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Old May 20, 2022 | 04:47 PM
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Default Engine stumbles off the line

So I have a question for any Holley Carb guru's. I have a mostly stock 350 in my 74, except it does have a torker 2 intake, Holley 750, 1.6 roller rockers, HEI with vac advance. This car runs perfect, no issues with starting, driving etc. Has good vacuum readings and plugs look as they should. Car has great pick up with no bogs or sputters on mild take off. My issue is when I mash the pedal fast it does stumble and bog down, then quickly takes off. A friend suggested moving the vac advance to manifold port which I did with no noticeable improvement. I have car timed to 8 degrees btc, the accelerator pump was set up using YouTube videos and Holly's website, this was the first thing I looked at.
So I am curious at what I am missing, carb is in great shape but was a swap meet buy. I am just trying to bark the tires a wee bit and not sure even with bog fixed it will do that, but more curious about why it's bogging when pedal is mashed.
Thanks for all input and suggestions.
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Old May 20, 2022 | 04:53 PM
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You likely need to go up a few sizes on your squirter. I'd also go up a few degrees on timing. Try 12 maybe.
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Old May 20, 2022 | 06:18 PM
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You may have seen this thread, but I had the same problem and received a ton of good advice on this thread. For me it ended up being just not tight enough on the acc pump linkage, due to the need for clearance at WOT. Yes, 8* advance is low.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1605152607
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Old May 20, 2022 | 06:21 PM
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What size squirters are you running? What is the total timing you are running? You should look for Lars paper on setting timing. What transmission do you have? Is the engine stock other than what you mentioned? A 1974 corvette had 195 hp with the L48 or 250 with the L82. Neither will be a big performing engine if you have an automatic.
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Old May 20, 2022 | 06:49 PM
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move initial timing to 15* withg the vacuum advance disconnected and the port plugged, then reconnect it, and it will be very close to all in at 3000 rpm. Thats problem number one.
NUmber 2, is it an auto or standard. If its a standard you have to get above 2000 rpm if you are just going to mash it and let out the clutch. An auto should light them up even a lame one with the timing set correct and the accelerator pump working
Number 3 would be how is your idle set screws set and your throttle set screws set. You could be into the transition circuit at idle if it all isnt set correctly. Do you know your vacuum setting at idle and what power valve you have?

If you dont go big on your timing you will never get anywhere, but with your cam start at 12, test it with a burn out and increase 2 degrees and try again. Dont go above 18*, with your cam you may not notice above 14 anyway, but the 1.6 rockers will help you out there giving it a bit more lift and duration

Last edited by Rescue Rogers; May 20, 2022 at 07:06 PM.
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Old May 20, 2022 | 06:55 PM
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Ahnenerbe, I think you are misunderstanding Vac Adv.
The vac canister advances timing when vacuum is applied.
How much vacuum do you have at WOT? Zero.
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Old May 20, 2022 | 07:07 PM
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But it is there at idle and off idle, it does matter
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Old May 20, 2022 | 10:43 PM
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Thanks for all the help friends. Its a auto trans recently rebuilt and the squirters I have no idea. I assume they are what comes on 750 3310 carbs stock. I will take them out and then buy a couple size ranges up or a kit of them from Jegs. The timing will be moved to 12 and set as you describe and I'll report back. I know the heads are junk, so Iam thinking about doing cam and heads coming up to get more HP.


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Old May 20, 2022 | 11:25 PM
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Originally Posted by btwick
You may have seen this thread, but I had the same problem and received a ton of good advice on this thread. For me it ended up being just not tight enough on the acc pump linkage, due to the need for clearance at WOT. Yes, 8* advance is low.

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Old May 21, 2022 | 07:19 AM
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Increasing squirters isnt going to do much if you arent set up properly.
More timing
Tighten the pump so it just touches the arm no space
Make sure the idle settings are correct
Bring your idle up to 800
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Old May 21, 2022 | 08:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Ahnenerbe
So I have a question for any Holley Carb guru's. I have a mostly stock 350 in my 74, except it does have a torker 2 intake, Holley 750, 1.6 roller rockers, HEI with vac advance. This car runs perfect, no issues with starting, driving etc. Has good vacuum readings and plugs look as they should. Car has great pick up with no bogs or sputters on mild take off. My issue is when I mash the pedal fast it does stumble and bog down, then quickly takes off. A friend suggested moving the vac advance to manifold port which I did with no noticeable improvement. I have car timed to 8 degrees btc, the accelerator pump was set up using YouTube videos and Holly's website, this was the first thing I looked at.
So I am curious at what I am missing, carb is in great shape but was a swap meet buy. I am just trying to bark the tires a wee bit and not sure even with bog fixed it will do that, but more curious about why it's bogging when pedal is mashed.
Thanks for all input and suggestions.
If the car runs fine mucking with the timing is not what is going on. Bigger squirters is bad advice from yesteryears Bubba garage! The Tor 2 single plane manifold is of very bad design from the 1970's. Second problem is a 750 carb on a mild low hp 350. You can master any carb if you understand how they work. I just did a rebuild kit on mine which included new squirter diaphragms. When I put it back together I had lean popping when I cracked the throttle. So I added only about one turn to the squirter arm and the problem was solved.

