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Installed a new rear leaf spring, and now have a rubbing. The passenger side is hitting the rim when installed. I have checked all measurements and cannot figure where the problem is. The body is off the frame and not sure how to correct the issue.
It's possible that with the body off the spring isn't loaded very well (body, gas tank, etc) and the ends are down lower than normal, AND if the frame is sitting high (compared to when everything is on) then the camber on the wheels will be positive and the bottom could be kicked in
But pictures help as posted above
M
With the trailing arms unloaded, the suspension is going to be all over the place and the bolts down to the springs will be on some weird angles like you have. Nothing is "correct" until the suspension is at "ride height"
M
Ride height is more or less going to put the half-shafts horizontal and that will cause the trailing arms to be pushed outwards as they arc up and since the strut rods on the bottom are fixed lengths but slightly different mounting distances than the half-shafts the camber changes as they move upwards ("smart strut" mounts were lower to try to improve this but at the cost of ground clearance I guess)
Anyway, unless you can pull the arms up towards the frame (some have used ratchet straps I understand) then don't concern yourself too much about things being on weird angles back there, or at least not yet
Here's my bolt at an angle during a spring change with everything hanging
Only to whatever the maximum shock extension length is. In my image my shocks were on and it's still hanging down a loooog way
The street rod guys frequently make up "shocks" from threaded rod and nuts for the fronts and eyes welded to nuts on the rears so they can set the suspension using these "fixed length shocks" to hold everything where they want it so they can measure and mount spring hangers etc. My one brother uses something similar and I thought about it when doing my rear suspension but then figured it's going to be close enough.
M
That spring is under tension. Are the trailing arms limiting the droop or the half shafts? If it is the half shafts, you are stressing the ujoints. Be very careful!
Oldcarbum, yes the shipping clamps are still on I haven’t removed them. I was waiting till I got everything into the correct alignment. Not sure the clamps would make any difference?
Also, don’t torque the four spring to diff bolts until the car is on the ground with a full load on the suspension. You can install the shocks to keep the suspension from full droop or insert a wooden wedge between the lower edge of the trailing arm pocket and the trailing arm to hold it in place.
You can put small blocks of wood under the arms to take a little of the pressure off the trailing arms.... assuming the pockets in the frame are nice and solid
You just need enough to bring the arms up enough to allow the half shafts to be able to rotate
Or ratchet strap the rear of the arm up to the frame rail
The wheels will still not rotate easily like a normal rear but they should be able to be turned
M
Need help! With C3 Rear Suspension
