Hood Release Cable
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 228
Likes: 67
From: Kennewick WA
Hood Release Cable
So, a funny thing happened today while attempting to fab up an emergency hood release cable thingy. I was trying to use the existing hole where the factory cable goes through the spring-loaded bracket on the 73. It fit just fine, and I tried running it down along the rounded edge of the fiberglass firewall towards the open area below. Well, I closed the hood and tried pulling on the emergency cable and it didn't seem to open the hood, so that's a no go. So, I pulled on the factory hood release as I've done for years and the damn thing broke! lol! To my surprise the hood was opened! Woo Hoo for me. I was surprised to see that the factory cable was actually a solid wire! I never really looked closely at it before. I temporarily ran the long emergency hood release cable into the cabin but I'm leaving the hood open until the new replacement arrives. Always something with these cars! I guess for almost 50 years that's not too bad in the larger scheme of things.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2018
Posts: 2,321
Likes: 720
From: Marietta GA
Did you order the rubber boot that mounts on the firewall where the metal hood cable enters the cockpit? Mine was torn, so I ordered a replacement boot along with a new cable. Oh, it’s no walk in the park fishing the cable from the cockpit through the firewall. Good Luck.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 228
Likes: 67
From: Kennewick WA
Eliredandblack,
Thanks for the reply. Yes, I saw that little rubber boot and mine is still in good nick. My temp cable went into the existing cable sheath fine both ways. Of course it's braided cable vs. the solid factory one and as such more pliable I think (the factory one goes in but seems like it's catching on something?).
Thanks for the reply. Yes, I saw that little rubber boot and mine is still in good nick. My temp cable went into the existing cable sheath fine both ways. Of course it's braided cable vs. the solid factory one and as such more pliable I think (the factory one goes in but seems like it's catching on something?).
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2019
Posts: 5,431
Likes: 2,158
From: Loveland
Make sure the hood latch bullet is centered correctly. I used a piece of paper over the hood latch,,, rub a pencil over it to get a image of the latch hole. Then put a bit of dark grease on the end of the bullet,,,,, close the hood just enough so the bullet touches the paper. Then you will know where the bullet enters the hood latch hole. I adjusted the bullet so it was closer to where the latch moves than the top edge. The top edge is where the bullet can get stuck.
Last edited by kodpkd; Sep 7, 2022 at 03:18 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2018
Posts: 2,321
Likes: 720
From: Marietta GA
32
Remove the firewall boot and turn the plastic pull handle (different orientations) to find the pathway to the engine compartment. The old outer casing doesn’t want the new cable to go all the way to the engine compartment. I think eventually after a good bit of cussing, I put a very slight bend in the solid cable. I know the repair was around a 5 on the C3 pain meter.
Remove the firewall boot and turn the plastic pull handle (different orientations) to find the pathway to the engine compartment. The old outer casing doesn’t want the new cable to go all the way to the engine compartment. I think eventually after a good bit of cussing, I put a very slight bend in the solid cable. I know the repair was around a 5 on the C3 pain meter.
