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I'm in the middle of a Borgeson install for my 73-factory power steering car and reviewed a lot of threads and videos. I've got the old stuff out and am at the point of installing the Borgeson box in the car. I've also got the Ridetech reinforcement bracket. I've collapsed the steering column shaft about 2.5" (used wood block and 3# sledge) and have been test fitting the Borgeson rag joint. The factory rag joint goes on/off the column easy with its retaining bolt out (but not with it in/loose), but the equivalent Borgens piece does not want to go on easy. I think this is because the splined end is high where the retaining bolt goes.
Question 1: do I just go ahead and bang it on or what?
Question 2: I saw a CF thread where the guy used the factory part of the rag joint that goes on the column and connected it to the opposing Borgeson part, is that ok to do? If so, I think I like that better as it goes on easy, and I can lock it down on the factory flat area vs. somehow having to file the column for the Borgeson set screw.
Question 3: Do you have to align the Borgeson box somehow with the steering column like finding its center (I locked steering made sure wheels were centered before removing parts) I get about 3 full turns and a little bit more, So, like 11/2 turns plus a bit is about center?
I used the original column side rag joint bracket on mine, as it was MUCH easier to reinstall on the shaft.
You will, however, need to drill out the 2 factory holes in the original bracket to accept the larger diameter bolts on the Borgeson rah joint. Easy peazey.
Hope this helps!!
On a side note, check your lower steering column bearing prior to reassembly. If there’s any play in it, go ahead and replace it as well. My bearing fell apart when I was collapsing my column. I was very inexpensive and pretty easy to install.
I used the original column side rag joint bracket on mine, as it was MUCH easier to reinstall on the shaft.
You will, however, need to drill out the 2 factory holes in the original bracket to accept the larger diameter bolts on the Borgeson rah joint. Easy peazey.
Hope this helps!!
On a side note, check your lower steering column bearing prior to reassembly. If there’s any play in it, go ahead and replace it as well. My bearing fell apart when I was collapsing my column. I was very inexpensive and pretty easy to install.
If your lucky, the steering shaft will move in with some light hits. The bearing on mine was rusted to the shaft and I had to break the bearing and grind it off before I could collapse my steering wheel. Protect the end with wood as you tap it with a hammer. It is hard to tell based on your photos how rusty the steering column is.
Jarhead,
Thanks for that info. I compared the two side by side and they look the same dimensionally. So I'll just have to drill out the holes in the factory piece. Nice
And I'll check out that bearing for sure.
Last edited by Basque32; Apr 13, 2022 at 12:40 AM.
gjohnson,
I tried the wire wheel, but it didn't help. I called Borgeson, spoke to a tech, Gil, explained the fitment issue and he said if it didn't go one easily then he suggested using a flat file on the splines. I told him the factory column part of the rag joint went on easily and asked if that could be used with the Borgeson rag joint part that's on the box and he said yes. That's what I ended up doing. Thanks for the feedback.
So today I got the Borgeson steering box in the car along with the Ridetech bracket. I ended up using the factory rag join on the column and matted it with the Borgeson opposing part on their box. I did call Borgeson about the fitment issue with their column piece and the tech suggested using a flat file on the splines. He also said it should be ok to mate the two rag joint pieces like I ended up doing. However, I now have an issue with reinstalling the pitman arm to the drag link adapter. It's off by about 1/2" or so. I had asked the Borgeson tech about clocking the box to my already centered wheels with regards to how many turns it took and he confirmed it was one and half plus a little more as lock-to-lock it 3 turns a just a bit more. I didn't confirm, but my guess is they come from the factory centered. Anyway, the difference with the "bit more" might be what I'm off or you have to use their rag joint column piece as it can go on in any position but getting that done it a bit fiddly it seems. I guess I could just turn the wheel and adjust out the end links eyeballing for straightness then take to the alignment shop?
If anyone has suggestions on how to resolve this otherwise, I'm all ears. Pic of course. Borgeson Steering Box installed Ridetech Bracket Pitman arm to drag link alignment off Another pic of drag link to pitman arm
The pitman to drag link shouldn't be an issue, there's plenty of adjustment in the tie rod ends to correct that.
Exactly. Make sure the box is centered, and bolted to the centered steering wheel. Then adjust the tie rods to track straight. You can lengthen one, and shorten the other the same. Even better, take it to get aligned after. Even betterer, follow @cagotzmann's DIY alignment method.
Thanks for confirming that. The box is centered and the I locked the steering wheel with the wheels straight before disassembly of the old PS box and ram, etc. So I just need to adjust the tie rod ends to get the pitman arm to line up with the drag link then.
I did some writing a while back. Definitely use a wire wheel on the column to get any rust or debris off the shaft / splines. Be sure the end of the shaft is not flared slightly. I polished the end / tip of mine with a file.
Center the new box and align the box to the shaft as best you can. it's important. I would recommend an alignment after the installation, even if the wheel appears centered and tracking properly. It's cheap insurance.
Recheck the bolts after 100 miles and again after 500 miles.
Just be careful when putting the hoses on the box, make sure they go in straight.
Put a hose clamp on the column before you Wack it, stops it from going too far in.
Thanks, BLUE1972,
Yeah, I got all that taken care of and was overthinking the whole thing. I just unlocked the steering wheel and moved it over a bit and connected the relay rod to the pitman arm and locked everything down. So, my steering is off a bit and I'll just take it to the alignment folks and they'll get it the steering wheel centered again. But thanks for your feedback, I appreciate it! Now on to everything else left to do, but this now allows me to put the engine back in the car!
You need to make sure the alignment shop does it the correct way, at the tie rods. Probably a 99% chance that they will, but nothing compares to doing it yourself.
My steering wheel was off just a bit,,,, maybe one or two splines, not a big deal, just reinstall the steering wheel centered.
Nope. This is the opposite of what you should do. If you don't believe me, find a post by @GTR1999, or Jim Shea. The steering box must be on center first. All else derives from that.
The steering box must be centered first, for two reasons. The most important is that the gear lash is the tightest when it is exactly centered. And two, it has an internal stop to the right and to the left, it would be nice if the car could turn the same in both directions, but it also really needs to hit the external spindle stop at the same time or after the internal box stop, not before. Otherwise way too much torque can be applied to the tie rod end ball joints. So do not move the steering wheel, adjust both tie rod ends.
The box should be dead centered first.
Then the steering wheel set on it's splines so it is also dead centered.
Then the tire rod ends adjusted to get the wheels straight forward, and toe-in correct.
Moving the steering wheel later alters the box alignment, and introduces steering slop on-center, in the box itself.
Many alignment shops will take shortcuts, to keep the customer happy about the wheel being straight, but not the good ones.
If the wheel is not straight, the toe needs to be reset.
I will accept nothing less, so I usually do my own alignments.
I had a lot of practice in my Solo racing days.
Borgeson Install
