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Drove the car with no issues 4 days in a row, this morning it died at a red light, I had to floor the accelerator to get it started again after about a minute of trying.
Happened a 2nd time about half a mile later.
3rd time it bucked really bad before it died.
Here’s a short clip sitting in a parking lot after the 3rd incident.
Without know all the facts....is the choke opening? If so, does it act up after a while? If it acts up only when warm, it could be flooding from a stuck needle. When it acts up. look down the carburetor to see if fuel is running down the carb throat. If so, then the float needle may be sticking, causing the float level to be too high.
It started 3 times, but after the 2nd it was bucking really bad, That's why I pulled over and had it towed.
Again I say, I don't know anything about the mechanics of cars. Even if I was looking at the carb I'd have no idea if the choke was open and don't know what "fuel running down it's throat" would look like.
It started 3 times, but after the 2nd it was bucking really bad, That's why I pulled over and had it towed.
Again I say, I don't know anything about the mechanics of cars. Even if I was looking at the carb I'd have no idea if the choke was open and don't know what "fuel running down it's throat" would look like.
Now have the car towed to a mechanic so he can fix it.
It started 3 times, but after the 2nd it was bucking really bad, That's why I pulled over and had it towed.
Again I say, I don't know anything about the mechanics of cars. Even if I was looking at the carb I'd have no idea if the choke was open and don't know what "fuel running down it's throat" would look like.
Choke open:
Choke closed:
"Fuel running down its throat"...about 42 years ago my '71 was running rich and I could smell gas. A high school kid around the corner from me stopped by to see what I was doing. I told him that I could see gas pouring down into the carburetor. One glance and he said "your float has sunk". So I went to NAPA and bought a new float, he removed the top of the carburetor, installed the new float, and problem resolved.
Last edited by 71 Green 454; Oct 21, 2021 at 10:38 AM.
It started 3 times, but after the 2nd it was bucking really bad, That's why I pulled over and had it towed.
Again I say, I don't know anything about the mechanics of cars. Even if I was looking at the carb I'd have no idea if the choke was open and don't know what "fuel running down it's throat" would look like.
I have been curious about this kind of thing.
What king of info are you looking for?
Do you have a particular member you think will tell you what is going on?
If a member did tell you what it is and what to do, then what?
It could be a few things.
Some symptoms point to fuel and float.
The instant off could be electrical.
Your vid doesn't sound right in the respect that when you let off the throttle, the engine doesn't sound like it immediately snaps to idle, there is more of a "cush" to idle. no "snap" more of a settle.
Just trying to establish if you're losing spark, or it's flooding. Does it act up when fully warm, or is the engine cold? When you restart it does smoke come out of the exhaust? Have you looked at the spark plugs?
"Fuel running down its throat"...about 42 years ago my '71 was running rich and I could smell gas. A high school kid around the corner from me stopped by to see what I was doing. I told him that I could see gas pouring down into the carburetor. One glance and he said "your float has sunk". So I went to NAPA and bought a new float, he removed the top of the carburetor, installed the new float, and problem resolved.
Thanks for the pics, so it's choke was open when I looked at it in the afternoon while waiting for the tow truck to arrive, not sure what condition it was in right after I pulled over.
Originally Posted by calwldlife
I have been curious about this kind of thing.
What king of info are you looking for?
Do you have a particular member you think will tell you what is going on?
If a member did tell you what it is and what to do, then what?
It could be a few things.
Some symptoms point to fuel and float.
The instant off could be electrical.
Your vid doesn't sound right in the respect that when you let off the throttle, the engine doesn't sound like it immediately snaps to idle, there is more of a "cush" to idle. no "snap" more of a settle.
I'm just looking for input. I'm not unwilling to learn, you just have to understand that I'm starting from scratch so if you offer advice it needs to be from point A to B to C. If you start assuming I already know the A to B part I'm already lost.
Originally Posted by Mrvettenick
Just trying to establish if you're losing spark, or it's flooding. Does it act up when fully warm, or is the engine cold? When you restart it does smoke come out of the exhaust? Have you looked at the spark plugs?
It was cold in the morning when I made it about 3 miles before the first time it died, then after that was maybe a mile, then .5 miles to the final time.
Shop said it started right up for them again the next morning so, I'm guessing it acts up when warm. Didn't notice smoke, but I was in traffic so I wasn't paying attention. Just trying to get her going so I wasn't pissing off morning commuters.
Called the shop today for an update. They said my points were burnt and 4 of 8 plugs were gas fouled but they haven't had a chance to run it up to temp to test it since they replaced the parts. They're going to call with an update tomorrow.
Congrats on the big block and I wish you luck in learning your car/
A few must have tools beyond wrenches would be;
timing light
Dwell meter with ohs and dc volts digital multimeter
A vacuum gauge with a pump handle to apply vacuum.
many skilled and experienced guys here to help out.
But you need to be able to test and explain what you have found.
burnt points sound like a bad condenser.
condenser works with points and coil to allow good hot spark.
you are lucky in that all info and actual videos guiding you are available.
I remember well when a trip to the public library was a need and books listed the correct parts and specs.
The more you learn, the better the car will run and no high cost mechanic visits will be needed.
A factory service manual, if you can find one, is invaluable for trouble shooting and step by step procedures.
The more info you supply here when asking for advice about an issue the more success you will have.
Read everyone's responses, don't fall into a trap of only trusting one person.