When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
To the OP....what is your beef with a longer bolt?
Jebby
it's a long story Jebby, i was young and one time i will never forget that son of a..
oh ..wait..
- i wanted to go steel and original and keep thinking longer bolt is just a bandaid and want to stay away from tires.
- if anything i may try to shorten bolts but originals are not all the way threaded..
- i was in search of and like the 6 leaf as is but cold use an inch higher but half shafts still flat.
today unfortunately, no one seems to work on the refurbishing and or the replacements become 4x4.. interesting information about not getting the thinner steel.... but the 6 leaf is pretty thick, and wonder why they cannot be duplicated?
I just wish they can be reproduced.
until further information is found i will be re using my 6 leaf for now and continue to search and find answers,
Why not just put that steel spring (that you did a great job restoring!) on a shelf to admire, and run a nice composite spring. You'll have a better driving experience, and isn't that what matters?
Don't use 10" bolts with 15" wheels, but 8" bolts are more than enough with a low-arch spring.
Just ordered the 7 leaf hd eaton spring..should be interesting.
considered composite but costs have doubled, lead times long and imo questionable raw materials availability ..just a fact not a knock..
steel seems pretty bullet proof.
will update fit function and try to duplicate gray on bottom and sides with rust inhibitor on top.
Wow orderef monday delivered just now! Excited
called up detoit spring as the thickness with that giant spacer is 2.5 inches and old 6 leaf 2.3 with paint and 9 leaf 2-25 inch
they said ok to remove spacer and that should put me at 2.3..
looks real nice and identical dimensions on arch.
time to paint up and install after differential..!
i think the zinc rustoleum dries light and a good match to oem 93% zinc
Last edited by interpon; Mar 18, 2022 at 08:59 PM.
That cold galvanize looks like the ticket and when dries identical to oem..as only the bottom leaf will show painted, a spray from one side and eges then a wipe from a rubber gloved finger simulates the original sponge or wallpaper brush originally.
then final light spray to cover where finger rubbed to metal.
man the fumes off that stuff is strong
the rest will just get a quick spray on concave side only.
will be looking for a rust inhibitor for convex side
Other than needing to add a plastic spacer as the spring was missing the top one (stole from 6 leaf) the spring appears to be perfect.
used fluid film for top of spring like factory and zinc for the rest.
lowering the car for final torque 33 pounds and a couple jounces no spare i got 28.5 and 28.75 to lip and appears as factory but have not measured from frame yet and no spare. It was 3/4 off side to side.
axles appear slightly positive.
so far so good. If i get differential and rxhaust in a test drive may be Sunday!
You do know you need to roll it forward & backwards a couple times at least, for 3-4 feet minimum, to get the lateral scrub out of the rear tires so that the suspension can settle all the way down? Then bounce it and take your ride height measurements.
Based on what I am seeing here though, it looks like your rear ride height is perfect.
And do not believe anyone that tells you the spring will "settle" after you drive it a few hundred miles. That is the biggest & oldest incorrect "myth" still going around.
BTW I absolutely LOVE how clean & neat your entire undercarriage is. I can only hope that mine will come out that well.
You do know you need to roll it forward & backwards a couple times at least, for 3-4 feet minimum, to get the lateral scrub out of the rear tires so that the suspension can settle all the way down? Then bounce it and take your ride height measurements.
Based on what I am seeing here though, it looks like your rear ride height is perfect.
And do not believe anyone that tells you the spring will "settle" after you drive it a few hundred miles. That is the biggest & oldest incorrect "myth" still going around.
BTW I absolutely LOVE how clean & neat your entire undercarriage is. I can only hope that mine will come out that well.
thank you.. i had time to clean working on differential..
well put 20 mules on no highway and i get 28 nches passenger and 27.5 drvers side so the difference reduced 1/4 inch but similiar. I like the way ot sits so maybe i got lucky. Or they are perfecting the springs. They had an option to reduce height from stocki am glad I didn’t. Tough to get clear pics of half shaft but assume fairly level.
no harsh ride at all and with tight yokes now handles as good as new!
