My mechanic pointed out that my rear strut bushings were totally shot. (Fortunately, the trailing arm bushings are OK . . . for now.)

Anyhow, I'm considering installing the VB&P adjustable struts. But I see Smart Struts for about $100 more. I don't do any autocrossing or anything, so is it worth the extra money for those?

Finally, can I replace the strut rods myself? If so, how can I check rear camber?

 

You can certainly do it yourself, but removing the shock mounts can be a big PITA! I had to knock the damn things real hard with a 5 pounder, almost knocking the car off of the jackstands!

If you decide to do it yourself (or even if you decide not to do it), start spraying lots of penetrating oil on those mounts now. Also get a shock mount removal tool.

As for the alignment, I just used a level and put the wheels vertical. That was close enough--the alignment guy didn't even have to touch the strut rods.

Can't tell whether the smart strut bracket is worth the extra $$$, 'coz I just got the adjustable struts.

:steering:
-Pedro


[Modified by Pedro'74, 2:06 PM 12/28/2002]

 

The adjustable struts have served me well for 7 years now. Tech tip. Purchase new lower shock bolts,and the shock bolt remover tool. I spent 8 hours with a torch and 2 lb. hammer using the correct shock bolt remover tool,and still screwed up the threads on the shock bolts. Nice to have them at this point. If you don't need them you can easily return them.

 

I do not mean to imply anything negative about the VB&P strut rods. They are fine. This is just a heads up. . . . .
The threads on one of my VB&P strut rods is badly gaulded after just a few adjustments. If I had it to do over again, I would put grease on the threads during inital assembly to prevent this.
Also, be sure to use Loc-Tight and firmly tighten the locking nuts as they tend to work loose. I think that there is a prefered direction to install them that causes them to self tighten vs. self loosen. Hopefully VB&P will chime in to clarify which way is best to to install the struts.

 

For your situation, I'd not get the smart struts. I believe that the example used in the catalog was using a '63 (or C2) strut rod configuation. I believe that the '68+ are better and the smart struts are even one step better.

I would not go with the smart struts because they add back in the cam adjustment (which they seem proud of to eliminate with the heavy duty rods). I'd also rather find a 1/2" spacer and buy some longer bolts which will do about the same as the smart struts without having the ability to fine tune the vertical placement of the inner rod "on the fly".

 

In the end I decided to go with a set of adjustable struts from Zip. The price was right, and I was already ordering some other stuff from them. It looked to me like the smart struts would have been too tight a fit next to my custom exhaust...

 

The cams on the smart struts are for setting your strut angle, not camber like in the stock system, in other words it adjusts the height at which the strut sits in the bracket. You main camber adjustment is still done with the sleeves like the other VBP strut rods. A lot would depend on your handling goals as to whether smart struts are needed are not.

:cheers:
Pat Kunz

 

My goals are very modest: replace the worn out strut bushings, and make adjusting camber easier (i.e., so I can do it!) :D I'm not autocrossing or anything -- just a weekend pleasure cruiser.

 

True, but changing the strut angle will change the camber setting. The point I was trying to make is that the smart struts have 2 places where the camber setting can change from the beating of street driving.

 

Ive just finished doing my strut rods and powder coated them and put in new bushings.:D:

Before you take the strut rods out get a punch and mark position of each camber adjustment washer. Then mark the strut rods so you know which way up and which way out they will come.:confused:

Damn important.

I found that if i undid the centre bolts of the strut rod i could tap out the bolt then move the strut rod clear of the inner mount. This puts less pressure on shock mount end when you go to remove it.

I then found my jack handle would fit over the shock mount. I put a little bit of tape over the thread to prevent damage and was able to use the leverage to break the bolt loose.
:lol:
Clean up strut rod thread and put nut on backwards till its flush with the end of the thread. This gives a flat surface that you can belt with a copper hammer- HARD. Watch your thumb.:mad: :mad:

Mine came out really easy. I used heaps of anti seize when putting back together.:cheers:

Use the marks to line it up with the camber washers and this should get you pretty close to an alignment although a shop should do the final check and alignment.

Make sure you get one who knows what they are doing. Before I owned my 77,the bubba at the last alignment shop welded the alignment washers to the inner diff mount :nono:


:cool: :cool: :cool: