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Years ago Flaming River used to have a rag joint replacement Stainless knuckle. Does anyone have a source or idea of where to get one these days. actually it is the size that is confusing as to which one to buy. My 1979 Vette.
F.R. Tech support thinks that it is a 3/4 30 spline to 1 inch 48 spline. My calipers say that the input is 9/16th which could be correct since you crush it closed with a side bolt tightener.
F.R. Tech support thinks that it is a 3/4 30 spline to 1 inch 48 spline. My calipers say that the input is 9/16th which could be correct since you crush it closed with a side bolt tightener.
That sounds correct for later cars. My 80 has an FR1713 U-joint, but it also has a C2/early C3 style set of steering box internals.
Are you planning on replacing the rag joint with the universal joint? It is from the looks of it a lot longer than the rag joint was. It is important to get a fresh one as some in the parts stores may have been there for decades.
I have the joint shown above in the Steeroids Power Rack and Pinion system.
The prices on EVERYTHING have gone ridiculous thanks to "Putin's war" (sleepy joe)..... The last time I bought a rag joint they were less than $25 and that was at a pricey NAPA because they stocked it.
Are you planning on replacing the rag joint with the universal joint? It is from the looks of it a lot longer than the rag joint was. It is important to get a fresh one as some in the parts stores may have been there for decades.
I have the joint shown above in the Steeroids Power Rack and Pinion system.
The prices on EVERYTHING have gone ridiculous thanks to "Putin's war" (sleepy joe)..... The last time I bought a rag joint they were less than $25 and that was at a pricey NAPA because they stocked it.
Today the rag joint is $49.95 plus tax The FR ujoint was $119. You have to remove/rotate the steering box on the frame to get enough clearance to install either one.
Replacing the joint is a tuff job with big headers on. You have to remove the 3 steering boxes castle bolts. You need 9/16th box end wrench ratcheting and it's a PITA! Not for the average person. Probably almost better if the motor is out.
There are the same length. I actually replaced the rag joint when Gary rebuilt my stock steering box. Great job and nice work by Gary. years of road racing took it's toll. I just wanted total positive steering for driving and the rag joint doesn't do it. I should have done this years ago!
Zip Corvette also has the flaming river universal, I bought one this last winter from them. It was $95 back then tho, seems everything is getting more expensive.
When I did mine I dropped the steering column , pulled it back a few inches, and slipped the FR joint in with the motor in. Don't remember any major problems,....
Been in for years and the steering feel is solid.
So what are the drawbacks of using the Flaming River joint over a stock style one? Are there increased vibrations transmitted through the steering since there is no longer a rubber coupler (especially on a manual steering setup)? I need to replace my coupler (Gary rebuilt my steering box and it made a tremendous difference) and want to consider all options.
So what are the drawbacks of using the Flaming River joint over a stock style one? Are there increased vibrations transmitted through the steering since there is no longer a rubber coupler (especially on a manual steering setup)? I need to replace my coupler (Gary rebuilt my steering box and it made a tremendous difference) and want to consider all options.
I don't know how vibrations could get through the steering box. What would cause steering vibration when everything is mounted solid. I think the rag joint was more of a safety idea in a front end collision
The steering box is mounted to the frame, and the steering column is mounted to the fiberglass body. There is some movement, which the rag joint can accommodate.
That said, I have Flaming River U-Joints in both of my C3s. One has a Borgeson box, one has @GTR1999 rebuilt manual steering.