Rear caliper rubber hose at junction block will not come off! I WD40 it PB Blaster and let it soak over night! I have the correct wrench on it but not moving. Any suggestions.

 

Hi fake, sometimes brake stuff can be a bit frustrating. Are you replacing all the lines? If so, you can just crimp the lines to keep the brake fluid leaking to a minimum and cut the lines. Then you can remove the junction and try to salvage it. If you can't salvage the block, new ones are easy to obtain, inexpensive, and look/work great. If you aren't replacing all the lines, you might want to rethink that. +/-50 year old steel lines can be deceivingly ready to go in spots - even when they look 'ok'. Replacing them all (including the rubber lines!) isn't that bad. The long line on the driver's side is a bit of a pain, but not all that bad. A lot of people swear by stainless lines. I don't like them because IMO they're harder to work with when installing in places where you have to 'bend' a bit to get them in, can be harder to seat, and the steel lines lasted 50 years - and I won't. Best, Paul

PS: If you really don't want to replace all the lines you might try this: remove the bolt from the block so you can get enough room to put an open end wrench on it without bending your steel line too much. Then work the line wrench and the open end wrench together and work them 'against each other'. If you're able to get enough leverage, it'll come.

 

Thanks hopper 12. I know what you are trying to tell me for i see cloudy fluid even though i am gravity to bleed line on drivers side .If it does not come clear i will replace lines . Who sells the blocks if i can not salvage?

 

Been on my list for quite some time to replace the rear brake hoses. They are original on my '72 and the last time I gravity bled the rears I did not have a lot of brake fluid flow, which tells me the rubber inside the hose is swelling. Still stops well. Like what you're experiencing, I don't think a flare wrench will loosen my connections, just strip the nuts, so in the end bubba vice grips will be needed. Not what I like doing. So then i figure if I do that I'll also get new lines. Hence my delaying. The project grows, but brakes are a priority. Post how you make out. I think most rear brake connections on our cars are pretty frozen.

 

You are most welcome. I got my lines and blocks from Willcox. If you decide to do it, I'll send you a link to a post or two I did that explained a few things that helped. I wasn't looking forward to doing it (replaced all the lines, hoses, mc, calipers, rotors, etc. etc.) but I'm sure glad I did. Look great and work even better. They'll be good for a long time.

 

see if the hard lines come out of the other end. might be easier to deal with on the bench. or replace the blocks too.

 

Hey Dino, nice looking C3 in your avatar! I put off doing my brakes too. Then I noticed one spot in the line that goes from one rear block to the other - it was a spot in the line held by one of the clips. Even though the car is low mileage, I thought it looked weak. And I found when I tool the line out that area indeed was bad and ready to go at any time.

I always hesitate to start something I don't really want to tackle, but I'm sure glad when it's done. You can do the whole brake system in a weekend (or two if you spread the work out) as long as you have everything you need and you're ready to go. Here is some info that may help you or others:

• Get everything you need first. I decided to do everything so I had Lone Star calipers, rotors, mc, new pads, new bearings/races ("while you're in there"), lines, hoses, clips, all blocks, etc.
• I painted the calipers the correct color for my car. I also taped off the ends and gave all the lines and blocks, the non-friction areas of the rotors, etc. a very light coat of high-temp satin clear. I've been doing that for years and it works to keep stuff looking new for a looooong time.
• Get a motive power bleeder and sufficient new brake fluid - Dot 3/4.
• Have good line wrenches, etc.
• It sure helps if you have a lift, or access to one.
• I much prefer steel lines (not SS) for the reasons mentioned in my post above.

Now you have all the stuff ready to go. Doing this from memory, but here goes...

