I have a 5hp Campbell-Hausfeld with a 28 gallon vertical take. 110V and oil free. I debated over the oil free vs. an oiled crankcase, but this compressor was a closeout at Home Depot for $99.

So far it has worked just fine with my impact driver, air hammer, and the socket wrench. The dual action sander worked OK, but the compressor ran a bunch.

When I build my big shop, I will go for the 220 dual stage with 60 gallon tank, but for working in my garage, that little compressor is doing just fine. Rebuilds are very easy and cheap.

Mike

 

Clutchdust makes a good point he installs for commercials users who do this stuff 8 hour a day +.

In contrast, I've got a 6.5 hp, two phase, 220 60 gal unit that kicks butt for my needs. I may use it 4 hours a week but its there when I need to call on it. Sometimes for kicks, I fire it up to blows leaves off the car.

Oh...forgot to add that I run a 200 psi PVC line from a storage shed in the back of the shop into the shop where I connect to whatever tool I need.


[Modified by hunt4cleanair, 8:01 PM 1/2/2003]

 

Well, once again, thanks to all for the input. It's been quite valuable. Did some more research, and here's what I've fingered out so far... :D

Attic installation is out for me. :( It's just a simple 2x4 framed garage, 29 years old, and the sheetrock ceiling has already popped loose in a few places, probably (now I understand why!) from the vibration from the door opener.

No attic install, so no need for hard plumbing. Like the man said, "KISS". I'll just have to find some place else to store the original engine (L81) out of my Vette (it's in the crate that the crate motor came in) and I'll let the new compressor live where the motor was squatting...

If I were going to do hard plumbing for air line, I'd use copper. I checked with Porter-Cable, and they specifically forbid the use of PVC - "metal pipe only", the book says. They don't say why, but the oil explanation (thanks LOTS, Clutchdust!) makes sense to me (now). Before, I thought that any pipe that could handle the static pressure and extreme pressure spikes of hydraulic shock in a water line that schedule 80 or even 40 PVC can, should be able to handle the "soft" pressure of air with no problem. But (as usual) there appears to be another side to the story... so, copper's the right stuff. Iron's fine, but corrodes more and develops leaks easier (apparently!).

On the subject of Porter-Cable, I found out that most of their compressors are made by DeVilbiss. I have owned and worked the hell out of a bunch of P-C power tools, and I have faith in that name. But it turns out that P-C compressors (the oil-less ones, at least) are DeVilbiss compressors that have been painted red instead of black and had 20% added to their price. So if I go with an oil-less, it'll be DeVilbiss.

I'd rather buy one compressor now and not ever buy one again, so an oil-lubed 220v is indicated. However, all those I've been able to look at are too big for the space I've got (probably about 30 gallons, max). All the units I've seen that are small enough, are also oil-less 110v. I asked the P-C guy about that, and he said they can build the oil-less ones so much cheaper than the oiled ones, that nobody even tries to sell an oil-lubed compressor now that's smaller than about 35 gallons and under 150 psi. He also said the oil-lubed pumps are still required for higher delivery rates (over 12 cfm @ 40 psi) and higher max pressures (over 150 working psi), because the oil-less pumps won't live long enough at those pressures and rates. They warrant their oil-less units for 1 year, and the oil-lubed ones for 3 years. According to him, the main problem with the oil-less units is dirty air - if you can keep it where the intake air is clean and cool, and keep the duty cycle under 50% (warranty requirement!) he says they'll last. I still want oil.

So I'm still looking for a 20-30 gallon, oil-lubed, unit. At that size, 110v is probably sufficient, as the motor is probably only 3hp max. If it'll deliver 6 cfm @ 40 psi, it'll run the paint gun and a small impact wrench, which is all I'm planning on. But the limited info I've found thus far tells me to go ahead and get the oil-less, and get over it.

Thanks again for all the good info. Feels like I've been to school... :flag

 

uh-huh :rolleyes: it'll last long enough to make it out of warranty. you should see the guts of an oil free compressor, it's scary. what most of them have is a single piece rod/piston that uses an oval shaped piston with a teflon cup that 'wobbles' in the bore (no wrist pin) as it rotates. they only have like a 1" stroke and they spin the living crap out of them. that is why they sound the way they do. it doesn't help the rod/piston POS is made from really cheap chinease aluminum. :nono:
sounds like you have things figured out though. one thing you should consider is looking up air compressor shops in the yellow pages and talking to a couple. there is a guy i trade business with that does all the smaller compressors like what your talking about. he builds his own brand and can build to spec. he'll build one from the ground up using new parts or he can build an economy from used and rebuilt parts. he even offers a warranty. maybe you could find a local shop that will build you the size you want. :cheers: