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I have dart shp 400 with forged callies crank and rods and cp bullet flat top pistons. Heads are Pro-filer 210 with 2.08 valves ,comp valve springs and 10 deg locks. Using Scorpion 1.5 roller rockers with Jomar stud girdle and Trick flow pushrods.. Ported Victor jr on top with Quickfuel 950 w/annular booster carb. Thinking of going solid roller and Procharger this winter w/ e85.
I have dart shp 400 with forged callies crank and rods and cp bullet flat top pistons. Heads are Pro-filer 210 with 2.08 valves ,comp valve springs and 10 deg locks. Using Scorpion 1.5 roller rockers with Jomar stud girdle and Trick flow pushrods.. Ported Victor jr on top with Quickfuel 950 w/annular booster carb. Thinking of going solid roller and Procharger this winter w/ e85.
Ok….no matter what you do the intake rocker is going to be at an angle….it is by design. The exhaust will be straight….what is important is the pushrod to rocker tip relationship….the tip needs to be center on the valve left to right….when you get it center…see where the exhaust rocker is….if it is too far off to one side….you will need adjustable guide plates to make it right.
But going back through your photos….are those self locating rockers? Take another pic of the roller tip and post. If they are….you cannot use them.
You can pull a nut and stud just like a bolt….one at a time will not hurt….
Ok….no matter what you do the intake rocker is going to be at an angle….it is by design. The exhaust will be straight….what is important is the pushrod to rocker tip relationship….the tip needs to be center on the valve left to right….when you get it center…see where the exhaust rocker is….if it is too far off to one side….you will need adjustable guide plates to make it right.
But going back through your photos….are those self locating rockers? Take another pic of the roller tip and post. If they are….you cannot use them.
You can pull a nut and stud just like a bolt….one at a time will not hurt….
I really don't have anything constructive to say, other than I'm watching this thread with great interest.
And I'd have to say, looks like Jebby has this covered.
A. Listen to him. he knows his ****.
B. I'm glad I build my own engines. Your builder looks like he can't find his *** with both hands.
I would tear that entire engine down. If he can't even measure a pushrod length correctly, God only knows what else is stuffed up.
On your head stud question, yes I would remove at least one and check for sealant. Once the nut and washer is removed the stud should come right out. If the one you pull has sealant, you could assume all do, but my **** need to know would make me do them all. One at a time can be done without retorquing everything, however once you verify and are confident, I would run the final torque sequence on all just to be confident. I agree with Jebby on all the valvetrain comments.
Ok….no matter what you do the intake rocker is going to be at an angle….it is by design. The exhaust will be straight….what is important is the pushrod to rocker tip relationship….the tip needs to be center on the valve left to right….when you get it center…see where the exhaust rocker is….if it is too far off to one side….you will need adjustable guide plates to make it right.
But going back through your photos….are those self locating rockers? Take another pic of the roller tip and post. If they are….you cannot use them.
You can pull a nut and stud just like a bolt….one at a time will not hurt….
Jebby
They do sell offset rockers. I ran them on my AFR 220 heads because the alignment with the big valves was off . They said I was ok with out the offset. But when the valve was being opened. The rocker tip and end would move left and right. And Personally I was not a fan of the rocker moving in any direction "Except" Up and down lol.
They do sell offset rockers. I ran them on my AFR 220 heads because the alignment with the big valves was off . They said I was ok with out the offset. But when the valve was being opened. The rocker tip and end would move left and right. And Personally I was not a fan of the rocker moving in any direction "Except" Up and down lol.
That's what I'm afraid of. How much movement did you get? Enough to move the roller off the valve tip and hit the rocker tips?
On your head stud question, yes I would remove at least one and check for sealant. Once the nut and washer is removed the stud should come right out. If the one you pull has sealant, you could assume all do, but my **** need to know would make me do them all. One at a time can be done without retorquing everything, however once you verify and are confident, I would run the final torque sequence on all just to be confident. I agree with Jebby on all the valvetrain comments.
I'm definitely going to pull a couple (one at a time). Hate to say it but I bet there's no sealant on them. If both do have sealant, it's pretty safe to say the rest do too. Hopefully.
Question about the guide plates: I don't have a welder, so can't cut them in half to make them adjustable, then weld together. I know they sell 2 piece adjustable, but I'd feel more comfortable with a 1 piece. So the question is- Can I extend the existing slots a little bit left or right (with a grinder/Dremel)? Or does than compromise their strength/integrity and/or allow for too much movement?
You could do it but it may allow more side to side movement then intended. In a ideal situation you would remove from one side and add to the other to maintain the same guide to pushrod fit.
You could do it but it may allow more side to side movement then intended. In a ideal situation you would remove from one side and add to the other to maintain the same guide to pushrod fit.
Ugh... that's pretty much what I was thinking. Any thoughts on the adjustable 2 piece plates? My concern is that they'd eventually move, even when properly torqued down. An adjustable 1 piece would be ideal, but I don't think that exists, outside of custom made of course.
You can buy the adjustable guide plates then have them tac welded once you are happy with the alignment. Maybe contact Afr after the holidays and see if they have a fix on the shelf. I am sure you are not the first to deal with this.
Was the bottom end assembly done by the same guy that missed some things on the top end?
I think someone else suggested pulling the motor and going through everything, I'm going to second that after seeing that stud.
Was the bottom end assembly done by the same guy that missed some things on the top end?
I think someone else suggested pulling the motor and going through everything, I'm going to second that after seeing that stud.
Fortunately, no. I'm fairly certain after the heads are straightened out I'll be good to go.
Anyone know of a good way to ensure all the coolant is out of the block stud holes when I re-install the studs? Or will I still get a seal using the Permatex if there's still a little coolant on the threads? Obviously I'll clean the studs before applying sealant to the threads, but I'm not sure how to get to the block threads completely clean without removing the heads. The stud was remarkably clean when I removed it, but of course there was coolant on the threads.
I suggest draining the coolant in clean container for possible re-use. Then blow each hole out individually with rag over hole doing them one at a time. Add sealer then re-install studs.
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