Does any body know where I can get a 31 spline 1350 outer stub axle kit I tried tom's and vansteel there on back order thanks .

 

If price is not an issue.

 

Don't forget to add in the $4200 bare posi case.

 

Cheap at twice the price

If I had their money, I’d throw mine away

 

What I want to do is just replace the trailing arm outer stub axle to a 31 spline 1350 and your saying I have to replace my posi case now too .

 

What I want to do is just replace the trailing arm outer stub axle to a 31 spline 1350 and your saying I have to replace my posi case now too .

 

Sorry I think you missed my point.

 

Yes I did and so your saying just the trailing arm axle can not be upgraded to a 31 spline with out changing the differential housing .

 

The weakest link will always be the one to break. Upgrading one part moves the weakest link to somewhere else.
Better question is: How much HP and abuse are you asking the IRS to handle. All stock they start breaking parts past 400 ish HP.

 

The hp rating at crank will be about 620 hp and about 580 trq my trans is a t56 rated at 700 and later will upgrade as needed half shafts and a stout rear end .

 

The hp rating at crank will be about 620 hp and about 580 trq my trans is a t56 rated at 700 and later will upgrade as needed half shafts and a stout rear end .

 

Dammit I keep hitting submit twice .

 

you can delete posts in edit. and Gary was saying you need to do all of it or treat your 509 like it is a 350 until you do...

 

got it well its a 434 small block but still has decent power and for right now just the outer will have to do and Mark Williams way expensive .

 

i juast assumed 509 rat was the engine. that will break anything. hit edit. hit delete. then look down low on left for a delete button u also have to hit.

 

I think what Gary is suggesting is that the stock posi case will not take the torque you are going to apply to it.
There have been a few recent threads about how many cracked posi cases members are finding inside the rear differentials and how hard it was for them to find ones not already cracked.
You will be basically putting out the same torque and horsepower as my 496.
Gary built my Super 10 Bolt and everything inside and outside was upgraded.
As long as I drive it like a normal human being I’m confident it will hold together.
If I was going to race it or drive it hard, Gary suggested that I should go to a 12 bolt with 1480’s because I’m right on the edge.
If it was me, I would baby it along until I could go with one of Gary’s complete Super 10 bolt set ups or jump up to a 12 bolt with 1480’s if you plan pushing hard on the go pedal.
Trust me, I do somewhat regret building the engine I did for this Corvette.

 

Don't say it Greg! lol

 

Well, you have 2 threads going on the same subject so I will just respond here, only because I opened this page.

My point was that since Tom passed away some, 2 in particular, are out after his business. Interestingly both of those places reached out to me 2.5 years to ask how to build them. Some of what I see on some sites I am not impressed with but that doesn't matter. Some will pay for a name without checking into them, and that statement applies to a lot of things on forums. I never intended to question the diff in your car since you didn't ask about that. You should buy and use whose ever brand you like.

Tom's outer axles have been used by 100's if not 1000's of guys over the years. I never had a Tom's 31 spline axle fail, never. I am waiting for them for a couple of reasons. One, l like to back those I know and who have befriended me. Two, I know those axles and helped proof them in the past. Unless something changed with them, and that is not what I was told, I will wait for them as opposed to going elsewhere. That's me, you and others have to make up your own mind.

31's do not setup as stock 17's and there's a lot of people assembling 17's wrong. I have a set of 31's in now in fact that were nowhere close to setup correctly and they didn't even know how to install the inner seals, so they just let them sit on the bearings- doing nothing. Some of the YouTube videos on rear bearings are terrible, others are better but I haven't seen one yet that shows how they can be dialed in. The misconception is 002" is the magic number and that will get you close but there is more to it. I used to go over all that when I held seminars at Carlisle. You mentioned in your other thread you just had the arms rebuilt and they failed, now you expect that shop to build 31's?

Sorry I'm not trying to sound too critical here, but I see a lot of misinformation out there in the web world.

I wish you no ill will, good luck with your decision and hope it works better this time around for you.

 

I do respect your expertise in the matter and no I will not have the same guy rebuild my trailing arms and also will wait for the Tom's parts to come in, so basically I have trailing arms that are pretty much like the old units before I rebuilt them kinda sucks. I think I can run the way it is as I have not installed the 434 yet .