welsh plug replacement
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 2,276
Likes: 337
From: "ɹǝpunuʍop", Adelaide, South Australia
welsh plug replacement
or do you call them "freeze" plugs over there?
either way it's where the core casting hole is under the engine mount that's plugged with the brass disk that's leaking on a club members car, a '77.
he asked me last night how hard would it be to replace whilst engine is still in car?
support engine sump, remove mount and ??????
thoughts?
either way it's where the core casting hole is under the engine mount that's plugged with the brass disk that's leaking on a club members car, a '77.
he asked me last night how hard would it be to replace whilst engine is still in car?
support engine sump, remove mount and ??????
thoughts?
Is my vette stock?? HAHA
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 20,116
Likes: 9,247
From: Im not allowed to tell you
2020 C3 of the Year Finalist - Modified
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
2019 C3 of Year Winner (performance mods)
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
You may have to pull the exhaust on that side as well, both sides if you want to rock it towards the passenger side. Loosen the transmission mount as well I would suggest an engine crane and pull up on that side of the motor from the frnat and rear of the heads. If you can knock in the bottom then grab the top you should be able to pull it out.
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 13,151
Likes: 7,765
From: Sunshine Coast, Queensland, Australia
2025 C3 of the Year Finalist - Modified
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Modified
2022 C3 of the Year Finalist - Modified
Cruise-In VIII Veteran
If the 77 has factory exhaust, I don't think you will need to pull the exhaust. If the freeze plug in question is right behind the motor mount, the exhaust is to the rear of that location. None the less pulling the exhaust would give you more room to work.
I would put a block of wood on the rear of oil pan slightly to the offending side. Jack it with a floor jack just enough to get the weight off of that motor mount, remove motor mount completely. you should have access to the plug. drilling a small hole in it off center and screwing in a tec screw or sheet metal screw will give you something to grab and pull to remove old plug. very tight in there but can be done.
I think you know the rest.
I would put a block of wood on the rear of oil pan slightly to the offending side. Jack it with a floor jack just enough to get the weight off of that motor mount, remove motor mount completely. you should have access to the plug. drilling a small hole in it off center and screwing in a tec screw or sheet metal screw will give you something to grab and pull to remove old plug. very tight in there but can be done.
I think you know the rest.
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 1,957
Likes: 576
From: Pittsburgh PA
I changed that plug in my 68. Engine in car.
jack engine up by sump with that bolt removed. Remove motor mount completely. After I got the plug out I couldn’t get a good hit on new plug to knock it in. I drilled holes in a piece of 1/4” steel to match motor mount pattern and pressed it in that way. No leaks 4 years later
jack engine up by sump with that bolt removed. Remove motor mount completely. After I got the plug out I couldn’t get a good hit on new plug to knock it in. I drilled holes in a piece of 1/4” steel to match motor mount pattern and pressed it in that way. No leaks 4 years later
1967 Pedal Car Champion
Joined: Mar 2020
Posts: 9,008
Likes: 4,166
From: US-PNW
That's my concern - how can you get enough force to drive it in if you don't have nearby engine mount holes? I suppose if you could get a pneumatic impact hammer in there or maybe even a palm nailer with a plate over the plug to distribute the force, it may work.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 2,276
Likes: 337
From: "ɹǝpunuʍop", Adelaide, South Australia
thanks for the quick replies, i'll pass the info on to him.
i like this idea, sounds like a good plan.
