went to put new rear rotors on my 1972 and noticed the drivers side trailing arm bearings are bad, so going to rebuild both the arms,
a while i'm at it moment, it's winter down here after all.....
now i could just buy from a vendor over there and wait weeks for shipping, or buy from the few people who import vette parts down here, and pay their marked up prices....
or i'll just buy thru a bearing place myself thru work.
as they are not a common vehicle here, they don't have off the shelf kits pre made, so,
can anyone (GTR1999) please list the part numbers for the following parts

Inner Bearing and Race
Outer Bearing and Race
Inner Seal
Outer Seal

have looked thru lots of rebuild posts and cannot seem to find any reference to part numbers

 

Here you go

seals

Inner rear bearing seal- NAPA/ CR # 16757

Outer Seal NAPA/CR #19803

Bearings

Inner Bearing Cone (NDH) #M86649

Inner Bearing Cup (NDH) #M86610

Outer Bearing Cone (NDH) # LM48548

Outer Bearing Cup (NDH) #LM48510

 

thanks Gary.
is that number a universal number/size between brands?
ie same between timken / skf etc

 

numbers should be the same among major brands, I would not use Chinese brand names.

 

thanks again

nobody knows anything down here

asked bearing supplier for Timken or SKF

 

I don't know River. A few years ago I was rebuilding my trailing arms. Ordered the rubber bushings up front and some stainless shims from the States.
But walked into a bearing supply house in Brisbane, and they had the Timken bearings in stock. I fully expected them to say they would have to order them. But no. they just handed them over. Bearing spacers and even a couple extra center sleeves I have. So no issues .

 

yeah i contacted CBC bearing supply, but they don't have '72 vette listed in the parts system.
yes they can get them, but needed to know part numbers or sizes.

as i was typing this they just got back to me, about 30$au per cup n cone set and about 25$au per seal. so about 110$au per side.

 

Keep in mind You need special Tools to do this job. Cheap Chinese Tools are available on e-bay and vendors.

 

i'm a fitter n turner / toolmaker, have unlimited access to machinery and measuring equipment.

what i don't have, i'll just make

a bloke in the club has done a couple of sets and have arranged to use his tools/press etc.

 

Alan I have the bearing setup tool if you want to borrow it ?

 

thanks for the kind offer,

i have a drawing (hope it's correctly drawn) of the setup tool and can get the apprentice at work to turn it up.
also need to make a front bush clamping staking tool and a Rear Spindle Installation Tool.

it's good being a machinist, give me a drawing or sketch with dimensions and i'll make it work

 

I made my own staking tool for the front bush a few years back. now everyone borrows it. Easy. Bearing set up tool. super easy. Not even a little bit concerned for you River.

 

put a knurled handle on it with a 7/8 hex

 

Rockauto ships international to some countries. If they ship to yours you're in luck. Beware some bearings don't come with the race so read the fine print in the description so you don't pay twice for shipping (like me). Be sure whatever brand of bearing you buy, buy the race of the same brand. And you will need a shim kit which Rockauto doesn't sell. If you look on eBay there are sellers that sells wheel bearing, seal, and shim kits and now that eBay has a global shipping program, eBay may be you're best bet for those parts.
Okay here's my take on Corvette rear wheel bearings on set up, install method and tools. I bought all those special tools and sold them (eBay give it and eBay take it away). A 20 ton press and bearing separator is all you need, works better, and has other uses too for about the same money. This is how I've done it. After disassembly and the new races are pressed into the hub (notice I said pressed not hammered, I don't like to hammer on parts) I press on the outer bearing onto the spindle, place the smallest shim pack on the spindle and press the whole thing together with the inter bearing while rotating the hub until it's tight to rotate or everything is seated. What I'm looking for is about 5 ft lbs of drag. I press the assembly apart and repeat the process with the next size up shim untill I get that 5 ft lbs of drag when everything is seated. Then I press everything apart, place the outer bearing in the hub and install the outer seal. Bolt the hub, trailing arm, and the backing plate together with the parking brake already assembled. Side the spindle into the hub, slide the inter bearing on the spindle, and press it all together. Install the inter seal, dust cover, and yoke.
Now I can hear all you keyboard warriors screaming "that's not how it's supposed to be done!" and "you're supposed to have .003 endplay because I read it in a book!". Well I say to that "let the book come out here and do it". I could never understand why would you want to have play on any taper bearing. It makes no sense. Especially on a disc brake set up you're trying to get the least amount of rotor run out only to add play for it to wobble on?? That .003 end play will turn into .006 in a 1000 miles too. Ever buy a roller bearing that had .003 play in it right out of the box? I don't think so. I've been setting up taper bearings with a pre load from cars to class 8 trucks to scrap metal shredders and never had a bearing failure in my 42 years of wenching for a living. I know a lot guys here don't agree with my methods including some of the "more respected" members here. I stand by my methods.

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damn. sounds like we should start sending out trailing arms to aussie land to get redone. oh yeah. sorry Gary...

 

errm... NO, the freight would be a killer, that's why i'll build any tools i will need for this once off exercise

example from above, the spindle tool cost you about 110$us that's about 154$au before shipping down here.. and it's heavy, and would take a couple of weeks.
the local places (only really 2 to choose from) are about 205$au which is about 145$us, plus there would still be shipping as the stores are on the other side of the country to me.
i know they have to import it and then cover costs and make a bit, but boy do we get ripped off.

 

You can also buy the bearings as cup and cone sets, look up Timken set 5 and Timken set 309.

 

the bearings were no problem to find using GTR1999'S part numbers, went with Timken, bought local.

it's the seals that's causing the trouble...
local bearing place wants 30$au (about 21$us) each, PLUS they want me to pay the postage from their warehouse intestate to warehouse here as it's a special order for them..

still looking, still a lot of work to do before reassembly time.