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I noticed that the passenger front tire had developed negative camber very quickly. Upon investigation I found that one of the upper control arm bolts had loosed approximately 1". I tightened the bolt and problem solved. I still have to torque as per spec, but I have a question.
Question;
Am I to assume there are no lock washers as per aim on a 75 model year.?
If one of your UCA bolts appears to have loosened 1”, I’d be willing to bet it was due to your shims falling out.
I’ve never heard of those bolts loosening on their own if torqued properly.
No, your 75 should not have lock washers.
Id invest in some replacement UCA bolt sets as well as replacement shims. Install 2-3 shims (as a base line alignment) where the problem area was and then get a professional alignment done.
Should be good to go.
They don't use lock washers but those nuts are the deformed end ones (squashed on three sides at the end) so they are locknuts (sometimes called top-lock or prevailing torque nuts)
Once they've been on and off a couple of times the thread will be pushed back into "normal" shape and no longer act as lock nuts
M
You can kind of see the triangle shape at the top on this picture
I had the alignment done by a shop recommended by this forum approximately 1000 miles ago and the shims are still intact. I’ve since readjusted the tie rods as the alignment wasn’t done properly.
I did the restoration myself in record time, so I may have forgotten to torque them upon reassembly.
Mooser
Sorry, I should have specified that the bolt that came loose is for the upper control arm shaft, I don’t believe it has a nut and I don't see an part number for the bolt.
I did learn something today in that I never knew that nuts come in deformed style (top-lock). Thanks Mooser.
I'm going to torque them to 60-75 ft pounds and monitor them to see if they come loose again.
Last edited by Maymyvetteliveforevr; Aug 11, 2022 at 04:48 PM.
I had the alignment done by a shop recommended by this forum approximately 1000 miles ago and the shims are still intact. I’ve since readjusted the tie rods as the alignment wasn’t done properly.
I did the restoration myself in record time, so I may have forgotten to torque them upon reassembly.
Mooser
Sorry, I should have specified that the bolt that came loose is #4 in the aim, I don’t believe it has a nut.
I did learn something today in that I never knew that nuts come in deformed style (top-lock). Thanks Mooser.
I'm going to torque them to 60-75 ft pounds and monitor them to see if they come loose again.
OK now I'm confused, #4 in that AIM image is pointing to the nut for the bolt, #2 in the image, that holds the upper control arm shaft and shims to the frame.
What came loose?
M
Mooser
I apologize, you're correct, I actually meant, the bolt that screws into the ends of the upper control arm shaft. In the aim, it shows a triangle with the #4 which referrers to the torque spec, not the item number. I don't see an part number for the upper control arm bolt.
Mooser
I apologize, you're correct, I actually meant, the bolt that screws into the ends of the upper control arm shaft. In the aim, it shows a triangle with the #4 which referrers to the torque spec, not the item number. I don't see an part number for the upper control arm bolt.
I'll correct the original and follow up post. .
Sorry.
Not a problem, I just misunderstood which one you were talking about.
The upper control arm, bushings and shaft were supplied as an assembly from the supplier so they don't show it in individual parts.
M
Question re control arm bolts.
