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Has anyone here cleaned the Block-to-Head surface with crankshaft, rods, and pistons installed and engine in the car? How did you do it and what did you use? Naturally I want to measure flatness also, so it must be as clean as possible for that as well as accepting the Gasket and Cylinder Head for a proper seal. This Engine surface was milled flat 13K miles ago. Damn compression ratio was calculated as 11:1 so, you know, the cleanest possible while in the car. Cylinder Head is being reworked.
Thanks for your thoughts.
A good single edge razor blade or sharp pen knife; followed by coarse steel wool, kero/diesel and rags.
Also, any ATF is a good bore cleaner and rust-preventive.
Thanks much. Was concerned with contamination. Still am actually. Just hoping the surface is flat enough to not need decking. Serial numbers were partially obliterated from the first!
Rags are for blocking detritus incursion as well as wiping; use air to blow out blind holes and stuff a small wad of newsprint etc into the others. It's very important to be neat & clean; but this ain't a NASA lab.
I use a putty knife mostly.
vacuum, vacuum, vacuum.
When done, slowly rotate crank in stages to
allow wiping the crap left on the cyl walls as the piston goes down.
A little oil or Vaseline added around pistons will help catch little stuff before you start.
Rags are for blocking detritus incursion as well as wiping; use air to blow out blind holes and stuff a small wad of newsprint etc into the others. It's very important to be neat & clean; but this ain't a NASA lab.
Yeah. Can just vacuum out the stuffed cotton in the water passages. Will get the cylinders/pistons as dry as possible before starting so as to help them vacuum out well too.
I did it once when I was 15 and working on my old Chevy pickup. I did not get the cylinders clean enough before putting the heads on and was replacing the short block a year later.
I figure next time I have to do it I'll put a bit of grease around the tops of the pistons to keep the gap clean.
I did mine 5 years ago, And last week.
I pack grease around the edges of the pistons to prevent stuff getting down into the ring land area. then pack the cylinders with paper towels. Scrape and then go over the block with emery. clean with lots of brake cleaner and blow out with tons of compressed air. Turning the engine over by hand will leave the grease and any trapped particles at the top of the bore. Cleaning several times before using brake cleaner and air as a final clean on the bores. Might be a little time consuming, but quicker than pulling the engine.
And note the thread cleaning tool. Gotta clean all those threads so your new sealer has a chance.
I did mine 5 years ago, And last week.
I pack grease around the edges of the pistons to prevent stuff getting down into the ring land area. then pack the cylinders with paper towels. Scrape and then go over the block with emery. clean with lots of brake cleaner and blow out with tons of compressed air. Turning the engine over by hand will leave the grease and any trapped particles at the top of the bore. Cleaning several times before using brake cleaner and air as a final clean on the bores. Might be a little time consuming, but quicker than pulling the engine.
And note the thread cleaning tool. Gotta clean all those threads so your new sealer has a chance.
Great reminder on cleaning those threads!
BTW, what sealer did you use on the head bolts/studs?
If you're gonna use a power tool, Nothing beats a 3M Bristle Brush for fast removal while virtually no risk of warping surface. The older 3M Roloc with textured non woven fabric can wreck a deck in a quick minute!
If you're gonna use a power tool, Nothing beats a 3M Bristle Brush for fast removal while virtually no risk of warping surface. The older 3M Roloc with textured non woven fabric can wreck a deck in a quick minute!
I've used these to clean up both iron and aluminum heads / blocks and they work great - you just have to always keep moving - if you sit in one spot drying to get a spot of gunk off you will end up with a low spot. Spray the surface with WD-40 and with just light pressure go all over the surface evenly until it is clean and it will turn out well. https://www.harborfreight.com/pack-o...scs-99985.html
I've used these to clean up both iron and aluminum heads / blocks and they work great - you just have to always keep moving - if you sit in one spot drying to get a spot of gunk off you will end up with a low spot. Spray the surface with WD-40 and with just light pressure go all over the surface evenly until it is clean and it will turn out well. https://www.harborfreight.com/pack-o...scs-99985.html
on really bad spots a flat file. it will only cut that which is sticking up. and 120 grit or finer paper by hand and it will take you a loooong time to sand .001 off a cast iron block or head.
on really bad spots a flat file. it will only cut that which is sticking up. and 120 grit or finer paper by hand and it will take you a loooong time to sand .001 off a cast iron block or head.
Use 3M Bristle Roloc discs......Green for cast iron and White for aluminum......
These were designed in 1998 in conjunction with Chrysler on the 100% Failure rate 2.0L head gasket.........
They had to be able to clean the surfaces in the car and the head is an interference fit so the white is used as it is easy on aluminum pieces but removes debris and sealer easily......
No tool box should be without these.....
My O'Reilley's stocks them as well as Amazon.....
Engine Head Surface Cleaning en vivo.
