So I kicked the wife's chrysler 300 out of the garage and took it over to move ahead on my engine swap project.. So I've got most everything disconnected except for removing the shorty headers, disconnecting the torque converter bolts and a few other minor items. I also got the radiator out which was a bit of a bugger doing it by myself. I'm starting to feel like I'm getting too old to do this.
Here are some pics:

Rad support and condenser

Engine bay front

Ras tag with number

Engine bay
Question: the rad has a little tag with a number on it and made in USA. I tried to research it but couldn't find any info. Does anyone know what it might indicate. Vette is a 73 L82 model.

 

Another question: Flex lines vs. factory style hard lines. Pros and cons. Mine are pretty buggered and needs to be replaced.
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Don't know much about automatic transmission lines. Other than I wouldn't want them.
However, have you thought about pulling that distributor completely to avoid damage?

 

Keep the pictures coming, this job is on my summer list.

 

Replace the trans lines while you have the motor out if yours are buggered up. The radiator did not have to come out. I just recently posted a picture of the removal of a SB in a 77. I even left the shroud on and there is clearance. It comes out tight but it does fit and I did it with only me. Just slow and easy.

 

I have steel braided lines on my TH350. Have for 10 years now no issues. A lot easier to work with vs the hard lines. Put a trans cooler in with the high stall converter.

 

4-vettes,

Yeah, I gotta pull the distributor as it's in the way of more easy access to the bolt that hold the trans dipstick and vacuum tube. And yeah, don't want to bugger it up.

 

Gordonm,

I recall reading your thread about how you pulled your engine by yourself and that's what I'm doing as well. Done it before but never on a vette. I pulled the rad because I've got an aluminum rad to replace it with. As an aside, I wasn't going to remove the hood but as I've got a new parallel flow condenser to replace the one that's in there it looks too tight to get it out.

 

Pull the hood. That should have been the first thing to do. Takes 5 minutes with a helper.

 

and before you pull the hood, trace your hinges with a sharpie or paint marker so you can get it lined back up easily when you put it back on

 

Drilling two small holes through the hinge mount will also work. You can use the drill bits to line up the hinge when you reassemble.

 

I remove everything possible before pulling.
That includes heads.

Mark wires and bag screws with description of location.

Not about weight but about not damaging things because the overall size is bigger than it could be disassembled.

Tricky decisions come when deciding how complete the engine is on re-installing.

don't rush,

good luck

 

You guys are making way more work than is needed. There is plenty of room. Just make the lifting chain short. Hood does not even come close.

 

true.

 

Reelav8r,

Yeah, thanks. I'm leaning toward the braided lines as well. They look nicer too! I see some vendors selling -6AN and other -8AN (3/8" vs. 1/2"). What's correct? Seems the larger size would potentially move more volume depending on other restrictions. Where did you put the trans cooler? In from of the condenser? (so trans cooler, condenser, rad, seems like a lot of stuff for air to get through?)

And yeah, I'm going with a 2400 stall converter vs. what I'm guessing is the stock unit (has a D4 stamp on it).

 

The braided Hoses vary from manufacturer but the hardware is readily available and the hoses are fairly easy to make as you need them. I stock three sizes of SS Braided hose and have a kit that makes installing them a breeze. Depending on the fluid being used they might need to be lined. The use PTFE linings in the tubes used with fuels.

I am currently building a -4 AN S.S, braided hoses for my water/methanol injection system. That system operates at 150 psi so the -4 AN should be more than enough to handle injecting the fluid from both sides of the intake manifold in the volumes I need. I figured the SS Braided lines would look more like a Nitrous system which I don't have, (yet). If you are planning on building a few lines then it is worth buying the Koul Tools for the size hoses you plan on making, they are so worth their cost.

The SS Braided hoses look great and last a long time if taken care of. If they get abraded on anything near the engine then they look like poop so put covers over the hoses where they might rub. Getting the right fittings is never as easy so be sure to make a list of what you need that you can add part numbers to later on. Decide on a color and go from there.

 

I believe mine are 3/8". I installed the cooler between the radiator and the A/C condenser.. It would not fit in front of the condenser with the hood up. Would have preferred it in front of the condenser however.
Using a 3000+ stall on my Th350 and the cooler's been adequate for the last 8 years or so.

 

I cut the barbs off the stock steel lines in the engine bay and used hard line to 6AN compression connectors, and then braided line from there up to my TBI.

 

Mr D.

Here's some more pics as requested.

Project is going well. I'm down to my last two bolts on the engine mounts to remove before pulling the engine out. A friend of mine came over Saturday to deliver dinner for my wife who broke her fibula and tibia bones near her ankle while we were in Hawaii last month. So, i got him to help me remove the hood while he was here. He's an amazing fabricator of almost anything you can think of. He's the one who's going to modify those budgets (Impala) CA's I bought as he's got a milling machine, can do the needed welding, etc.

Tilt-lifting bar attached to F/B of heads.

Front left wheel off so picker can slide under the side of car.

Got 2nd smaller lift with board under trans pan to hold it up after engine is moved forward.

Better pic of trans w/jack.

Here's how I removed the flexplace/torque converter bolts as someone on CF suggested. Worked great! Thanks for the idea!

 

Here are some more pics post engine removal today. Got the old non correct sb out of the car and on one of those engine stands with the wheels. I have a low 7-foot roof in my garage, With the car on jack stands which elevated it some and the garage door opener hardware a little lower than 7 feet, the engine just made it out of the car clearing the fender and door hw. Whew, it was close. I haven't done one of these in a very long time. It was fun but somewhat nerve-racking.

Now on to all the other stuff before the new engine gets installed (Borgeson, AC upgrade parts, Aluminum Rad, Control Arms, etc.).

Empty engine bay! Time to clean and upgrade some wiring.

Front cross member looks to be in pretty good nick. Just dirty.

Engine readied to be put on stand.

The old and the new. Time to call it a day!

Parts staging table, loose stuff bagged and tagged!