You didn't say what your swap meet buy really was in carb type, but bad single plane made for 2500 - 6500 rpm and 750 cfm is not made for WOT off idle. Increasing idle speed, squirter arm, I use a 1/2 inch wood 4 hole spacer on my single plane to increase the signal to my down leg boosters. Holley uses straight leg boosters which are the worst for off idle fuel flow. and possibly changing the carb secondary cam color to slow the secondary opening. I also didn't see tranny type.

I have a 5 speed and 4.11 rear end and I have done everything possible so it doesn't "Bark the tires" Including sticky 335 rear tires, so it takes off instead of spinning the tires

Edelbrock 5001 Small Block Chevy Torker II Intake Manifold (speedwaymotors.com)
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Old May 21, 2022 | 09:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Sigforty
What size squirters are you running? What is the total timing you are running? You should look for Lars paper on setting timing. What transmission do you have? Is the engine stock other than what you mentioned? A 1974 corvette had 195 hp with the L48 or 250 with the L82. Neither will be a big performing engine if you have an automatic.
Especially with a mismatched single plane intake which will typically crush power at lower rpms to make more at 4000+. Incase it hasnt been mentioned single plane intakes are for high reving engines with big cams that spend their time in the high rpms.

I had this bog with my old edelbrock 650 carb and also with the holley street avenger 670 I replaced it with. for me removing the slack in the squirter arm did the trick and going to an orange squirter cam helped eliminate the bog. My new QF cam didnt have the issue.

Last edited by augiedoggy; May 21, 2022 at 09:22 AM.
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Old May 21, 2022 | 09:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Ahnenerbe
Thanks for all the help friends. Its a auto trans recently rebuilt and the squirters I have no idea. I assume they are what comes on 750 3310 carbs stock. I will take them out and then buy a couple size ranges up or a kit of them from Jegs. The timing will be moved to 12 and set as you describe and I'll report back. I know the heads are junk, so Iam thinking about doing cam and heads coming up to get more HP.
you will get more seat of your pants torque at takeoff by changing to a dual plane intake, honestly. especially if you still have the stock auto trans gearing in the rear axle. I have a 10:1 compression 355 with 64cc alumium heads, a cam and sidepipes in my 74 and I wouldnt consider a single plane with my setup or gearing. To "bark the tires" you need either a high rpm stall converter installed in the th400 trans or efforts made to improve you low end torque (which is were a dual plane intake helps) your other option is those 4.11 gears Gskull has but with todays fuel prices you will need an overdrive trans or a trailer to take it it where you want to show it off.

Last edited by augiedoggy; May 21, 2022 at 09:33 AM.
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Old May 21, 2022 | 03:41 PM
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You guys are giving me some things to think about. I don't think this car is set up right. I played with it today, carb had 25 squirters, I went up to 28 and moved timing up to 12 and it did improve but still has a very slight hesitation and still doesn't bark the tires. I do have a dual plane I can put on so maybe I'll do that tomorrow. I'll report back.So to sum up changing to bigger squirters and timing helped it a lot, but still not where I want it.
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Old May 21, 2022 | 03:58 PM
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keep going with the timing
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Old May 21, 2022 | 05:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Rescue Rogers
keep going with the timing
Exactly ☺️
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Old May 23, 2022 | 05:51 PM
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Well friends, I can report back that this Vette is like a new beast. So playing with the squirters really didn't seem to solve the main bogging issue on Sat. I had a performer manifold sitting around and decided to swap out the Torker. After installing the dist wrong and hearing lots of detonation, I realized my mistake. I put it in one tooth off and it ran crappy and sounded like marbles were busting the rods. I only ran it at idle for a few minutes and shut it off, don't seem to have damaged anything. I re timed the dizzy via the old TDC method and got it right the second time around.
She started right up and only needed a slight adjustment on timing and mixture. So I ended putting on performer dual plane, 31 suirters, and fixed the timing to 15 and now she jumps and squeals like never before. No more bogging. Thanks for all the help and advice!!!
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Old May 23, 2022 | 06:00 PM
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Very happy you got the right combination
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Old May 24, 2022 | 10:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Ahnenerbe
Well friends, I can report back that this Vette is like a new beast. So playing with the squirters really didn't seem to solve the main bogging issue on Sat. I had a performer manifold sitting around and decided to swap out the Torker. After installing the dist wrong and hearing lots of detonation, I realized my mistake. I put it in one tooth off and it ran crappy and sounded like marbles were busting the rods. I only ran it at idle for a few minutes and shut it off, don't seem to have damaged anything. I re timed the dizzy via the old TDC method and got it right the second time around.
She started right up and only needed a slight adjustment on timing and mixture. So I ended putting on performer dual plane, 31 suirters, and fixed the timing to 15 and now she jumps and squeals like never before. No more bogging. Thanks for all the help and advice!!!
Yep...welcome to the wonderful world of carb signal.....you have experienced it first hand.....your 750 is too large for your combo and the engine with that crap low rise single plane cannot signal the booster hard and fast enough to pull fuel through the booster.....this is everything on an engine......without signal, no ticky...no washy.......
The 2101 will signal a 750 3310 well....and compensate for the venturis being too large.
Put a 650 on this engine and it will run even better.......but if the 750 is going good....leave it alone.
Good job.

Jebby
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