Radiator was pulled from my 73 during the cam swap, wasn't leaking but did have a lot of green corrosion on the outside and inside didn't look too good as well. In the process of removing the radiator I managed to knock loose the upper inlet tube and overflow hose tube. I took the radiator to a local radiator shop and we discussed a boil out / rod out / core replacement. Told them to do whatever needed done to make the radiator right. Price quoted was $100 to $400 depended on what it needed. Got a phone call it was ready and the cost was $100 so I assumed it was just a boil/rod out. When I picked up the radiator the repair guy was not there, so I paid the bill and put the radiator in the truck and came home.

It wasn't until I unloaded that I looked inside the radiator and saw it looked worst (in my opinion) than when I dropped it off. So I guess I paid $100 for the upper inlet tube and overflow hose tube repair and maybe a boil out and leak test. My first thought was to take it back and my second thought was to cut my losses and not deal with this shop in the future. Thats where I'm at today, do I throw more money at this brass radiator and have it re-cored or buy a new aluminum radiator. My intent was to keep the OEM radiator.

I understand the art of radiator repair is a dying trade that is aging out. My only repair options now are Birmingham or Nashville so a 1.5 to 2.5 hr drive if I can find a reapable shop.

Picture of repaired radiator

 

Just got off the phone with a radiator shop in Birmingham, a re-core will run $600-$800. To remove both tanks, boil/rod out will be $150.
This radiator is 50 years old and they weren't meant to last forever. If I throw another $150 at this radiator I'm hitting the cost of a new Cold Case Radiator and the re-core is a new Dewitts.
While the car is 90% or better OEM original and I'm not looking to play the NCRS correct game I do try to keep it original the best I can.

 

i was in same boat.. found a guy.. said ~$400 to recore..(3 years ago) and was no repairs so it sounds right on cost.. He also told me why would i not go to an aluminum radiator as it will do far better in heat dissipation than the old one..
Take the box from the new radiator.. insert old... and store in rafters.. or scrap it.. i still have my old one..
i would buy what fits the best with seals etc.. but of course lean USA.. i seen a few in sale section from Dewitts scratch dent.. that may fit? I got the universal dewitt from Zip for 399.. 3 years ago.. i bet not the same price anymore

 

That core does look like it's seen better days! If it doesn't have to be NCRS, personally I would get the DeWitt's and paint it black like the factory one! I would then put the original in the DeWitt's box and save it! You'll get modern, more efficient cooling, at a glance factory looking (being painted black) and should never have to worry about the radiator again!!! Most likely you'll even shed a little weight as well! You'll still have the original for the car, so it's a win-win IMHO! Good luck on whatever you decide👍

 

so put the OEM rad in the attic and replace with aluminum. even 135 dollar ebay version is superior to that rad...

 

My 69 is not and will never be 100% correct but I try to keep it as correct as possible . Last June I was in the same place that you are at with the radiator , replace or repair the original , The replacement was cheaper then to repairing the OE one . I chose to repair .
Steven

 

Looks like a new aluminum radiator is in my future, thanks for the input. I needed the sanity check before I throw some more $100 bills at the car.

 

If your budget permits, replace it with a new one. Be sure to use distilled water in your coolant mix. (Very important as it contains no minerals.) This will pretty much eliminate any corrosion which your old one has plenty of. This, of course, is after you've flushed the the entire system.

 

I hear you on that, it is a sickness, but there are far worse things to spend money on! As far as the vette goes, one could argue that the radiator could contend for the most important part under the hood! It's an absolute necessity, not like a set of wheels you don't like "the look" of....money well spent and justifiably so👍

 

Just ordered a DeWitt's, that left a mark on the old wallet.

 

I found the same experience. replaced the oem rads in both my 74 and my uncles 76 with champion radiators and the cooling capacity was superior. mines been in my car since 2012 and ive had zero issues.

 

Mr D.. did you see this garage sale one?? 73 and $399 @Mr D.

https://www.dewitts.com/collections/...te-32-1139073a

 

When you ordered your new DeWitts, did you have them apply their black coating?
Once you get their black radiator installed, with the shroud and seals, you’ll hardly notice it isn’t the original.
Did you go dual electric fans or stay with the clutch fan set up?
If you’re going the original clutch fan, then I would replace the clutch while it’s apart!

 

The new Dewitt's has arrived. Went to install it today and ran out of hands, will have to wait until Monday when I can have a friend come over and help drop it in.

Between the fan shroud, core support and AC condenser I'm fighting for space. Core support is as far forward as it will go (condenser hitting headlight actuator), fan shroud pulled back and slightly up as far as I can get it. If I can't drop it in next week I'm going to dump the AC charge and pull the condenser.

 

I just pulled my radiator, condenser and shroud out and thought, this would not be not be fun reinstalling all this.
Good luck!

 

Went back out today and tried to drop the radiator in by myself, no joy. I have been all over the interweb searching and reading on this subject and the general consensus is;

1) Remove the two bolts on each side of the radiator support. --> Did that.
2) Loosen but do not remove the bolts on the bottom of the support. --> Did that.
3) If there is a brace in front of the radiator support remove it. --> Have not done that. Won't make a difference with condenser hitting actuator.
4) Tilt the radiator support forward. --> Did that.
5) You can now remove the shroud and radiator.

Then you have the camp that says install the radiator and shroud as one unit, I don't even see how that is possible.

This was my FAV, frame pulled forward pivoting on the lower fender bolts (this gives loads of space), radiator gently lowered into place, lots of room and was easy to do.

 

After a number of these jobs, I find easiest for me is to install the shroud/radiator/radiator support as a sandwich package. Getting the DeWitt radiator onto the rubber support brackets and bolted onto the radiator support is easier on the bench than in the Corvette I think. Sometimes you need to use some 3/16" round rods to get the radiator support back into position and get all those 5/16" support bolts started without cross threading. Cover the radiator fins with thick cardboard to protect the fins too. I can not imagine trying to do this with the hood on. You might have enough room to roll the condenser forward out of the way and avoid a recharge. Hope this helps.

Agree unless you want a museum trailer queen, DeWitt is the way to go, pricey, but a great choice

 

The hood is off and AC condenser 4 attach point bolts removed, no water pump, fan, pulleys etc. installed. If I had my engine hoist at my current location I would do the shroud/radiator/radiator support as a single unit. I will call in some help next week and if I can't get this radiator in I will pull the AC condenser or actuators and see what that gets me for more room.

The pass side Upper A-Arm is the problem spot, if the shroud is pulled back and up the lower Rad outlet hits the A-Arm, if shroud is lower the outlet gets trapped inside the shroud.

This radiator came out so common sense says it will go back in, just need to find the right angle and dangles.

 

Much much easier as a 2 person job for sure. My better half occasionly gets drafted but the hourly rate is on par with top attorneys (and 24hr plumbers) !

Good luck! I find all C3 jobs eventually get done with insane persistence and some persuasive foul language.

Yep!, amazing how this stuff comes apart and then is seemingly impossible to go back together !

 

My 2-cents: Maybe I missed this point in previous comments, but radiator re-install will go much easier [a relative term, for sure] with the hood removed from the car. Been there, done that, on my lonesome. That's it. OUT!