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Well now I can join the wiper door problem thread, my wiper door worked great until this morning I started my 69 and up pops the wiper door and it will not shut it seems one of the two vacuum hoses which goes to the port closest to the fire wall or the back of canister has constant vacuum .
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
2019 C3 of Year Winner (performance mods)
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
There is always constant vacuum to the work side. The relay switches it from closed to open. When there is no vacuum to the relay it opens. You either have a leak in the actuator relay, the door open Vacuum plunger switch under the wiper door near the wiper arms or your relay solenoid on the tach is bad or leaking. Most of the time its the first 2 most likely the plung ere r if the door doesnt try to close
There is always constant vacuum to the work side. The relay switches it from closed to open. When there is no vacuum to the relay it opens. You either have a leak in the actuator relay, the door open Vacuum plunger switch under the wiper door near the wiper arms or your relay solenoid on the tach is bad or leaking. Most of the time its the first 2 most likely the plung ere r if the door doesnt try to close
thanks for the help is there a way to test the vacuum plunger switch and the actuator relay I was working on the wiper motor cuz I have constant power the the wiper motor and I pulled the wiper on off 2 speed switch down a couple of time and maybe damaged the connection at the relay solenoid .
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
2019 C3 of Year Winner (performance mods)
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
Originally Posted by 509 rat
thanks for the help is there a way to test the vacuum plunger switch and the actuator relay I was working on the wiper motor cuz I have constant power the the wiper motor and I pulled the wiper on off 2 speed switch down a couple of time and maybe damaged the connection at the relay solenoid .
For the actuator relay just hook a vacuum pump to the top port applying vacuum while the car is running will pull the plunger up which sends the vacuum to the close side if the actuator. If the vlave is leaking the door may close then open again or not close at all
For the actuator relay just hook a vacuum pump to the top port applying vacuum while the car is running will pull the plunger up which sends the vacuum to the close side if the actuator. If the vlave is leaking the door may close then open again or not close at all
well I got the wiper door to go up with the manual over ride **** pulled down but it seems my new wiper motor keeps running when I plug it in and the main switch above the center council is not working correctly could it be the wiper door vacuum control solenoid .
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
2019 C3 of Year Winner (performance mods)
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
If the motor doesnt park and stop, then the door wont shut. Mine is doing that. Generally its a bad park switch. Thete is a bench test in tjose links i added. You can do the test without removing the motor. If it works doing the test then its a wiring issue, usually a bad ground
Well now I can join the wiper door problem thread, my wiper door worked great until this morning I started my 69 and up pops the wiper door and it will not shut it seems one of the two vacuum hoses which goes to the port closest to the fire wall or the back of canister has constant vacuum .
Not sure if this is what's happening in your case: I discovered, while working on reinstalling my '72's dash and gauges, that if the wiper switch is not connected to ground then the door automatically opens when the car is started. Jumpering the switch housing's metal to ground closes the door. The switch is normally grounded when installed in the cluster housing which is why a broken housing can interfere with switch operation.
If the motor doesnt park and stop, then the door wont shut. Mine is doing that. Generally its a bad park switch. Thete is a bench test in tjose links i added. You can do the test without removing the motor. If it works doing the test then its a wiring issue, usually a bad ground
well I just had the vintage ac installed and the old ground used to go to the heater core box area so I ran a new ground and then the wiper turns on with out the 3 prong plug being plugged in and its a brand new wiper motor
and the switch that is supposed to turn it off and on and low and hi is not working correctly and if I leave the motor plugged in nothing happens but as soon as I ground motor it turns on .
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
2019 C3 of Year Winner (performance mods)
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
Sounds like the motor might not be the correct one or its wired incorrectly. If everything worked prior and thats all you changed then it should operate. I would recheck all the wiper wiring and make sure something didnt get rerouted
Also forgot to say that if you have the wiper door override pulled it wont shut either...
Well I am throwing in the towel there was no ground wire to the switch on dash so I installed one and I ran a ground from motor to frame and when I turn the power on the wiper motor runs the dash switch is not doing anything it's either the switch or the wiper motor itself or could it be the wiper door vacuum control solenoid .
does the wiper door control solenoid have anything to do with the motor operation itself and all my over ride stuff under the steering column work when I get a small battery I will test motor itself .
Well I dropped my 69 corvette at a well respected corvette shop that the owner has had for 40 years and specializes in late model corvettes and tested wiper motor and told me it was junk and not working correctly I told him it was new and he said it happens a lot and we ordered a better quality wiper motor .
wiper solenoid came in and tested. Held vacuum so I swapped it.
Slow leaks found at both override right angle rubber boots that are now removed.
Moving through each system and confirming vacuum is stable. Have made it to the control supply line at the manifold check valve. 25 in/mg has bled down to 10 in/mg after 12 hours. Is that normal? Or have I found a small leak between the check valve and interior T fitting?
Have made it to the control supply line at the manifold check valve. 25 in/mg has bled down to 10 in/mg after 12 hours. Is that normal? Or have I found a small leak between the check valve and interior T fitting?
That you still had any vacuum after 12 hours is astounding, let alone 10 inches! The amount of this leak is minuscule and the system can easily overcome it.
(Just because I'm a wonk* in many ways: mg is the abbreviation for magnesium, hg is mercury.)
*My wife says, "No dear, you're an ***."