When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Air pump has been removed, both check air valves are CORKED with wine cork, vacuum hoses every where. EGR and Vacuum Advance can is connected to EFE TVS port, Heat riser is also connected to EFE TVS lower port switch and upper port going to carburetor's ported nipple, at least owner has connected brake booster and PCV is going to manifold which is correct, charcoal hose also connected correctly.
Should EGR connected to ported vacuum and Vacuum advance connected to full manifold vacuum? I have a new carb coming and trying to clean up much as I can. Any suggestion on what to keep and what to trash?
i would eliminate heat riser valve, egr leave it or remove cap..
yes advance distributor to manifold vacuum by direct or carb port that is.
something wrong with your carb?
search lars timing procedure and consider saving your old carb..
pics always good..auto? Manual?
i would eliminate heat riser valve, egr leave it or remove cap..
yes advance distributor to manifold vacuum by direct or carb port that is.
something wrong with your carb?
search lars timing procedure and consider saving your old carb..
pics always good..auto? Manual?
Interpon, damn, that diagram will help me alot. Thank you so much. The EFE actuator is gone and so is the the little can (diverter valve) attached to the front of the passenger side valve cover. IS hose C (one that connects to top manifold source on the carb above fuel inlet. I know there's a big nipple that connects to charcol canister next to it even necessary? It's 1980 bone stock C3. Current carb, electric choke is completely broken, idle screw, fast idle both don't work and it's just dirty and rusted from sitting 4 years. On the diagram, they got the vacuum advance to ported source but will use manifold. My car has 3 EFE TVS switch but I will sort it out and reference it back to the diagram. Yes, I will remove the heat riser with a spacer but will leave the EGR as is. I do have papers from Lars. He's a great help on this forum.
Last edited by riverwabbit703; Nov 11, 2021 at 07:46 PM.
Since you are halfway to a complete emissions delete, just finish the job.
Work backwards from what vacuum signals you actually need:
Power brakes
Distributor vacuum advance (to a Manifold vacuum port on the carb, check with your finger) Check your timing while you are at it!
PCV
Fuel vapor (purge, and signal, the signal is on a Ported vacuum port) HVAC and headlights downstream of the check valve (you can delete those, too, like a professional).
You need zero TVSs if you've gotten rid of EGR and EFE. The dual-snorkel optional heat intake can be kept functional if you drive in the winter in Minnesota, otherwise remove the flappers and block the heat stove hole.
Make sure your heat riser is OPEN (which is default in an 80), or you will have a bad day. I'll post the photos of mine if I can find them.
Last edited by Bikespace; Nov 11, 2021 at 09:53 PM.
Here are the heat riser photos. You can see that the valve closes when vacuum is applied. Check the position of the lever to make sure yours is open, if you haven't removed the valve already.
Bikespace is right. You can eliminate most all of those hoses and valves. They work the EFE engine warm up systems and the exhaust gas recirculation system. Your systems are gone so you can invest in a box full of vacuum caps. The air cleaner defaults to "open" as does the heat riser valve. You should work on recurving the ignition and moving to a manifold vacuum advance setup.
If the carb is just dirty and has a broken choke coil......that is no big deal.....but PLEASE keep it.....DO NOT buy a "rebuild"........
Consider sending it to Lars......
1980 C3 vacuum hoses nightmare
