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74 Leaf Spring Bushings

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Old Jul 26, 2022 | 12:58 AM
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Default 74 Leaf Spring Bushings

When I had my 74 SB up in the air doing rear brake work, I noticed the rubber leaf spring bushings have definitely seen better days. I did notice that when the car was jacked up, the bolt was not centered with the hole in the trailing arm where it would be removed from so I'm assuming the best was to do this is with the weight of the car on the suspension. The car does not have a rear sway bar and I have looked over various threads and believe I have a pretty good idea on how to tackle it safely. My two questions are;

1. Does replacing these bushings affect rear end alignment?
2. Since I'd like to keep the rear of the car sitting at the height it is at now, should I simply count the number of threads showing on the bolts before changing the bushings and then tighten back to similar position afterwards?
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Old Jul 26, 2022 | 05:34 AM
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Question 1. No it does not affect alignment if ride height is returned.
Question 2. New rubber bushings will likely raise your car a tad. You may wish a couple fewer threads showing.
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Old Jul 26, 2022 | 11:34 AM
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Originally Posted by 4-vettes
Question 1. No it does not affect alignment if ride height is returned.
Question 2. New rubber bushings will likely raise your car a tad. You may wish a couple fewer threads showing.
Thank you, sir!
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Old Jul 31, 2022 | 12:35 AM
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Just to confirm what I'm seeing here and what is in the AIM. I'm missing the metal cup on the bottom, correct? Leaf spring is 'resting' on the rubber bushing.



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Old Jul 31, 2022 | 02:43 AM
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Yup, should be a cup like washer that is part of the spring.
been many, many years since I removed the factory steel spring. But even my VB&P Mono spring has cups that are a part of the spring.
When you buy a "Kit" That has the bolts, nuts, washers and rubber bushings. You don't get the ones on the spring. as they are part of the spring. Swagged on as it were.
Interesting problem. Perhaps someone else has better information for you.
Me, I'd lose that heavy, squeaky, bouncy spring in a heart beat for a mono spring.
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Old Jul 31, 2022 | 03:40 AM
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Originally Posted by 4-vettes
Yup, should be a cup like washer that is part of the spring.
been many, many years since I removed the factory steel spring. But even my VB&P Mono spring has cups that are a part of the spring.
When you buy a "Kit" That has the bolts, nuts, washers and rubber bushings. You don't get the ones on the spring. as they are part of the spring. Swagged on as it were.
Interesting problem. Perhaps someone else has better information for you.
Me, I'd lose that heavy, squeaky, bouncy spring in a heart beat for a mono spring.
What about this? Exact same oem part numbers, according to my AIM. https://www.ebay.com/itm/175351924067

Only confusing part to me is why 4 cups are included when assembly manual only shows 1 per side. My biggest concern with replacing the spring with a mono is fear of it becoming ridiculously high. It's already at peak height (for my taste) in the rear and even with knowing I can go with 8 or 10" bolts to lower it, I still am concerned about opening a can of worms. But what do you say? Maybe you can talk me into it, lol!
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Old Jul 31, 2022 | 06:19 AM
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VB&P Mono spring rear. 330 lb. Bilstien shocks, B8's rear.
Factory Gymkhana springs front. one coil cut sitting on a 3/8 inch spacer.
Rear hanger bolts, 7 inches long. Factory are 6 3/8th's
Never seen a kit with 4 cup washers before but clearly you proved me wrong.
Changed out my rear spring in the mid 90's. Best thing for ride and handling I ever did. But yes you need correct shocks to match.
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Old Jul 31, 2022 | 10:08 AM
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PurePearl,
Been numerous stories on this forum about rear ride height complaints after installing so & so springs and / or cushion kits.
Worst case scenario, if you just can't stand the new ride ht. Take it back apart, one side at a time and shave the new rubber cushions a bit.
You know the ride ht with smashed cushions, you will know the ride ht with new cushions. So remove just enough material to get it perfect.

I don't like to see people using extra long spring bolts to reduce ride ht. This puts the castle nut closer to the tires sidewall. In the event that the tire starts losing pressure, the bolt will gladly remove the sidewall for you. Not pretty.

Use extreme caution when doing this type of work. The leaf spring is likely greasy right where you place your block of wood, C-clamp and jack.
If you have ramps, by all means back the car up on them for plenty of room underneath and knowing the car can not drop on you.
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Old Jul 31, 2022 | 11:18 AM
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Originally Posted by PurePearl32
What about this? Exact same oem part numbers, according to my AIM. https://www.ebay.com/itm/175351924067

Only confusing part to me is why 4 cups are included when assembly manual only shows 1 per side. My biggest concern with replacing the spring with a mono is fear of it becoming ridiculously high. It's already at peak height (for my taste) in the rear and even with knowing I can go with 8 or 10" bolts to lower it, I still am concerned about opening a can of worms. But what do you say? Maybe you can talk me into it, lol!
Four cups because two for the bottom rubber biscuits and two for the top rubber biscuits.
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Old Jul 31, 2022 | 10:29 PM
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Originally Posted by MelWff
Four cups because two for the bottom rubber biscuits and two for the top rubber biscuits.
Good catch. I was looking at the wrong AIM page
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Old Aug 18, 2022 | 01:19 PM
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Hi 4-vettes. When I was doing my shocks I too noticed the bushings on the leaf spring bolts were probably original to the car. When you say 'a tad' on height, do you think it might be 1/2" to 3/4" (12.7-19.05 mm)?
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