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My headlight switch will no longer dim the cluster lights, they are either full bright or off. I'm figuring that the rheostat in the switch is dead. Has anyone had any experience with replacing the switch...ie, the best way at the project, and best place to buy the parts I need.
Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
Brian-
Mine had the same problem---bad rheostat. As I recall, it was a PAIN trying to get the correct switch (with the vacuum ports) and they were VERY expensive.
I got a replacement AC Delco switch from my local AC Delco dealer. It did not have the vacuum ports on it but I was able to swap over that part to the new switch. I think it was only $15.
If I find the part number, I'll post it or e mail it to you.
All the major vendors supply the repro switch the vacuum ports. In my experience the repro switch is of inferior construction as compared to an original. The repro I installed failed after about a year of very little use The vacuum "plunger" broke internal to the switch.
As far as how to replace it, you'll have to drop the driver side instrument cluster and steering column to get it out. Time consuming and tedious work.
My advice, leave it alone. The dash lights are barely bright enough at full brightness. It's real easy to introduce electrical gremlins once you R&R the instrument cluster on these 30+ year old cars.
I checked most of the major vette suppliers and it looks like this is the the best price on them. Someone else will chim in if they know where else to check at a better price. http://www.parts123.com/PartFrame.as...Central $39.95
Neil in Tenn
When I had the same problems with my h/l switch, the dimmer portion....I saw the prices being super high for a gen-u-ine vette switch....I took the thing apart and managed to get a cheapy universal switch, and gring off the square corner of the ceramic holding the dimmer portion....on a grindstone wheel...and do it carefully...slowly....and keep the vacuum portion of the original switch....changing it over to the new one....if you work slow and carefully....it's fairly easy.....
Just finshed doing this fix-up this weekend. I removed the top dash pad (carefully) and accessed the switch easily through the top. Turns out my switch contacts were only corroded so I carefully took the switch apart and nail filled the contacts and greased the movable parts (dilectric grease). Worked like a hot damn. The dash lights are brighter than ever and, hopefully, the switch is good for another 30 years. You do not need to pull the driver's side lower dash panel to do this fix!! Recommend you replace the dash light bulbs while you have it apart. I did.