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Some of you have been keeping up with my progress my 1981 overhaul,so got the heads on with no problem,other than did have to shave 2 washers to get them set,but putting on my Intake and I thought enough on my china walls,and the end closest to the fire wall had sealant on the outside but the other end closest to the fan blade had no sealant at all down,so do you think I needed more sealant on that end,should you see sealant on the outside?
Normally, Yes you see a little bit of sealant squish out. Perhaps you have enough, Hard to tell. you will know if you have a leak. Generally a 1/4 inch bead is about right.
Shave two washers? H-m-m-m-m-m-. Somethings not right. Those ARPs?
In the ARP headbolt kit for SBC you get:
16 short bolts (8 per head)
14 long bolts (7 per head)
4 med bolts (2 per head)
By chance did you put the mediums bolts in the wrong spot?
If The Right Stuff is NOT seen oozing out at front & rear china walls, you went too light on the application. When applying its almost like a welding bead. Applying the bead correctly is an art.
One can't just squeeze it like toothpaste on a toothbrush. Too much and the goop breaks off into the lifter valley. Not enough goop and it leaks.
Applying to the outside of the wall gap might work, but doubtful. I have tried that before & failed. (leaks)
You are in a predicament now. To do the job over and correctly would entail Intake removal, new gaskets.
Last edited by HeadsU.P.; Apr 5, 2022 at 08:15 PM.
Shave two washers? H-m-m-m-m-m-. Somethings not right. Those ARPs?
In the ARP headbolt kit for SBC you get:
16 short bolts (8 per head)
14 long bolts (7 per head)
4 med bolts (2 per head)
By chance did you put the mediums bolts in the wrong spot?
If The Right Stuff is NOT seen oozing out at front & rear china walls, you went too light on the application. When applying its almost like a welding bead. Applying the bead correctly is an art.
One can't just squeeze it like toothpaste on a toothbrush. Too much and the goop breaks off into the lifter valley. Not enough goop and it leaks.
Applying to the outside of the wall gap might work, but doubtful. I have tried that before & failed. (leaks)
You are in a predicament now. To do the job over and correctly would entail Intake removal, new gaskets.
I wonder if he means the center bolts the sometimes need to be trimmed because they partially interfere with the valve seat area on some heads.
Yea,the middle bolt on the head in between two springs,it’s not enough clearance for the washer to fit flush,I could of had taken the spring off,then set the washer in then put spring back,but for me it was easier to shave a little off one side,it fit perfect then,but they had on the instructions you could remove spring or trim washer for fit.
Yea,if I had to do it again,I think I would prefer to use a gun instead of trying to squeeze out of a tube,but did do a bead type layer good thick bead,and I used permatex sealant #2 clear.I know it seals.but,I hadn’t put the carburetor on,just the intake,but,it must be some way to check for a leak with either air or water,some how?
Shave two washers? H-m-m-m-m-m-. Somethings not right. Those ARPs?
In the ARP headbolt kit for SBC you get:
16 short bolts (8 per head)
14 long bolts (7 per head)
4 med bolts (2 per head)
By chance did you put the mediums bolts in the wrong spot?
If The Right Stuff is NOT seen oozing out at front & rear china walls, you went too light on the application. When applying its almost like a welding bead. Applying the bead correctly is an art.
One can't just squeeze it like toothpaste on a toothbrush. Too much and the goop breaks off into the lifter valley. Not enough goop and it leaks.
Applying to the outside of the wall gap might work, but doubtful. I have tried that before & failed. (leaks)
You are in a predicament now. To do the job over and correctly would entail Intake removal, new gaskets.
Actually, Edelbrock in their installation instruction state that you may have to clearance some cylinder head bolt washers:
Yea,the middle bolt on the head in between two springs,it’s not enough clearance for the washer to fit flush,I could of had taken the spring off,then set the washer in then put spring back,but for me it was easier to shave a little off one side,it fit perfect then,but they had on the instructions you could remove spring or trim washer for fit.
Now a get it. I thought you meant shave the thickness, not the diameter.
I never had Eddy heads.
Yea,if I had to do it again,I think I would prefer to use a gun instead of trying to squeeze out of a tube,but did do a bead type layer good thick bead,and I used permatex sealant #2 clear.I know it seals.but,I hadn’t put the carburetor on,just the intake,but,it must be some way to check for a leak with either air or water,some how?
Wait a minute.
Permatex sealant #2 clear? On the China Walls?
I don't believe that's oil resistant.
You may have to start over and use the proper sealant. The Right Stuff. Its Permatex Black, oil resistant.
