Its not "what" you have been told that counts.
Its by "whom" you have been told.

Excellent credentials are worth gold.
Rumors are worth dust.

 

I was told this by a cam grinder that buys blanks.

 

I could be wrong because I read so many cam threads when researching what to go with but believe heard It from Harold UD on either speed talk or yellow bullet forum when reading an older thread. He worked for both lunati and comp cams before they were bought out by the same company it was a thread discussing the xe cams vs the voodoo line which if I remember right he was mainly responsible for... Like soo many now days there "brands" often only exist on paper or in office buildings because of their reputation to sell. I believe there was another that did actually make their own cams but I cant remember if it was crane or ultradyne... now sure what happened to ultradyne but I think crane sold out to edelbrock about the same time as comp and lunati... The reality is this stuff is suffering the same fate as the newspaper industry now.. The customer base is nothing like it used to be so its all being consolidated and parts are being more or less mass produced under contract in production runs and sometimes sold under slightly different advertised specs to throw folks off from putting 2 and 2 together

 

Just like anything else it seems the giants are forcing the little guys out little by little.
Still riding on the name and reps those companies had at one time but the product aint the same.
Sad...weve done it to ourselves though.
Support the independents!

 

Just to clarify here I was told my comp cam was made In the USA by howards cams. from what I was told Howards makes a lot of cams for a lot of resellers like summit as well.

 

Back to our regularly scheduled program....

The OP wanted cam selection criteria.
You have some parts that would support a nice mid-range power setup.
The single most important cam selection factor is too not go too big on duration. Do not be swayed by big HP claims.
Look carefully at the lower end of the cam's recommended operating range, as well as the upper one.
A stone stock 300HP cam is like 600-4800 rpm range. Duration 195 at .050
1600 or at most 1800, to 5800 would give you a very nice mid-range, and still pull very strong on the low end. Duration probably around either 214 (1200) or 224 @ .050 (1600/1800). I would not recommend any bigger for you, without more mods.
Hydraulic rollers cost roughly $800 more, are more reliable long-term, and can gain 20-30HP, with the same duration.

Durations near or past 230 quickly lose bottom end, require more engine & trans performance mods, but pull better upstairs. Great for drags tho.

Once you decide on a couple of those basics above, call a cam grinder or two on the phone, for specific recommendations.
Once you decide on your rpm range you can pick heads. Buy the best you can. But keep the runner size on the mid to low end of what flow you need to get that rpm with a 400. You want intake velocity for crisp throttle and torque. Good heads can be worth 40+HP over stock heads. And make sure the CR is 10:1 Call AFR for recommendations.

You do not want a peaky high rpm HP engine for street or autocross. You won't get into it's sweet spot often enough. (BTDT. 27 year Pro-solo veteran)

 

As I read your post you have a sbc 400 you are going to get driving. And you may swap the heads . I would get it driving and then decide if you need more power. Forst things first ! B/C you may have enough power already . . .

 

@wwiiavfan was already looking into that. I'm debating what radiator to go with. I have the engine at the machine shop now and I told them to inform me if they see any worrying issues

 

@OMF that one is my mistake when I looked up information on the compression what came up was 10 to 1. So its most likely 8 to 1