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I think I have everything ready to drop the TH 400 out of my 73 big block coupe.
All the electrical wiring and the vacuum module has been removed,
I have the shifter and linkage removed,
The interlock cable to the steering column has been removed,
The driveshaft has been removed,
Emergency brake cable was removed from the crossmember,
The transmission mount bolts are loosened and ready to be removed,
The crossmember bolts are loosened and the crossmember is ready to be removed,,
I ran two ratchet straps from the frame then under the engine oil pan to support the rear of the engine when I lower the car from the blocks,
I am supporting the rear of the engine with a 2 1/2 ton trolley jack, with wood blocks under the oil pan.
I have my 800 lb transmission jack supporting the transmission,
I have removed the three torque converter bolts,
I have loosened the bolts holding the transmission and engine together and they are ready to be removed.
I’m not happy with the safety chain that came with the jack which helps hold the transmission to the jacks plate, so I’ll throw a strap around the trans tomorrow before I lower the trans.
Everything has already been stripped from the engine.
Can anyone think of anything I’ve missed?
Last edited by OldCarBum; Aug 7, 2022 at 10:46 AM.
I also remove the distributor.....after putting the engine at TDC. That way I can lean the engine back without fear of damaging it.
If you have a mechanical fan then ensure you have room for it move as you lower the aft end of the tranny/engine combo.
I have a convertible but the last few times I've played with raising and lowering trannies I used the engine hoist with a chain through the shifter hole. That is even how I raised my 200-4R to slide the jack under it ....... I don't how the heck I ever got that heavy Richmond up before (before I figured out using the hoist that is).
I also remove the distributor.....after putting the engine at TDC. That way I can lean the engine back without fear of damaging it.
If you have a mechanical fan then ensure you have room for it move as you lower the aft end of the tranny/engine combo.
I have a convertible but the last few times I've played with raising and lowering trannies I used the engine hoist with a chain through the shifter hole. That is even how I raised my 200-4R to slide the jack under it ....... I don't how the heck I ever got that heavy Richmond up before (before I figured out using the hoist that is).
The fan, pulleys, accessories, and water pump have been removed.
Shroud, radiator, ac condenser and all ac components have also been removed.
First thing this morning I’ll be roofing a portion of our new shed.
When it gets too hot up on the roof, I’ll move into the garage and drop the trans.
Thanks for the help!
Are you sure you have the car high enough to get the trans out from under the car while it is sitting on the trans jack?
I have about 21” clearance between the frame rails and the ground, and even more if I need to roll it out the rear.
If I need a little extra, I have a couple of floor jacks and I can lift the chassis up on one side for a little more.
Once you have the tranny on the jack; if necessary, then you can gently slide it off the jack and onto the floor. Once on the floor you can "tilt" it to get out from under the car. I had to do that with my 200-4R.
Originally Posted by OldCarBum
I have about 21” clearance between the frame rails and the ground, and even more if I need to roll it out the rear.
If I need a little extra, I have a couple of floor jacks and I can lift the chassis up on one side for a little more.
I always pull the transmission first then the engine on vettes with the removable cross member.
Then install the motor with solid motor mounts down onto the frame with the rear down (no dizzy or valve covers) for ease of stabbing the transmission on.
Since you are going 5 speed. You just lift the transmission a little bit to leave access to connect the shifter shaft with the two Allen button head bolts to the shifter block. I use high temperature red silicone permatex on the threads to lock them in. Lift the transmission and install the cross member.
I always pull the transmission first then the engine on vettes with the removable cross member.
Then install the motor with solid motor mounts down onto the frame with the rear down (no dizzy or valve covers) for ease of stabbing the transmission on.
Since you are going 5 speed. You just lift the transmission a little bit to leave access to connect the shifter shaft with the two Allen button head bolts to the shifter block. I use high temperature red silicone permatex on the threads to lock them in. Lift the transmission and install the cross member.
Put the fuel pump on before lowering the engine
Thanks for the great tip.
I’m already going to solid motor mounts, so that should make installation easier.
I purchased a mechanical fuel pump, but have been thinking about installing an electric fuel pump so I can mount it to make access to it easier.
Thanks for the great tip.
I’m already going to solid motor mounts, so that should make installation easier.
I purchased a mechanical fuel pump, but have been thinking about installing an electric fuel pump so I can mount it to make access to it easier.
I don't like electric unless you have to. noise and they seem to fail, where mechanical can last a lifetime. You need a return style pump
I removed the transmission this afternoon and it went pretty smooth except for a couple little issues.
I started by checking the straps and both hydraulic jacks.
Everything was fine but, my trolley jack I had supporting the engine had dropped down a couple of inches over night, so I had to add some fluid, bleed it and then it was ready to go.
I didn’t like the way the safety chain on the jack connected and sure enough, as soon as I moved the jack the chain disconnected, so I needed to strap the chain to the jack.
One of the bolts connecting the transmission to the engine, loosened up all the way but it was just long enough that it hit the firewall at the transmission tunnel.
It took some time and movement between the engine and transmission to wiggle the bolt out.
The HF jack worked flawlessly and it lowered the transmission to the ground without any issues.
”Surprise”, I pulled the dipstick tube out and about a gallon of trans fluid gushed out on the garage floor, which took some time to clean up.
Now I just have a couple of front bumper brackets to remove, then I can lower the car and pull the engine.
Thanks again for all your tips.
Did you cut your dipstick tube? Looks really short.
I did cut it.
It stuck up too high and was preventing me from rolling the transmission around under the car and would not allow me to pull the transmission out from under the car.
At the brief moment I was finally able to remove it, all the fluid started to gush out all over the garage floor and I jabbed it back in.
I just cut it short because I didn’t know how much fluid I would have on the floor if I removed it while I was rolling the transmission out from under the car.
As it was I had to tilt the front of the trans down as far as the jack would allow just to roll it out.
I know, Bubba move, but dipstick tubes are cheap and this trans isn’t going back in anyway.
Thanks for the great tip.
I’m already going to solid motor mounts, so that should make installation easier.
I purchased a mechanical fuel pump, but have been thinking about installing an electric fuel pump so I can mount it to make access to it easier.
Don't even think about electric, I only did an electric pump because I had to. That said, I don't know if mechanicals these days are generally crappy, so that might be worth a forum query.
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Dropping the Transmission, Am I Missing Anything?
