Ok,after the last few months have done a complete makeover to the top part of my 1981 ,I think L81,and someone can better tell me,I think a 13-2 compression and a 190 hp. Parts were New E-Street performance Edelbrock heads, I have the sheet some where,but I think they were 64cc, 2.02 ports.Edelbrock performance intake,Edelbrock AVS2 carburetor,HEI distributor,with long tube headers,and 2 1/2 pipes.
Now,in the next few months want to pull engine and make this a 383, so,really only wanted around 400 hp,but will also add a tiny cam to engine,and go to a roller rockers.I just replaced the pushrods and lifters,and think I can still use them,so what kit,and thinking comp cams cam the 268 or 262 would work for me.any special brand or type stroker kit I need. Thanks

 

Is it a roller or flat tappet.
The old 268 is a tried and true cam, good manners great torque.

 

Never reuse lifters on a flat tappet cam.

 

Flat

 

Well,so far I’ve cranked it less than a dozen times,and it never ran longer than 4-5 minutes at a time.but will double check them before I replace them,although the whole kit is only a few more $.

 

You can reuse them but they must be on the lobe of the cam that they were used on. Re-lube all of it the same as the first time and do a full break-in. But inspect them very close first, that's alot of cranking and no "break-in" so far.

 

he is talking replacing the cam. can't reuse lifters. even if they only have 1 minute run time. time to ditch flat tappet cam. roller rockers are a waste of money and space in your valve cover. roller lifters and cam is what you need to be looking at. you don't need 800 buck a set howards lifters, but you don't want 125 buck a set ebay ones either.

 

What happens to the lifter in that one minute of run time with all that breaking lube that makes the face unsuitable to be broken in on a new cam? old used lifters I can see there being a problem with matched wear patterns but I really can fathom the surface being so worn at this point that they cant be broken in on a new cam... I took a good look at the tappet lifters I pulled last year and the surface had no cupping I could see even with 6,000 miles. Ive also seen people mention they reuse lifter with no issues when breaking in new cams on the hot rod forums.

OP better consider having that 2004r trans rebuild and beefing it up... My desktop dyno software told me I had over 400hp (realistically likely around 375) with the old 262 voodoo cam I pulled out of my 355 ....when going to the 270 roller cam.
I do have an old 268h cam with matching lifters that has about 3000 miles on it Id sell cheap if interested. it came in the shortblock I bought 10 years ago.

OP these are the roller lifters I use... I have 1.6rrs and comp double springs.. no issues. even had it all apart again this summer to swap in aluminum heads.

BTW you have nowhere near 13:2 compression.. you have dished pistons and you likely used those thick .040 head gaskets instead of shim gaskets that would have given you a better quench with your .023-.025 deck hieght... so your compression is somewhere in the 9:1 range but they positive aspect of that is you can run 87 octane fuel with no issues and will see no benefit running anything higher. if id guess Id say your probably making 300hp or so if you still have the stock cam.
and what size are those new estreet heads? 170cc ? 180?...383 can really benefit from even larger better flowing heads. (and a better flowing carb)

If I were you I would consider changing out you rear gears to 3.55 or 3.73 gears. that will give you a real power improvement.. unless your just looking to brag about having a stroker... nothing wrong with that I guess... but a lot of folks at the cruise nights seem to do it even when they dont have one so .. Just a couple weeks ago I had some guy chewing my ear off about his "350 stroker"... I think half of them dont even know what they are.

 

Yea,I definitely would be interested,but waiting on Summit to call me back,to make sure what combination I need with my heads and other components and the 268 cam,is it comp cams or another brand,and Derek,I thought that the roller rockers were the way to go.

 

Roller rockers are superior in the industry for wear but offer next to nothing in the way of adding power. Roller cams can give you an extra 30hp over a flat tappet cam of the same size if the rest of your engine is setup to be able to benefit from the additional flow.

summit cams are also made by howards... the same company that actually makes most cams for comp and lunati... Both comp and lunati are owned by edelbrock these days and are more about marketing and distribution now than they were when they were a competing manufacturer.

 

Definitely going 355 gears,still deciding what to do to engine,but any ideas on what the cost for the machinists for doing block .30 and crankshaft for 383, what do they charge for that,and not doing assembly,just block ready for assembly.

 

augie,

A quick Google search shows that Comp Cams and Edelbrock merged. Nether owns the other.
They are now owned by Industrial Opportunity Partners.
No mention of Howards.

These cams have been manufactured in Jackson, Mich. I would imagine those are the blanks made that are sent nationwide for final processing to a few companies. The high tech multi-million-dollar CNC machines is not something all companies can afford to own nor operate to any massive degree in production. If any two companies can afford those machines, it's the two mentioned above.

Edelbrock has been a leader in manufacturing and selling Intake Manifolds, Cylinder Heads and to a lesser degree camshafts, water-pumps, carbs and the like.

The cam blanks made in Jackson, MI come from Camshaft Machine Co. since 1942. Huge operation.

