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Are these cracks??

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Old Mar 18, 2022 | 06:07 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Gearhead74
I had something happen once while driving normally at highway speeds. I was near a Corvette shop so I limped there and left the car with them. Since I never really saw what they saw, I have to guess as to what happened. I think I let the lash on my solid lifter cam get too loose and for a brief moment the valve hit the piston. I did not have damage to the head nor to the piston and I drove it for some time afterwards without apparent problems. However, when I pulled the engine for a rebuild, I discovered the incident had bent the connecting rod fairly significantly. I mention this on;y to suggest that if no further work is required to the rotating parts, and you still have the head off, rotate the crank and double check that all four pistons in that bank achieve an equal top of stroke height. A bent connecting rod will leave the piston deeper in the hole and you'll lose compression in that cylinder. I did and never knew it.
Hmm I hadn’t thought that. I’ll reverify all make equal stroke.

Originally Posted by '78CorvetteS.A.
At this point, I would pull the other head as well! I'd have that one checked and cleaned too....what kind of valve seals do you have? I'd make sure they all get get some good positive-lock seals installed if not already. The majority of the disassembly is done, I'd check both heads and clean all of the piston tops! Something to consider👍
I have Comp Cams 503-16 valve seals
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Old Mar 18, 2022 | 06:41 PM
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valves too loose will not make a valve hit the piston. and there would be a clear mark in the valve relief where it did hit. and on the edge of the valve. if you have compression, fuel and timing anywhere close and it will pop. will even pop 180 degrees out. pop thru carb, but it will pop. HEI? buy a 30 buck ebay distributor. start it. then swap parts in yours until it runs.. then buy that part. module, pickup coil, whatever and have a whole spare distributor. try yours one more time with starting fluid after reassembly. timing light? does it flash while cranking? hand your wile a plug wire. crank it. does she get really mad at you? you have spark...
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Old Mar 18, 2022 | 06:54 PM
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Originally Posted by derekderek
valves too loose will not make a valve hit the piston. and there would be a clear mark in the valve relief where it did hit. and on the edge of the valve. if you have compression, fuel and timing anywhere close and it will pop. will even pop 180 degrees out. pop thru carb, but it will pop. HEI? buy a 30 buck ebay distributor. start it. then swap parts in yours until it runs.. then buy that part. module, pickup coil, whatever and have a whole spare distributor. try yours one more time with starting fluid after reassembly. timing light? does it flash while cranking? hand your wile a plug wire. crank it. does she get really mad at you? you have spark...
Whenever i tried starting it before tear down it would fire like it wanted to start, it did that over and over again but would never start. I used a spark test one you plug into the wire and onto the spark plug and is clear in the middle to check spark and i could visibly see a bright yellow spark. It did on occasion backfire through the carb and catch the top of carb on fire, it did that twice before I gave up on her. but it would never start and run after that morning it broke down.
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Old Apr 1, 2022 | 08:52 PM
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Hey guys me again. Same block as before except completely tore down now. And uh. Found this.


Saveable or new block time?
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Old Apr 2, 2022 | 07:28 AM
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so, you snapped #8 connecting rod. anything can be repaired. we don't know anything about the block. numbers matching to the car and special? it is a 4 bolt. but a lot are. if the numbers natch, put it in the corner and decide later. if not get 10 cents a pound for it. now, go find a 96-02 chevy express van that popped the intake gasket and take that 4 bolt roller vortec block and start over. you may be able to re-ring it and go. my 01 gmc savana had a gallon of water in the pan when i bought it. put heads on it and have done 2 round trips from jersey to florida so far. you give GM engineers 40 years to improve an engine and they are gonna improve that engine... where is home for you? i am good at finding stuff.
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Old Apr 2, 2022 | 07:41 AM
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clean off the oil and take it to a machine shop and have it magnafluxed. If its severely cracked junk it or have it sleeved. THat area is below the rings so its not critical area. The machinist will give you an educated answer to different possibilities, not a bunch of keyboard hacks saying this or that. The only legitimate reason to save a severely cracked block is if its a rare big block or its a numbers matching block
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Old Apr 2, 2022 | 09:17 AM
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i believe that is a major light leak in the bottom of the cylinder.
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Old Apr 2, 2022 | 08:56 PM
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the rings are well above that chip unless there is a crack that runs up the cylinder bore
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Old Apr 2, 2022 | 09:04 PM
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i saved image and blew it up. pretty sure it is a hole into water jacket.
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Old Apr 2, 2022 | 09:13 PM
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Originally Posted by derekderek
i saved image and blew it up. pretty sure it is a hole into water jacket.
then that is very bad....and an anchor, unless its a numbers matching motor and the OP wants to spend some money on a costly repair
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Old Apr 3, 2022 | 03:42 PM
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I went and bought a new block. Same cast numbers and also a 4 bolt and a plus of it is it’s not been bored before. Now I Just gotta bring new one to machine shop and Rebore
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Old Apr 3, 2022 | 03:52 PM
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new block? or better used block? boring it to these .030 pistons? or starting over with new stuff? did that rod break? if so, you need a crank too. so you may want to consider a fully balanced rotating assy. and in that case, 383 may make more sense...
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Old Apr 3, 2022 | 04:15 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by derekderek
new block? or better used block? boring it to these .030 pistons? or starting over with new stuff? did that rod break? if so, you need a crank too. so you may want to consider a fully balanced rotating assy. and in that case, 383 may make more sense...
better uses block. Trying to buy a brand new block now is a hassle. And I’m going with an entirely new rotating assembly going with a 383 or boring it .60 over and having a 388 but I’ll probably just go with the 383

Also no rods were broke. All the bearings were ate up though.
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Old Apr 3, 2022 | 06:54 PM
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then what ate that lower corner of the #8 cylinder? and 383-388. balance is usually external. so a flywheel and balancer will need to be matched to the rotating assy. unless it will be neutral balanced. 6 inch rods should be looked into, but a bit harder with longer stroke. but also more needed with longer stroke. and now your inadequate stock heads just became more inadequate.
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Old Apr 3, 2022 | 07:56 PM
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Originally Posted by derekderek
then what ate that lower corner of the #8 cylinder? and 383-388. balance is usually external. so a flywheel and balancer will need to be matched to the rotating assy. unless it will be neutral balanced. 6 inch rods should be looked into, but a bit harder with longer stroke. but also more needed with longer stroke. and now your inadequate stock heads just became more inadequate.
I believe it was the lifter it ate a few months ago. I planned on buying one of the balanced rotating kits from summit. And heads had already been decided upon buying some new AFR ones those got to the house the other day.
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