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Quick question here folks thanks for all the help I got from the last thread. I got the wire strippers and stuff I'm just wondering could I connect the audiosound speakers to this speaker wire that's connected to the head unit? I'm thinking I just wrap some on the female bullet connector and wrap some around the male connector and seal it up with electrical tape (or is electrical tape not safe enough?).
If I can do this does anyone know where I'd wrap the positive (copper) and negative (silver) (on which red bullet connector male or female)
It looks like you have plenty of NEW wire in the bundle from the other post you started.
Mount your speakers, Mark your wires L&R, run your new wiring to deck, clip out old traditional speaker wiring,
Add new crimp connector directly to deck.
No need for tape, no need for extra splices.
Go to the auto parts store and pick-up a small tube of Dielectric Grease.
Fill the F/M connector with it, plug in male connector.
Here is the problem, you need know, want to know, should know, what is the +wire and what is the -wire at both the deck and your new speakers.
Is the BLK/WHT stripe wire positive??? Is the Solid WHT wire negative???
It looks like you have plenty of NEW wire in the bundle from the other post you started.
Mount your speakers, Mark your wires L&R, run your new wiring to deck, clip out old traditional speaker wiring,
Add new crimp connector directly to deck.
No need for tape, no need for extra splices.
Go to the auto parts store and pick-up a small tube of Dielectric Grease.
Fill the F/M connector with it, plug in male connector.
Here is the problem, you need know, want to know, should know, what is the +wire and what is the -wire at both the deck and your new speakers.
Is the BLK/WHT stripe wire positive??? Is the Solid WHT wire negative???
thats just it man the instructions don’t tell me anything about which is positive and which is negative is it alright if i just test out both and see which one works or will i damage the speakers?
thats just it man the instructions don’t tell me anything about which is positive and which is negative is it alright if i just test out both and see which one works or will i damage the speakers?
Is there a access cover on the back of your speakers that can be removed?
There is usually a ink stamp or something indicating the + & - side at the speaker where the wires are
I don't mean to make this more difficult then it is, just want you to do it right the first time.
100% not making it difficult at all man ur helping me out a ton When I get home I will check out the backplating. Regarding the crimp connectors so do i need to buy these 22 -16 red connectors or do i need to buy the red disconnect terminals because of the bullet ends and if so would I buy both male and female terminals right cause i need to slide them on the ends of the new speaker wire and connect to the head unit cables.
If you can get the bullet style get them, just to match what your speakers have.
See if you can get a make and model of your stereo, I will help look for a wiring diagram.
I don't suggest it, but you could use the first style Butt Splice connector.
Having M & F/M disconnects (like the bullet style) are a plus especially if you at some point want to replace your deck.
The wiring to your speakers would already been done...
If you can get the bullet style get them, just to match what your speakers have.
See if you can get a make and model of your stereo, I will help look for a wiring diagram.
I don't suggest it, but you could use the first style Butt Splice connector.
Having M & F/M disconnects (like the bullet style) are a plus especially if you at some point want to replace your deck.
The wiring to your speakers would already been done...
alright thank u so much for all the help man when i get home ill go down and try to find the cheap deck brand. The PO already had speakers wired w positive and negative so I figured id just connect at the same points and just to be 100% clear these are the bullet ones right? I just picked them up from home depot and some wire crimpers do i still need to crimp with these?
No, these are the bullet style at home depot. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Gardner-...205846720-_-N&
You will also need a good crimping tool...
Purchase the best tool you can afford.
A good tool will last a lifetime if taken care of...
Here are many crimping tools. Klein makes good tool but since you are working on insulated connectors now, make sure they will crimp both insulated and non insulated terminals... https://www.homedepot.com/b/Tools-Ha...wire%20crimper
No, these are the bullet style at home depot. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Gardner-...205846720-_-N&
You will also need a good crimping tool...
Purchase the best tool you can afford.
A good tool will last a lifetime if taken care of...
Here are many crimping tools. Klein makes good tool but since you are working on insulated connectors now, make sure they will crimp both insulated and non insulated terminals... https://www.homedepot.com/b/Tools-Ha...wire%20crimper
okay i finally get it now thank you ill have to go back in the morning to home depot and buy the bullet ones I messed that up. Ill purchase the best crimper available. Btw my deck model is “SWM 1787”
The wiring diagram is a sticker on the top of the deck. It shows positive and negative for the speakers by wire location in the plug and is written in Chinese
The wiring diagram is a sticker on the top of the deck. It shows positive and negative for the speakers by wire location in the plug and is written in Chinese
Yep...
I found a 508 that looks to match the OP wire colors he shared in another thread.
So let's "Assume" both L&R striped speaker wires are negative (-) and then would connect to your decks L&R negative (-) wires.
In general, the rear speaker output power in watts of a car stereo is more.
Example:
On my Vintage JVC wired for a 4 speaker system Maximum Output to Front speakers is 8 watts per channel.
Maximum Output to Rear speakers is 22 watts per channel.
Who knows what the speaker wattage output of your $35.00 SWM-1787 is....Rock-On...
In general, the rear speaker output power in watts of a car stereo is more.
Example:
On my Vintage JVC wired for a 4 speaker system Maximum Output to Front speakers is 8 watts per channel.
Maximum Output to Rear speakers is 22 watts per channel.
Who knows what the speaker wattage output of your $35.00 SWM-1787 is....Rock-On...
Thanks for all the help man I'm diving in tonight and hopefully everything works out. I was removing the trim panel that holds the seatbelt this morning but I was confused about how I remove the seatbelt to break free the trim panel... I don't need to do that to get the speaker wire under the carpet ...but I wanted to dye both the panel and seatbelt. I just removed the panel and went to school because I didn't really have enough time to look at things closely and I saw some red cap that said warning or caution do not remove stopped me from moving forward.
In general, the rear speaker output power in watts of a car stereo is more.
Example:
On my Vintage JVC wired for a 4 speaker system Maximum Output to Front speakers is 8 watts per channel.
Maximum Output to Rear speakers is 22 watts per channel.
Who knows what the speaker wattage output of your $35.00 SWM-1787 is....Rock-On...
Yeah I gotta replace this junk deck down the line that's why I'm def going w the removable bullet connectors
If you can't figure out the polarity of the speakers, tap the wires going to the speaker on a AA battery and watch the cone. If the cone pops out when you touch the battery, the polarity is correct. If it sucks in, it is backwards.
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