 

These Edelbrock heads are 185cc and 60cc. And exh valve is 2.02.

 

the main block work when putting a stroked crank is clearancing the areas where the rods hit the block.

example https://k1technologies.com/blog/how-...ker-crankshaft

 

I dont think google would necessarily affiliate Howards with comp. Companies dont advertise when the have others OEMing things for them but hey maybe Ive been told wrong.. I know I read it more than once and It was from a person who worked at Howards grinding the cams for years so they claimed..... They also stated they made them for summit.

According to that person, Howards grinds many of the cams for lunati and comp, at least thats what I had read on speedtalk a while back and yes all three companies (four if you count Crane which IOP also bought up the marketing rights for as well last year I believe) have that same owner.. To me when they are all operating as DBAs and having the strings pulled by one parent company they are all one company... I dont think of GMC and Chevy as different companies but rather different "divisions" of the same company GM... But your right of course .. Edelbrock doesnt own comp... Edelbrocks owner owns comp and the like... GMC and chevy truck are not the same either even though 98% of the parts are interchangeable and they come off the same assembly line... They are of course their own companies and neither own the other.. I'm sure its a similar situation with all 4 of these companies selling cams under the same owner since it only makes the best business sense now that this stuff is mainly novelty and hobby use and the market has shrunk so much.

I'm not doubting what you say about where the camshaft blanks are made... To be fair though ive read that most of the sbc engine cranks are forged in china now too regardless of the fact that other companies "machine" them here and claim them to be american made. We generally give those companies credit for making them not the chinese manufacturer who made the blank so to speak.. The reality is this stuff leaves a LOT open to interpretation and marketing manipulation. Hopefully what ive read is wrong and lunati, comp, edelbrock and crane are all blissfully and redundantly making thier own camshafts under the same owner but I really dont think thats the case.

 

I just had my block done by a local machine shop during Spring. Cost about $1200 bucks for them to hot tank, magnaflux, line hone, cylinder bore (I went .040 over), decking, and clear the bottom of the block for the added size of the 400 crank that makes a 350 with a standard bore into a 383. That was for a completely UN-ASSEMBLED bare block, where I have to put it back together. In other words, I gave the shop a bare block, and I got back a bare block.

Keep in mind that even if you purchase a fully balanced rotating assembly, the machine shop will likely ask you to bring it in along with the block so they can run one piston through the cylinders with the crank teporarily installed (so they can properly clearance it).

Just make sure you are careful in picking the shop to do the work- my block got damaged during the decking procedure (thank goodness it is still usable - I hope, at least!), so the machine shop ended up sourcing another block as a replacement, while letting me keep my block, which had already been fully worked, with the decking being the last process.... Fortunately, it was not the original block that's in my '69, or I would have been very upset - I had another 350 block laying around that I wanted to make use of buy turning into a 383 stroker (or in my case a 385) to replace the original motor, that I want to store away.

All said and done, with the Eagle 383 stroker kit, Edelbrock top end kit, Scorpion roller rockers, and various ancillary items, along with the machine work, I'm in it about 3.5K-4K. Not bad....

 

1200 seems awfully high for that.. if the OP is redoing a numbers matching block they wouldnt want to deck it correct?

 

Not to sound like the Kool-Aid Man, but Oh yeah! - I thought it was high too. Especially taking into account all the mess ups and time it took for them to complete the work (about two months!!!), and they didn't charge for the hot tanking of the replacement block. I was hoping to get some sort of discount, but I didn't have the energy to argue with them - so I paid the bill, grabbed my two blocks, and left. At least I got two blocks out of the deal - they asked if I wanted mine that they messed up, and I said heck yeah.
I was originally thinking of making it into a table, but realized (with some good input from members here) that it may be salvageable! Just needs to be hot tanked (they didn't get to that) and need to check the cylinders to see if they are all standard bore, 040, or 060. Here's the thread for reference:

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...lvageable.html

It depends on what shape the deck is in. They took .005 off mine to clean it up (they wanted to ZERO-deck it, and I told them NOOOO!). I think that's pretty typical, unless the deck is nice with no crazy gashes, isn't pitted or warped, then it can (and probably should) be left alone.

I'm running flat top pistons, and I need all the head clearance I can get to keep the compression down to semi-manageable levels (approx 10.4:1). I'm trying to not have to play the 'head gasket thickness' game any more than I have to, but that will all come out when I measure for quench.

 

Ok,well I guess I shouldn’t be mad about the machinist,he quoted me a price of $420 although mine will be .030 and he’s been business 30+ years,but people say it’s not pretty,and he want smooth and grind areas,but I hadn’t checked with another guy,but I know he will be more expensive but I imagine he stays pretty busy,because he builds race engines,but he does everything to get the most performance he can,but racing or most of it will be over soon,so he should slow down.

 

Usually they get busier in the "off season" than during the racing season, but be the first in if at all possible !