Hi All,
Hoping someone can help me troubleshoot this issue(s) I'm having. Car starts and runs fine most of the time. On occasion, I go to start it and get absolutely nothing (no cranking), but radio and light work. Other times I go to start it and it will crank but won't start, then I'll try again and it will struggle to crank, then try again hear the solenoid clicking but still trying to crank. Battery sits at about 12.5V. When I try to start it, but battery will drop down to about 8.5V (while cranking), then back up to 12.5 after car starts or I stop trying to start it. Then it will start right up an hour later. I changed the starter solenoid because someone told me that is the issue, but it didn't change anything. I can troubleshoot and fix some stuff, but am lost when electrical is involved. Seems like their might be two separate issues here
1. trying to start and zero cranking (just basically dead) but getting power to radio and lights
2. Battery wearing down quickly when trying to start and getting solenoid sound.
Car is 1970, 350hp, manual transmission.
Battery is only a couple years old and has a trickle charger on it.
Battery cable are clean and tight.
also had some short belt squeaking (maybe alternator belt), but belt seems to be running fine.
the solenoid clicking sound sounded like it was coming from around the alternator (not sure if that makes any sense)
My next option is to buy a new Battery but now I'm just throwing parts at it....Was hoping for some guidance

 

LOTS of possibilities but I'd start with a load test of the battery.

 

check ignition switch that the key tumbler
moves.
located top of column above feet area

 

Always check the ground under the car, as this tends to be a simple fix with battery issues.

 

After checking all the above investigate the switch on the clutch pedal, if it is not working correctly, the starter will not turn, even if the transmission is in neutral. An ohm meter is an easy way to test the switch without removal. Use Google to see pictures of it’s location on the clutch arm/bracket.

 

Clean both cables on their ends and check each cable's condition. If they are not clean and tight, problems can be as you described. That's after load testing the battery as mentioned. Good luck...

 

Thank you all for your responses and suggestions!
Listing them out here:
1. Do a load test on Battery - taking it to Autozone today to have this preformed.
2. Battery cables are in good condition and attached firmly to the battery
3. Ground cable is securely attached underneath the car
4. Check Switch on clutch pedal -



5. Check Ignition switch


Any help on how to test the clutch and ignition switch would be helpful.

 

I believe the clutch seitch is a simple on/off.
Just set your DVM to Ohms and check the resistance. With the switch in one position it should be near 0 Ohms, and in the max other positon it should be infinite Ohms.
While a sketchy switch could momentarily test ok, you could also hot wire the connector (car in neutral, ebrake on) off the switch to see if your problem persists.