Hi All,

I'm looking to get some headers to replace the stock exhaust manifold so I wanted to know what would fit in my current configuration.

I bought the car with the side pipes system install which it looks like it runs from the end of exhaust manifold onwards (not sure if it helps or adds but it also has the Edelbrock Intake Manifold fitted).

What headers would be a direct fit for the exhaust manifolds (and the side pipes exhaust system)?

Would something like these fit or alike?
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/s...make/chevrolet
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/p...make/chevrolet
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/s...make/chevrolet

(Pics attached are of current state - https://imgur.com/gallery/5jMftNU)

PS...dont worry...wires are getting redone so they wont be touching anything hot!

 

Shorties are probably about the best you can do, although I assume you could plumb long tubes in there someway or another. IIRC someone did make a header for that type of sidepipes, but I doubt if they work any better than shorties.

 

With shorties, are there any you think i could use that are a direct fit?

 

You can get shorties that will fit where the iron manifolds are now but you will not pick up any power with them.

A bigger issue that I see is the ignition wires must be very close to burning and shorting out. Does your engine misfire that way? Can't be good.

 

You can use shorties and they would almost bolt up except for the passenger side. You need to use a spacer on most stock sytems with the exhaust heat riser valve on the passenger side
They also make HEdman side exhaust headers that can be used with the stock exhaust, but you need to cut off the down tube from teh pipe and weld on a collector

 

If you can afford it look into ceramic coated headers. THe heat reduction is incredible

 

Would it be better to get an exhaust manifold instead or port, hone and polish the current stock on to add more power?

 

YOu can get the 2 1/2 inch Rams horns that Summit and Jegs sells. They are pretty decent for a stockish motor. Full length headers are the best but they probably flow just as well as shorty headers. The only issue is with some alternator brackets that mount to the stock manifolds wont work on the headers or the 2.5 aftermarket ramshorns. The bonus is you can still run the stock boomerangs underneath and run the wires below. You cant use the over the manifold heat shields thou without modifications.


Are you upgrading to aluminum heads? Without major head work that would almost cost the same as some inexpensive aluminum heads you arent going to see alot of improvement. You need to improve the air fuel mixture flow from the base of the carb all the way out the exhaust to really get some power improvements especially if part of your stock setup has major choke points. IF you can get a better intake on your motor, then port your heads and enlarge the intake and exhaust valves, that would get thet air/fuel mixture to your piston. If you have good compression then your exhaust will give you more benefits if its lets you flow that exhaust out easier and faster. So on a stock motor you may get lucky and have a 2.02 heads which has bigger valves and may just need a little port work. Machine work is still expensive though.

The fastest way to wake up a sleepy motor is to advance your timing to about 14 to 16 degrees initial. IF you havent dont that sort of thing contact Lars and get his timing papers that includes curving the distributor so that you have 36 degrees befor 3000 rpm. That alone wakes up a sleepy engine...alot!!



Then see what kind of intake you have. If its a snowflake Gm aluminum intake, stick with it for now and save a few bucks. Any aluminum dual plane intake that can fit under your hood would be an improvement over a cast iron intake, especially with the weight savings bonus. If you can, go with a dual plane intake, they tend to do better on mild engine improvements. Go with a bigger exhaust, atleast 2.5 inches and figure out what kind of manifolds or headers you can live with.

Then save up for aluminum heads. The best you can afford is usually the best way to go. I would look w=for something around 180 intake ports. You can always grow into a great set of heads and if you go too big at first they will improve with a bigger cam.

the simplest way to gain some power is get a head that flows well with bigger valves, aluminum if you can afford it with a smaller exhaust chamber so that you can get more compression out of stock pistons. I would look in a chamber as small as 58 to 64 cc'S, nothing bigger especially with a flat top piston. IF you pull your heads you will see what you pistons are. IF they are dished, the smallest chamber you can find. IF theres a lot of wear at the top of you cylinder, you would feeel a big lip at the top, stop right there and start saving for another motor or for machine work to upgrade yours. No sense throwing money at a worn motor unless you buy parts that are reusable on the rebuild.

at this point you may want to look into cams

Develope a budget and go from there...remember that alot of intakes wont fit under stock small block hoods and if your doing headers, an intake would help, you dont need to go wild, you can still have a lot of fun with 350 hp.

 

Wow, appreciate the replies im getting and the time taken, thank you so much.

At the moment it is looking like pass for the time being on the headers and look into cylinder heads (which was also on my list).

I should have mentioned, the motor was rebuilt and added in was comp camps (i dont kow the specs, paperwork isnt with me to list but i will proivde when i get the info but they are "mild"), elderbrock carb and elderbrock intake manifold and dewitts single fan radiator and running stock aircleaner system.

I am unsure if the cylinder heads were replaced though (i dont think so - how would i know without paperwork?). If not, then what other specs besides aliminuim and 58-64cc chambers should i be looking out for?

 

depending on the cam type and lift, you would have to match the springs to the cam thats in the motor. Try and track down the specs and list what else you have going on with your engine. the heads would be matached to the cam and intake and then you need the headers for the engine to exhale. The intake and heads combo in concert with the intakes ports and intake valves are the inhale of your motor and the exhaust port, valve and headers and pipes are the exhale. You cant take a deep breathe and blow out through a straw easily.

There are alot of folks that are going to tell you you need to match everythingbefore you build but the AFR, Brodix and trick flow heads are some of the best out there and can benefit any engine combo.

Since you have a cam , if you let us know what it is and the intake you have, you should be able to get a good idea of what you can use. like I said for a mild build , the 185 area of flowing heads are some of the best for small blocks even if its a 175 to 185 range. If you can find out what was put in for pistons you should be able to figure out what you can achieve for compression along with the cam specs. Even a 9 to one compression flat top style piston would benefit from a small combustion chamber and high flowing head. The importance of the cam is how much lift you have so that you dont hit the pistions with a valve. Figure out all that and you may find you need a long tube header once you get it running.