The gaskets are $14. So for that price and an hour labor you can redo it before continuing on.
Yea,no big problem,I can ****** it off,because I sure would love to see the walls,and will give me a good idea how big a bead I need,and get the right stuff.and Im pretty sure I can take the intake off without disturbing the gaskets.I didn’t put a lot around the port holes,because thankfully these felpro gaskets have silicon already around them.so,other than a little time,I’d rather be safe than sorry.
You are not out much at this point. Dizzy & carb & throttle linkage not installed.
You should not be able to save the gaskets.
Save yourself a lot of grief and avoid doing this a third time. Don't save the gaskets. They should rip into shreds if you applied sealant properly. And the correct sealant. However, because the engine was never run / heat cycle, the gaskets should scrape off easily. Do Not Reuse!
The gaskets are only $14 or so. If you have to wait a week to get them, no big deal. You are not obligated to get your Vette on the road pronto.
You can't rely on built-in silicone (Printo seal) to keep oil, gas, coolant and vacuum in place where it belongs. No other gasket on the engine contains all four of these items.
It is imperative that the Intake gasket be perfectly sealed with the best sealants available.
After all old gasket & sealant has been removed, wipe down mating surfaces with a rag doused in Acetone.
This Intake install is not a place to take short-cuts to save a couple bucks.
Yes,I understand for sure,and at this point I’m definitely not in any hurry. But I didn’t load either the block or intake side with a lot of sealant did that to the walls,but did pull intake off and didn’t disturb the gasket still stuck to the block on each side,so not sure why it would shred apart.its a brand new gasket,and do see where it would have sealed on the walls.but I probably did put a little more sealant on the block side,but I just took a plastic putty knives several types and stuck it between the intake and gasket and gently with a 4lb hammer popped it twice on each side,intake came off and gasket stayed on,the only reason I would get another gasket is if I can’t clean this side,which I’m sure I can.and redo with the right stuff. Thanks again
Yes,I understand for sure,and at this point I’m definitely not in any hurry. But I didn’t load either the block or intake side with a lot of sealant did that to the walls,but did pull intake off and didn’t disturb the gasket still stuck to the block on each side,so not sure why it would shred apart.its a brand new gasket,and do see where it would have sealed on the walls.but I probably did put a little more sealant on the block side,but I just took a plastic putty knives several types and stuck it between the intake and gasket and gently with a 4lb hammer popped it twice on each side,intake came off and gasket stayed on,the only reason I would get another gasket is if I can’t clean this side,which I’m sure I can.and redo with the right stuff. Thanks again
LOL! Sometimes, ya just have to roll those dice and see what happens!
So,got the gaskets off,and will admit they weren’t coming off.but rather be safe than sorry,and I have plenty of time I apologize and stand corrected,and can admit when I’m wrong,lol....after about 5 minutes of trying to get that damn clear #2 sealant off,around the ports,it’s not worth my time trying to clean them,I afraid it might not seal. It was harder to get it off the intake than I thought.
I am a gambling man,but prefer doing that on a golf course,where at least I think I have the advantage,lol....so,decided to just remove the gasket,I don’t like having doubts so,I will sleep much better at night.
Today must of been my lucky day,so,I have to have this exact gasket which is Edelbrock gasket 7201,and it came with the intake,so,it’s $25.00 from Summit plus shipping another 11.00 and tax,= $40.00.lol.I live in a small town,but we do have your normal auto places like advance,auto zone,Napa,and a Oriellys,which I don’t go to very much but do know they sell Edelbrock stuff on their shelves,well,I be dog gone,he had to look a few minutes but he found it,he blew the dust off it and said $28.00 with tax.so,now don’t even have to wait on the gasket got it.but,am curious did get the ultra black,but what do you normally use around the water ports?
There, the water ports get a clear RTV. It will only need to seal glycol.
Looking at the valvetrain, very-very dry. If you start it up like that, you will have abnormal wear, quickly.
Because everything is brand new it will take a while for the oil to reach the valves.
Back to the store. See if they have a bottle of Break-In Lube. Drizzle the rockers, pushrods, springs, retainers, etc.
You did get the Ultra Black? But not The Right Stuff?
use the china wall gaskets as holders for the long gaskets. glue them to the head with right stuff or good black RTV your choice. thread a few intake bolts in the holes. let gasket set onto heads. now pull the china wall gaskets and do the sealer on the china walls and install. you got to see the 2 side gaskets in place and stuck so you know they will still be there when the manifold is dropped on.