• Put the car up on blocks so it's very stable, remove all wheels so you can just get it all done at once.
• Remove all the lines, hoses, calipers, mc, etc. Take lots of pics before taking everything apart so you have reference if needed. You don't have to worry about saving the lines so just crimps them and cut them off if you have trouble breaking them loose.
• The long line from the front to rear on the drivers side is a bit of a pain. Some of the clip bolts are hard to get to, but you'll get them. Soak them first as needed. If some of the clips and bolts are a bit worn or rusted, they're available. Check them before you start so you have new stuff on hand if you need it.
• Once you have everything out, clean and whatever you like to whatever level you want.
• Bench bleed your new mc according to instructions. Make sure you do this.
• Install the new stuff one wheel at a time. DO NOT tighten the lines to the blocks at this time - only loose fit them, but make sure the threads are started correctly. Also, do not bolt the blocks in place until you have loose fit all lines that go to them.
• All the new brake lines go in easily except a bit of work on the long driver's side line. Start this one by working it back past the rear caliper. Then work the front part of the line up the firewall. You'll need to bend the line a bit while you're doing this, but it's okay as long as you don't go too wild - which you won't have to. This is one area where steel lines come in really handy - you can bend them a bit and work them back without as much issue.
• I find the 'pad holders' that are available from any of the corvette vendors to be really handy. They'll hold the pads and pistons in place while you slip them over the rotors, then just remove the 'holders' - ezpz.
• Don't forget the copper washers on the rubber lines to the calipers. Tighten the rubber hoses to the calipers after the calipers are bolted in - use some decent pressure - before you hook the rubber hose into the clips and install the steel lines. Follow the written script on the rubber lines to ensure you don't twist the rubber hoses.
• After everything is installed, go around and check EVERY fitting. Finish bolting the blocks down. Tighten the fittings with a good line wrench. This is another area where I like steel lines vs. SS - I find that steel lines generally seat better/easier. After you've checked every fitting, go around and do it again. Get them good and seated.
• Use a motive bleeder - not much pressure. As I remember about 10-12 lbs. Follow the instructions - farthest bleeder first, etc. Don't forget the inner/outer bleeders. Bleed the entire system really well.
• Bleed the system again. You'll likely find just a bit more air. While you're bleeding, don't let the mc run dry.
• Now put some pressure on the brake peddle. You should have a good, solid peddle.
• Check for leaks. Make certain the mc is at the right level.
• Test drive, and go back and check for leaks.
• No leaks, go bed the new pads.

Enjoy your new brakes that you likely will never have to touch again.

Hope this helps - it's not that bad and you'll feel much more confident about your brakes when you're done. Stay well, Paul



Don't forget to use pad lube in the right places


Here's a map of where to use the pad lube so you don't have squeaks.

 

Just a little heat will help remove most stuck on fasteners.
I use a Hot air gun and heat it up the parts and then apply the penetrating oil and allow a few minutes to get the oil pulled into the joint. Heat and a good penetrating oil will work as it takes off even the most stuck fittings!

 

I just after soaking with WD40 and PB Blasterremoved my hose off. I did remove brake line clip, wire brushed fitting, tap with ball peen hammer (small head on hammer)and placed clip back on and sleeved line wrench with a hollow piece of 1inch conduit and it finally broke loose. My brake fluid became clear after i let it drip on and off for 24 hours, other wise i would have placed a new line on. No heat was needed but that would have been my next step if previous would have failed.

 

Hi Hopper. Thanks for taking the time to post that detailed write up. Great info for me and others whom may read this post. I'll definitely rebuild the rear braking system this summer. Surprising how well many of these rubber parts hold up for 50 years, but brakes and fuel hoses are re not really something to keep exrtending. Last year I did a factory correct restore of the engine bay and while I was at it I replaced all the front brake lines and hoses along with a new factory coded correct MC. Also converted my calipers to O Ring seals. I know many have had no issues with the factory style lip seals, but over 30 years I've had many rebuilt SS calipers leak prematurely and wasted pads with hardly any mileage. So made the change. So far so good.

To the OP, sounds like you had some good luck. Great news. Reincentivizing my project.