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So I installed a Howard's roller cam and a high volume oil pump not to long ago. I haven't been driving the car due to some brake issues and honestly I shouldn't have started so many projects all day once, I got fatigued from working on it. Regardless, the motor hasn't run much and I'd say I put less than 50 miles on the car with the cam in. Today I was going to make sure I had tdc and took the distributor off and saw that the cam gear looked rough. Anyone know if this gear is too warn? It was in the last cam I had, so I don't know if it's normal ware. The new can has a little ware on it, but isn't like this. Is this bad or am I just looking at normal ware from a cam gear that was in an engine with 35k Distributor gear
Many retro roller cams require steel, bronze, melonized, composite or some other material for the dist gear other than iron or wear like this occurs and destroys both the cam and distributor gear. most aftermarket distributors (Even the cheap $60-120 tach drive ebay units) have the steel gear. thats what im using with my comp retro roller cam. I believe the reason is many roller cams have an iron gear on them and you cant use an iron gear with another iron gear. another possible cause of damage is if you dont have you lash correct with the cam button and the gears arent mating fully.
Many retro roller cams require steel, bronze, melonized, composite or some other material for the dist gear other than iron or wear like this occurs and destroys both the cam and distributor gear. most aftermarket distributors (Even the cheap $60-120 tach drive ebay units) have the steel gear. thats what im using with my comp retro roller cam. I believe the reason is many roller cams have an iron gear on them and you cant use an iron gear with another iron gear. another possible cause of damage is if you dont have you lash correct with the cam button and the gears arent mating fully.
So I talked to Howard's and they recommend a different gear. Figured the gear I put in it was stock, but I guess not. Now I'm just worried if I damaged my cam. Motor was only driven maybe 20 miles, and was only probably on for no more than 15 hours. Cam gear has a little shine, but nothing like the distributor gear. So I feel like if anything I don't have enough lash. But the cam isn't walking out, so that's not doing it. Possibly to tight
That oil pump drive tang looks kinda chewed up, too. Has this distributor been in a motor that ate it's internals?
Yeah I noticed that too. The gear was in an isky cam, I don't remember it looking bad but it could have been the same. The cam I took out doesn't look bad
So I talked to Howard's and they recommend a different gear. Figured the gear I put in it was stock, but I guess not. Now I'm just worried if I damaged my cam. Motor was only driven maybe 20 miles, and was only probably on for no more than 15 hours. Cam gear has a little shine, but nothing like the distributor gear. So I feel like if anything I don't have enough lash. But the cam isn't walking out, so that's not doing it. Possibly to tight
stock chevy distributor gears are not steel I believe.. only aftermarket. yours looks to be cast iron. you need something like this.. although you should measure your shaft diameter to confirm size. https://www.ebay.com/itm/39312590660...wAAOSw7VRgIWvg
stock chevy distributor gears are not steel I believe.. only aftermarket. yours looks to be cast iron. you need something like this.. although you should measure your shaft diameter to confirm size. https://www.ebay.com/itm/39312590660...wAAOSw7VRgIWvg
Actually, the gear looks the best compared to the housing.
Something beat that to death.
Are you using a thick gasket between the dizzy and the Intake manifold?
Sometimes when the dizzys clamp is torqued down it puts unwanted stress on the gears. A thick gasket will not only keep oil at bay but raise the gears mesh.
You can also buy shims in 0.015, 0.020 & 0.030 to raise the dizzy. The shim would be installed on top of the gasket.
or this one? https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...B&gclsrc=aw.ds the nylon retainer breaks. when i was young and stupid i put the pump back without getting a retainer cuz it was plastic and the shaft rode in a hole anyway.
By looking close at where the wear on the gear is towards the lower area id say if anything the damage to the intermediate shaft or something else prevented the distributor from fully seating and sitting low enough and fully meshing with the cam. I agree you may want another intermediate shaft of at least to clean the key up on the one you have.. also take a look at you mating surface where it engages the oil pump for damage. Is this a retro roller cam? you did use a cam button correct? just thinking if the cam wasnt pushed all the way into position it could possibly cause something weird like this also.
Reading this thread brought up alot of questions so my "newbieness" is showing:
When I had my original '71 350 rebuilt, the local builder installed roller rockers and I assume that means a roller cam was also used - is that correct?
Would a cam button also have been installed if a new roller cam was used?
I used a local vendor that my engine guy reccommended for my distributor refresh. Should I worry about what material the dizzy gear is made of??
The engine has not been run since the rebuild - heck, it isn't even installed in the chassis yet!
no, roller rockers and roller lifters are 2 different eends of the pushrod and do not have to be used together. in face all 87-newer small blocks (except some crate engines) are roller lifter with stamped steel ball-style rockers.
Any particular reason your piece requires a HV pump ? Otherwise, don't.
Thats all "hear - say" old rumors that have yet to be documented.
A HI Vol pump has a little bit (25%) wider gears inside the housing to flow a little more oil for cooling.
Distributor gear wear?