I'm in the process of restoring my 7 leaf 1968 spring. I have it apart and cleaning the leafs. The first 2 springs I was able to get them down to shinny steel with a wire wheel. The third spring not so much. It has dark corrosion on the flats that is really hard to get off. I have tried 4 different types of wheels on it. Is it important to get the leafs down to raw steel or not worry because they will be covered my the leaf spring liners? Each spring should be painted with gray all over? I'm not really going for perfect original, just a gray color like it was in the past.
ALSO,,,,, you put 6 spacers/liners between the springs. When I look online they only have 5 liners. I guess the top leaf doesn't need a liner.
I'm in the process of restoring my 7 leaf 1968 spring. I have it apart and cleaning the leafs. The first 2 springs I was able to get them down to shinny steel with a wire wheel. The third spring not so much. It has dark corrosion on the flats that is really hard to get off. I have tried 4 different types of wheels on it. Is it important to get the leafs down to raw steel or not worry because they will be covered my the leaf spring liners? Each spring should be painted with gray all over? I'm not really going for perfect original, just a gray color like it was in the past.
ALSO,,,,, you put 6 spacers/liners between the springs. When I look online they only have 5 liners. I guess the top leaf doesn't need a liner.
yes 5 you need 6.. no clue why the don’t have 6, luckily i had extra..
see post 25..use the cold galvanize…only the bottom and sides get gray..they were literally brushed on before assembly the springs were assembled and bare on the other side and the entire spring was dipped in corrosion inhibitor..i used Fluid Film..the corrosion can above and wiped off..
if your spring works and no issues by all means clean her up..
I am getting the cold galvanized paint tomorrow. I looked it up and the 7 leaf didn't come with a liner between the top two leafs. Not a big deal, not like there is much flex on the top two leaves. Thanks,,,, I'm looking forwards to a gray spring.
I think I will use some graphite lube between the liners and leaves. This will cut down on the interleaf spring friction.
I am getting the cold galvanized paint tomorrow. I looked it up and the 7 leaf didn't come with a liner between the top two leafs. Not a big deal, not like there is much flex on the top two leaves. Thanks,,,, I'm looking forwards to a gray spring.
I think I will use some graphite lube between the liners and leaves. This will cut down on the interleaf spring friction.
i used this stuff (CRC) leftover from squeaky brakes.. does not attack plastic..or paint.. used it where the spring touches with ot without plastic..
Started cleaning up the 7 leaf and found these things.
this is the number I found. 2-25-294 24 21 i think, kind of hard to see,,,, and a symbol. ST.
Anybody know what they are?
After cleaning the springs with soap and water, alcohol very well,,,,, with and without primer, more than 24 hrs drying time in super dry, warm weather, the Rust-oleum professional cold galvanized gray paint isn't worth a crap. DO NOT use it for the springs. It doesn't adhere to the steel, scratches off with your finger nail. I have it curing in the sun today and hope it gets better.
After cleaning the springs with soap and water, alcohol very well,,,,, with and without primer, more than 24 hrs drying time in super dry, warm weather, the Rust-oleum professional cold galvanized gray paint isn't worth a crap. DO NOT use it for the springs. It doesn't adhere to the steel, scratches off with your finger nail. I have it curing in the sun today and hope it gets better.
it's a long drying process.. it is zinc as well.. it will harden to a rock.. at least mine did
Dry and recoat times are based on 70°F and 50% relative humidity. Allow more time at cooler temperatures. Dries to touch in 15 minutes, to handle in 1-2 hours and fully dry in 24 hours. Recoat within 1 hour or after 24 hours. If a topcoat is desired, use a latex coating.
shake the crap out of it.. its 93% zinc, which added lubricity to the springs
Yes, thanks,,,, It has been 80* + here sunny and 15% humidity, good painting weather. Waiting for the rubber spacers. ZIP has all the parts,,,, even 9/16 castle nuts for the end bolts.
