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I picked up a 454 short block(crank rods pistons cam) for $250, standard bore, 2 bolt main. It’s a 14015445 casting number and date code is Feb of 1982.
The intention is to do a moderate build and swap out my SBC 350 with it when it’s ready. I’ve done some looking on other threads on here and it seems fairly straightforward of a swap.
what are the general thoughts on the 445 block?
Question, many of the swap threads I read involved an older 454, a 289 or 512 casting #, this being a later year(1982) is it still easy bolt on? Motor mounts will fit? No clearance issues? This is going in a 1975 vette.
I know things like brackets/accessories will need to change. That’s fine. Motor mounts and clearance are my concerns.
Thanks
no diff but the casting number and date code. come 91 or 92 they deleted the fuel pump mount as they were all efi. i like the 96-02 version as they were factory roller blocks. dished or flat pistons in this one? you can't use your 350 flywheel, even though it bolts on...
no diff but the casting number and date code. come 91 or 92 they deleted the fuel pump mount as they were all efi. i like the 96-02 version as they were factory roller blocks. dished or flat pistons in this one? you can't use your 350 flywheel, even though it bolts on...
I did check and make sure it has the mechanical fuel pump mount. flat pistons. Good to know about the flywheel. I do believe my mini starter will still work though.
My only concern is that there are no numbers on the passenger head area. To me that says the block has been decked? I took the guys word on it that it’s standard bore, I’ll be checking soon enough though.
Make sure it has proper holes for clutch cross shaft if needed. It's a one piece main seal...so takes a specific oil pan if you're planning to change it. Motor mounts will be fine. Again..make sure you get right flywheel.
What heads are you planning? There's some quirks there also with later blocks/early heads.
What heads are you planning? There's some quirks there also with later blocks/early heads.
JIM
I’m thinking edelbrock performer rpm heads or something along that line. I’m still doing research on the best bang for buck out there. Roughly $2k for heads.
I’m going to take the crank out today and look for any damage/scores and the like.
I’m thinking edelbrock performer rpm heads or something along that line. I’m still doing research on the best bang for buck out there. Roughly $2k for heads.
I’m going to take the crank out today and look for any damage/scores and the like.
I did the same small block to big-block conversion on my 69. It is a pretty straight forward conversion.
The first thing to do is to have the block checked by a competent machine shop. They will advise you the rest of the bottom end. I went with all forged components.
I used the Performer RPM heads. Be careful with the head selection. Some have different exhaust port heights. The Performer RPM have the original exhaust port location so you can use original cast iron manifolds.
Headers for a C3 with a big-block can be a pain especially when the exhaust port height is not taken into consideration.
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block decked? turn the engine until a piston is at TDC. see if piston is flush with the deck or down a bit. in fact, go to lowes or harbor freight and pick up a 25 buck set of dial calipers. then you can measure bore, journals, how far down in the hole, etc. your bearings will either say GM100 and a month-year date, or FM or SP or some other aftermarket stamp and std, .010, .020, .001, etc. the pistons if oversize will have .030 and a non=gm number on them. this was a truck motor. i did have an .010 overbore from the factory 454. and it didn't say anything. may have forged crank and 4 bolt mains. probably only 3/8ths rod bolts though.
Update
got the motor apart in the garage. Not the best findings. The crank main and rod bearings have a 010 stamped on them. Tells me the crank has been ground 010/010.
And the pistons have a 040 stamped on them. Tells me the bore is 40 over.
Not as good of a find as I thought it was. And it changes my plans.
Not sure if I should try to reuse the crank(it appears in good shape visually, no scores) or just buy a new one, standard size. The point of buying this short block over a bare block was to save money by reusing the crank. I’m just not sure if my goal of 550-600hp would still work with the current crank.
I need to actually measure the bores, but I am fine with a 60 over. Does anyone have any thoughts on 60 over? From what I’ve read that is still plenty safe for big blocks with 600hp tops
Stay at 40 on the bores. Get crank Miked. If good, run it at 10. Post pic of crank. 2 or 4 bolt mains? And we don’t like 20 cut cranks. You cut a crank 10 and you are still in hard metal. Cut 20, you have cut through the surface hardness. Post bore pics too.
Last edited by derekderek; Jan 16, 2022 at 12:58 PM.
The bores are not the best shape; rust and scratches. the short block was kept outside under a carport for 14 years. I think boring out to 60 over would ensure good fresh metal. Even though it was kept outside I could turn the engine over by hand, it wasn’t seized at all. The crank, although ground 010/010 appears to be in good shape. All journals pass the fingernail test.
Reads like you're on a budget, nevertheless I'd like to mention that aluminum heads will save you over a hundred pounds off of the front of the car. That's a good place to loose a lot of weight.
Reads like you're on a budget, nevertheless I'd like to mention that aluminum heads will save you over a hundred pounds off of the front of the car. That's a good place to loose a lot of weight.
I do love spending money on the vette. However, I don’t want to get carried away with a 454 swap. Especially since my current small block only has 600 miles on it and has zero issues. I have no real reason to do a 454 swap other than I want to haha, so with that I’m trying to keep costs down.
Like most people here, I have spent more on my car than it’s worth, and this 454 swap will just add to that deficit lol
but yes the original plan was to find a solid bottom end and buy moderate aluminum heads for it. Still most likely the plan.
For hood clearance, a Performer rpm intake, holley 4150 with a 3" filter in a drop base ac and your stock hood will clear.
Edelbrock 750 with electric choke, non drop base and a 2" filter will close the hood also.