to split the hub to get it off the old arm.......when reassembling, there should be no change in endplay with the current setup as long as the shims are the same correct? This assumes that everything inside is in excellent condition. It should go together the same as it cam apart, correct? I will check it anyway.....but just wondering if I am missing something in my head. Any tips for doing this?
Jebby
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 6,529
Likes: 1,964
From: Temple Terrace Florida
If you are just removing the hub and not opening it up, the endplay will remain the same. Just mark the rotor and a stud so they go back together in the the same orientation. Of course, the rotor and the parking brake assembly must come out followed by the four nuts. Jerry
Dr. Detroit
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 10,097
Likes: 4,027
From: New Braunfels Texas
There are USA Made and Imported new arms out there. The USA are better and the welding more consistent. They are both powder coated so you are going to have to grind that off any mating area and the ID of the arm.
The axle nut should be torqued to 100+ ft/lb to line up the holes, a new cupped washer will be needed.
Pretty straight forward but you're going this far why not replace and setup the bearings and be done with them for 100k miles?
The axle nut should be torqued to 100+ ft/lb to line up the holes, a new cupped washer will be needed.
Pretty straight forward but you're going this far why not replace and setup the bearings and be done with them for 100k miles?
The arms I have are nicely welded and the Powdercoat has been machined off the mating surfaces….I have to move the E-Brake bracket.
I will check out the condition of the bearings soon.
Thanks for popping in….
Jebby
