C3 Tech/Performance V8 Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine, Basic Tech and Maintenance for the C3 Corvette
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Old Nov 29, 2021 | 09:49 PM
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The car has been running great with no misfires or anything out of the ordinary. I got in the car this weekend and it fired over for a second then quit. Tried shooting ether down the carb to no avail. I have replaced all of the spark plugs and verified it has spark but it still will not start. The engine will not even try to fire it will just crank crank crank. Any ideas?
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Old Nov 29, 2021 | 10:06 PM
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You first need to check for spark at the plugs; I'm guessing you have none otherwise the ether would have ignited. I'm not versed in HEI distributors (as your '75 should have) and all that but others will need to know if you have the stock GM distributor or an aftermarket? Any other modifications to the ignition or carburetor other than an aluminum intake?
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Old Nov 29, 2021 | 10:21 PM
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I did verify it has spark at the plugs. The distributor has had the cap and rotor replaced but besides that it is factory. Nothing has been done to the carburetor.
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Old Nov 29, 2021 | 11:46 PM
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Originally Posted by SR75
I did verify it has spark at the plugs. The distributor has had the cap and rotor replaced but besides that it is factory. Nothing has been done to the carburetor.
My apologies. I reread your first post and see you verified spark there. So, you have fire, fuel (ether), and air. My next step would be to make sure the valves are opening and closing to eliminate a broken timing chain or sprocket. After that, bring your engine around to TDC on the timing tab and check that the #1 piston is fully raised – in case your timing skipped a tooth or two. If all this checks out OK, I suppose a compression test would be next.

Out of curiosity, when you crank and crank, are the plugs wet with fuel and does the exhaust smell like raw gasoline?
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Old Nov 30, 2021 | 12:01 AM
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I remember when I changed the intake that I could reach through the hole in the block and lift the timing chain about 1/4 inch off of the gear. I would still think it would at least try to fire even if it had jumped time but I could be wrong. The engine had flooded because I pumped the pedal way too much trying to start it. I figured I had fouled the plugs out but its got new spark plugs now so that shouldn't be the problem I wouldn't think.
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Old Nov 30, 2021 | 07:38 AM
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That is way too much play in the timing chain. You should not be able to lift chain off of the gear . I would check timing as 67 : 72 stated .
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Old Nov 30, 2021 | 07:53 AM
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Have a friend get in and bump the engine over while you hold your thumb over #1 spark plug hole......blow the thumb and get the mark on the balancer on 0 from there with a bar. Now pull the cap. Where is the rotor pointing? It should be at #1 wire on the cap.......you mark a line with the cap installed to the base to spell out #1 on the base....straight down mark.When you pull the cap it should be pointing at that mark....or close to it. If not.....then you have jumped cam timing. Now put your bar back on and rotate the crank back and forth......how many degrees at the crank does it move before the distributor does? You maybe in for a timing chain job....but if it had 1/4" slack it should just be changed.....engines like that with sloppy timing chains are difficult to tune and do all kinds of weird **** on and off the throttle......

Jebby
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Old Nov 30, 2021 | 08:56 AM
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Originally Posted by SR75
The car has been running great with no misfires or anything out of the ordinary. I got in the car this weekend and it fired over for a second then quit. Tried shooting ether down the carb to no avail. I have replaced all of the spark plugs and verified it has spark but it still will not start. The engine will not even try to fire it will just crank crank crank. Any ideas?
You can not shoot ether and not get fire unless you have the spark of a fire fly. Get a good coil and or ECM and I suspect it will fire up
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Old Dec 1, 2021 | 12:45 PM
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If this thing has jumped time enough to cause a no start, you can probably hear a difference in the cranking sound. That being said, if you have spark and fuel, the next item is to make sure that the distributor and crank are in time.
If you can line up the timing mark on the damper at TDC, then the rotor should be lined up with #1 or 6. If not, then it's probably jumped. Funny, how engines run fine up to that point, then it jumps. How many miles, and is it the original plastic toothed gear?
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Old Dec 1, 2021 | 11:47 PM
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It has 72k and the original plastic gear. I believe my problem is a weak coil or ignition module. It has incredibly weak spark (an orange color). I ordered a new distributor so hopefully that fixes the problem.
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Old Dec 2, 2021 | 10:55 AM
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Originally Posted by SR75
I remember when I changed the intake that I could reach through the hole in the block and lift the timing chain about 1/4 inch off of the gear. I would still think it would at least try to fire even if it had jumped time but I could be wrong. The engine had flooded because I pumped the pedal way too much trying to start it. I figured I had fouled the plugs out but its got new spark plugs now so that shouldn't be the problem I wouldn't think.
Originally Posted by SR75
It has 72k and the original plastic gear. I believe my problem is a weak coil or ignition module. It has incredibly weak spark (an orange color). I ordered a new distributor so hopefully that fixes the problem.
Even if the new distributor fixes the problem, I would encourage you to change the timing set. You don't want it to completely fail while driving.



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Old Dec 2, 2021 | 02:27 PM
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Double check your points, easy,
install a new coil, cap and rotor, easy and cheap,
Check voltage at the coil, easy,
Start tearing apart pulleys etc, and replace the timing chain, time consuming but reasonably easy and cheap.
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Old Dec 2, 2021 | 08:14 PM
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Got the new distributor in and the engine fired right up. Set timing to 12 degrees and it runs as good if not better than before. I will be looking into and gathering parts for a new timing chain and maybe even a cam swap. Thank you all for your input and help on getting the old girl back running again.
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Old Dec 2, 2021 | 10:50 PM
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Original plastic timing gear? There’s your problem. It’s sheared all the teeth. It’s not the 72,000 it’s the 40 some years. That should’ve been changed 20 some years ago.
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Old Dec 4, 2021 | 05:14 PM
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ya know? my 75 is numbers-matching. woohoo! but i have no idea what i have for a timing gear. and i bet there are a lot of us who are in the same boat...
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Old Dec 4, 2021 | 05:30 PM
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Originally Posted by derekderek
ya know? my 75 is numbers-matching. woohoo! but i have no idea what i have for a timing gear. and i bet there are a lot of us who are in the same boat...
Are you ready to crack that motor open? I wouldn't touch it if it's running fine, unless you intend to race it. but if it's stock..........
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Old Dec 4, 2021 | 07:42 PM
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doesn't matter what you are doing with it. a 40 year old nylon timing gear is a grenade with the pin already pulled. i missed a shift with my 65 GTO. in 77. all the teeth left the timing gear. 12 year old gear. not 47 years old. i guess you can see the gear with a borescope with the pan dropped? and nobody races a 75 L48 that has never been apart. at least they don't win much...
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Old Dec 4, 2021 | 08:37 PM
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Missing a shift can clean any plastic gear regardless. My point was why touch an original motor? Obviously you haven't.
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Old Dec 5, 2021 | 08:08 AM
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why? cuz i can miss a shift in this one too... and i have seen many cars with stripped timing gears. station wagons with automatics. they don't get over revved.
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Old Dec 5, 2021 | 09:36 AM
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I didn't ask why. You are the one that's concerned, yet you still have the original gear.
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