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The AFR 195 Race heads in my 406 came with adjustable / split guides.......was the builder supposed to weld them after adjusting them? Is that mandatory? I would not be surprised if it was not another mistake this guy made.
And NewB. Usually the hole for the rocker stud is drilled over-sized. Just enough to allow adjustments.
Joserpaq, going back over your opening statement you said you wanted to check the lash.
I also noted going over the photos that not one spring appears to be compressed.
So, now I am putting two & two together.
How was the lash?
Last edited by HeadsU.P.; May 24, 2022 at 07:55 PM.
And NewB. Usually the hole for the rocker stud is drilled over-sized. Just enough to allow adjustments.
Joserpaq, going back over your opening statement you said you wanted to check the lash.
I also noted going over the photos that not one spring appears to be compressed.
So, now I am putting two & two together.
How was the lash?
The lash was weak on 4 rockers including the one with the issue. I may have been a bit short when I put it together this is my first time doing a build like this. I plan to resolve the alignment issues and go over all lashes. I'm basically rotating crank until valve is fully seated and adusting to 0 lash by finger tightening the nut until the rod rotates with some tension. Then I think I went 1/4 turn so I may go 1/2 turn preload this time around.
The rocker arm nuts look like they might be some kind of poly locks???? But no room for the set screws??? The studs would need to be flat machined on top to seat a set screw. When you said you set the lash with your fingers that made me pause. This setup will allow your lash setting to back off and make a mess.
Those rockers usually come with prevailing torque nuts. The last set of those rockers I bought came with the worst nuts ever. They were too weak to hold a lash setting. I just found a set of good used nuts that still held against the threads. No issues.
Those raise guide plates are not going to solve anything......the intake need to move independent of the exhaust.....
You can see from the photos that the exhaust is on the stem and the intake is way off......if you slide a one piece guideplate over to straighten it out...it will just move the exhaust too far over.
@NewbVetteGuy I have not used the Jomar.....but they are pretty clever.....no rotation when you tighten it.....which is why a split one is a pain.....it wants to twist and bend sometimes.
No matter what happens here...the intake has to move 100% independent of the exhaust to fix this regardless of how it happened or why. If it were here it would be fixed in an afternoon as I keep split plates on the shelf for this exact reason.
The AFR 195 Race heads in my 406 came with adjustable / split guides.......was the builder supposed to weld them after adjusting them? Is that mandatory? I would not be surprised if it was not another mistake this guy made.
It is not mandatory but not easy to do without welding them. You have to set distance first.....mark them, then remove and weld.
Joserpaq,
Looking over your photos again, it almost looks the guide plate slot is too large. Makes you wonder if they are for the larger size pushrods.
The new guide plates you ordered will serve their purpose. You sure don't need split & welded plates.
Going back to post 23, is a clue. Without getting into 100 different opinions on setting valve-lash, I think you went a little soft on yours.
After zero lash, some people go 1/2 turn, 3/4 turn or one full turn. But yours leaves some lash, especially if the lifters bled down later considerably.
And the rocker arm hardware is somewhat of a suspect as Sting pointed out.
And NewB. Usually the hole for the rocker stud is drilled over-sized. Just enough to allow adjustments.
Joserpaq, going back over your opening statement you said you wanted to check the lash.
I also noted going over the photos that not one spring appears to be compressed.
So, now I am putting two & two together.
How was the lash?
That was the case with my comp raised guide plates (oversized holes allowed for some adjustability). I still don't think the alignment was fully ideal, but I decided it was "good enough" after adjusting the intake side as best as I could.
Could you have some different length pushrods ? I'd look at the rocker ball size. Those pushrods that are canted are they looser than others? Otherwise it probably is the guideplate.
That ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ brings up a good point. Just about all aluminum after-market heads state right in the owner's manual, new pushrods of 0.100 longer may be required. Always double check length with a "push-rod length checking tool" to verify before proceeding.
Have you considered guided rocker arm and ditching the guide plates?
some folks frown on these, but I've used them for 20 years and have never had an issue using them to 7300 RPM.....
Something to think about. Here's something similar to what you have.....
Have you considered guided rocker arm and ditching the guide plates?
some folks frown on these, but I've used them for 20 years and have never had an issue using them to 7300 RPM.....
Something to think about. Here's something similar to what you have.....
The AFR 195 Race heads in my 406 came with adjustable / split guides.......was the builder supposed to weld them after adjusting them? Is that mandatory? I would not be surprised if it was not another mistake this guy made.
How does a roller tip rocker self-align? The jegs link appears to be the same style rocker he currently has.
I just pulled this image off the web, but you can see the tabs on the underside that would hold the rocker aligned with the valve stem....I'm sure the pic in the link is just a stock pic.
And some companies have a stainless harden washer on each side of the roller tip, that is a larger diameter than the roller itself. Thus keeping it dead center on the valve stem tip.
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