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I want to tap into splice 256 for my TCU power for my 4L60e in my '80. It's a good choice as on the ign switch it is only hot in run. Here's the wiring schematic.
Does anyone know where that particular splice is or where any of the three wires going into it can be easily identified and reached to splice into?
I want to tap into splice 256 for my TCU power for my 4L60e in my '80. It's a good choice as on the ign switch it is only hot in run. Here's the wiring schematic.
Does anyone know where that particular splice is or where any of the three wires going into it can be easily identified and reached to splice into?
No idea where that splice is, but you could just tap it right off the ignition switch. Drop the column down and the ignition switch is right there on top.
Power for the radio is also hot only in run/acc and not in crank.
Last edited by bluthundr; Sep 12, 2021 at 11:26 AM.
Not much help but between the ignition switch and fuse box for power windows , maybe try to trace the supply wire from ignition switch going to fuse box or start on the “hot side” of the fuse box at power window fuse and go towards the ignition switch . On the newer cars you can look up splice locations from the Michell’s or All Data manuals , not sure on the older cars
Hope this helps. The orange wire with S256 runs from the black connector on top of the steering column ignition switch to the fuse block itself. It is part of the bundled wire harness which is all taped up in black tape. The tap itself is about a foot down from the black connector.
Last edited by MattoonVette; Sep 12, 2021 at 01:34 PM.
Thanks everyone for the advice. Please see the pic below. Is this the connector coming off the ignition? If that's the case then I just need to figure which orange wire is the target. My main objective is to tap in on the bat side of the circuit fuse or circuit breaker. If I tap in on the other side of the fuse or breaker, then a failure in a power window or radio fuse or circuit could shut down my transmission.
Bluthunder, when you said drop the column down, did you mean just the tilt or are talking about lowering the whole thing,
Thanks,
Last edited by vince vette 2; Sep 13, 2021 at 09:44 AM.
Thanks everyone for the advice. Please see the pic below. Is this the connector coming off the ignition? If that's the case then I just need to figure which orange wire is the target. My main objective is to tap in on the bat side of the circuit fuse or circuit breaker. If I tap in on the other side of the fuse or breaker, then a failure in a power window or radio fuse or circuit could shut down my transmission.
If the connector for the orange wire at the far right side of your photo matches the connector showed by MattoonVette in post # 4, I'd guess you've found your orange wire.
Thanks everyone for the advice. Please see the pic below. Is this the connector coming off the ignition? If that's the case then I just need to figure which orange wire is the target. My main objective is to tap in on the bat side of the circuit fuse or circuit breaker. If I tap in on the other side of the fuse or breaker, then a failure in a power window or radio fuse or circuit could shut down my transmission.
Bluthunder, when you said drop the column down, did you mean just the tilt or are talking about lowering the whole thing,
Thanks,
No, that connector is for the turn signals/horn etc.
The black 3 wire connector your looking for is plugged directly into the ignition switch, you may have to drop the column (loosen bolts) to access it.
The same ignition switch for a T&T column corvette was used from 69-82.
Here is a shot of the ignition switch and the 2 connectors.
Black 3 wire connector on the right.
No, that connector is for the turn signals/horn etc.
The black 3 wire connector your looking for is plugged directly into the ignition switch, you may have to drop the column (loosen bolts) to access it.
The same ignition switch for a T&T column corvette was used from 69-82.
Here is a shot of the ignition switch and the 2 connectors.
Black 3 wire connector on the right.
Thanks. So to lower the column, is it just a matter or pulling the bolts on the metal bracket under the dash?
If you can get at the column from the left side you may not need to loosen anything.
You will have to remove the A/C ducting if equipped.
The connector snaps into ignition switch housing.
Press in on the 2 tabs (Red Arrows) of the connector and pull out.
If you don't have the room just loosen the 2, you may also need to loosen the 2 nuts behind the brake pedal where the column passes through the firewall.
I don't know how much slack you will have at that section of harness? But there will be some.
Remember, that large RED wire is HOT ALWAYS!
Last edited by bmotojoe; Sep 14, 2021 at 11:23 AM.
Thanks. So to lower the column, is it just a matter or pulling the bolts on the metal bracket under the dash?
If I remember right, Jim Shea said to never just drop the column by the two bolts on that bracket. It puts stress on other components. I think you also have to remove the bolts holding the column to the firewall. I changed my ignition switch one time but can't remember how much or if I had to drop the column to do it. You might be able to just trace the orange wire back to the splice without having to drop the column. I've attached one of Jim Shea's papers on dropping the column and replacing the ignition switch as it may have some good info for you.
Edit: I do remember I also had to pull the steering wheel one time as it hit the seat and did not allow the column to drop far enough.
And the wrap. As I was perusing how to drop the column I noted several wires of the proper color combination, i.e. a pink, tan, yellow, and most importantly an orange along with a couple reds all accessible on the right side of the column. Since they were all together it appeared they likely were coming from and going to somewhere together which would likely be from the ignition switch and to the fuse block. So, I put a small hole into the orange wire and checked to see if it went to the plus side of the aux fan fuse slot. It did. I then checked to see if it was hot only in accessory. It was. That confirmed I had my desired wire. I cut a window in the insulation and spliced in the TCU power lead. This can be seen at the bottom of the blurry photo below.
I checked it all out and the TCU is a happy camper. And since I am no longer using the aux fan fuse block 12V + tab to power TCU, the aux fan is now available if needed. This is a good thing since I'm currently running the fan with just the alternator belt as the AC is removed. The takeaway I guess is this can be done without the need to lower the steering column. Thanks all for your help.
Last edited by vince vette 2; Oct 4, 2021 at 12:47 PM.
where is splice 256
