68 TA shims
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Instructor
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68 TA shims
Just installed the rebuilt TA’s and find that not all the shims fit back into place, most likely due to the new TA bushing being a bit larger. I’ve seen on a different thread that the inside shims determine toe, while the outside shims are fillers.
That said should I just leave the one 1/8” shim out of the outers side….or divide the difference and remove a 1/16” shim from each side?
I purchased the SS slotted shims to make the alignment easier and looking to have a 4 wheel alignment done once complete.
That said should I just leave the one 1/8” shim out of the outers side….or divide the difference and remove a 1/16” shim from each side?
I purchased the SS slotted shims to make the alignment easier and looking to have a 4 wheel alignment done once complete.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2012
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From: Dunedin NZ.
Have you measured the remaining gap with feeler gauges? The final shim should be an interference fit so be about ten thousands of an inch too large, you tap this in with a hammer and then if memory serves me correctly tighten the bolt to 47ft lbs. I tightened the bolt with the trailing arm in the same position it would be in with the car sitting on the ground.
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Didn’t measure with a feeler gauge, but with the 1/8” out I know it will fit another 1/32” shim without tapping. Maybe you could tap in two 1/32” shims, but thought that would make them tough to remove if required during alignment.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2012
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From: Dunedin NZ.
There is a ton of info on the forum about this, here's on excerpt -
After installing new off-set TA with new spindles and everything else on my car, As stated, put the thin shim in the center of the pack and leave a thick shim out on the inside where you can hammer it. You want the shim pack to be tight, so hammer the last one into place. Failure to do this will cause the TA pocket to compress when you tighten the bolt.
After installing new off-set TA with new spindles and everything else on my car, As stated, put the thin shim in the center of the pack and leave a thick shim out on the inside where you can hammer it. You want the shim pack to be tight, so hammer the last one into place. Failure to do this will cause the TA pocket to compress when you tighten the bolt.
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Thanks, saw a lot of info in the multiple site threads. Some mentioned not being able to get the same amount of shims in, some mentioned hammering. I think it’s a combo of both. I will continue to work on getting that last shim in with a little tapping.
Was looking for someone to comment on the purpose of the inside versus outside shims.
Was looking for someone to comment on the purpose of the inside versus outside shims.
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From: New Or-leens Loo-z-anna
Thanks, saw a lot of info in the multiple site threads. Some mentioned not being able to get the same amount of shims in, some mentioned hammering. I think it’s a combo of both. I will continue to work on getting that last shim in with a little tapping.
Was looking for someone to comment on the purpose of the inside versus outside shims.
Was looking for someone to comment on the purpose of the inside versus outside shims.
As others said...once you are satisfied with the shim spacing drive the thickest shim into place LAST into the gap next to the TA bushing to get a snug fit to maintain proper TOE(IN or OUT) and to prevent the front of the trailing arm from "squirming around" in the TA pocket.
Driving the Thickest shim in last prevents tapping in a thin shim instead, which will bend/crush.
Studying the "situation" will help you understand the use of shims better.
I modified my '68 shims to accept heavyduty cotter pins to prevent them from backing/falling out.
*Many members try to keep the thinnest shims in the center of the shimpack to prevent them from being damaged by the TA bushings.
Last edited by doorgunner; Sep 17, 2021 at 07:34 PM.
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Instructor
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Thanks for the reply. Sounds correct that both inside and outside shims would impact toe out and toe in, and the outside shims are not just filler. When I took the TA’s off the 1/4” shims were next to the bushing, and 1/32” shims were sandwiched between thicker shims when possible.
I’ll try hammering those 1/4” shims last….but I don’t want to damage that bushing trying to make room that might not exist.
Why couldn’t the new bushing be wider requiring less shims on both sides of the bushing?
I’ll try hammering those 1/4” shims last….but I don’t want to damage that bushing trying to make room that might not exist.
Why couldn’t the new bushing be wider requiring less shims on both sides of the bushing?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 3,123
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Just installed the rebuilt TA’s and find that not all the shims fit back into place, most likely due to the new TA bushing being a bit larger. I’ve seen on a different thread that the inside shims determine toe, while the outside shims are fillers.
That said should I just leave the one 1/8” shim out of the outers side….or divide the difference and remove a 1/16” shim from each side?
I purchased the SS slotted shims to make the alignment easier and looking to have a 4 wheel alignment done once complete.
That said should I just leave the one 1/8” shim out of the outers side….or divide the difference and remove a 1/16” shim from each side?
I purchased the SS slotted shims to make the alignment easier and looking to have a 4 wheel alignment done once complete.
Here is my DIY Method.
My DIY Alignment method - CorvetteForum - Chevrolet Corvette Forum Discussion
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Thread Starter
Instructor
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Thanks for the procedure.
Your adjusting toe example states moving a 1/32” shim from the inside to the outside.
Is it correct to assume all toe adjustments are made via inside shim adjustments (additions or subtractions) with the same amount added/subtracted to the outside to maintain total shims amount?
Your adjusting toe example states moving a 1/32” shim from the inside to the outside.
Is it correct to assume all toe adjustments are made via inside shim adjustments (additions or subtractions) with the same amount added/subtracted to the outside to maintain total shims amount?
Last edited by Batesgar; Sep 18, 2021 at 08:58 AM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 3,123
Likes: 605
Thanks for the procedure.
Your adjusting toe example states moving a 1/32” shim from the inside to the outside.
Is it correct to assume all toe adjustments are made via inside shim adjustments (additions or subtractions) with the same amount added/subtracted to the outside to maintain total shims amount?
Your adjusting toe example states moving a 1/32” shim from the inside to the outside.
Is it correct to assume all toe adjustments are made via inside shim adjustments (additions or subtractions) with the same amount added/subtracted to the outside to maintain total shims amount?
But step 1 is get rear thrust setup first
Then adjust each side the same amount for total toe.
Last edited by cagotzmann; Sep 18, 2021 at 10:42 AM.