C3 Forum Members,

My 4 year old alternator went out on me yesterday, fortunately in my driveway. It was only pushing out 10 volts and the car just died. It was a 110 amp OEM replacement job i scored from Ecklers. I am running a Derale 2400 cfm fan - 24 amp draw, a 500 watt stereo power amp, Halogen headlights and a vintage air conditioning. This past summer the fans ran constantly as I sat MANY hours in LA traffic.

I was looking at the DC Power Inc 10SI Alternator. It advertises 130 amps at idle, 180 amps total. It will set me back close to 5 bills, but if is worth it I don't have a problem with that The other one was the TSP version which is less then half the costs.

Anybody have experience with or knowledge of these two alternators. My thinking is to score a high output job so it doesn't have to work as hard running my fan which is constantly running especially at idle.

God Bless
Bob

 

I recommend a 140-amp CS-144. Easy peasy and works like a dream. Should be able to find a plug-in adapter .... lemme look for another thread with the info.

Here you. Start here. Lotsa info with background info and the adapters you may need.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1604885907

 

if you want to stick with stock looking 10SI, rebuild the one you already have. you can get a bigger rotor and stator to push the up the amps to whatever anybody else sells. i assume your existing alternator did the trick until death did it part? may just need a trio and a diode plate. i doubt you use all 500 watts of amp power. at least not at idle in traffic. ac doesn't draw much except the cooling fans which are running anyway.

 

I am using a Tuff Stuff 120 amp Chrome alternator with a Inter-State Deep Cycle battery. I have a Holley EFI system along with the dual SPAL 11" fans but only a 40 watt stereo system. My battery stays fully charged and never has any problems starting the high compression 427 using a Gear Drive starter. Your fan power sounds like the start up current draw as my dual Spal fans draws that much initially but drops when running. To keep my battery voltage from getting hit hard by starting the two electrical cooling fans at once I am using a DeRale PWM Electric Fan Controller. This device starts the fans up slowly at 50% power/Speed and will then ramp up the fan speed if the engine continues to get warmer. I have no idea how much the AC system draws while running but have had many years of good service using Deep Cycle batteries in place of the Starting battery, with your stereo it might help you if you like to play it with the engine off. Having a Gear drive starter also reduces the load on the battery when cranking the engine. My factory starter drew several times the current to do the same job.

The main reason I am using a Deep cycle battery is that my cooling system can and does run for a few minutes while it cools down after shutdown. The DeRale PWM controller is wonderful and can control either a single or dual fan setup and really reduces the under the hood fan noise. I personally think that a lot of people buy HUGE alternator outputs thinking that it will keep the battery fully charged. Larger output alternators draw more power to make the extra power, I tend to try and stay closer to the smaller output alternators so I can adapt it to the Corvette's wiring system easily. I ran a #4 gauge wire to the battery terminal on the starter from the alternator output. The alternator I have can easily push the battery voltage back up after starting as it can push ~40 amps at idle and with a ~100 amp hour battery that is still a lot of charging power.

Being a battery person for many years I have yet found an application where you "need" a 180 amp output for a automotive battery that stores usually about 100 amp hours in total capacity. If you are using a very high output alternator be sure to buy a Flooded Lead Acid battery with access to the individual cells so you can add water as needed. I like this type of battery as they can last longer if you are able to add distilled water to the electrolyte as needed.

 

CS144 is a good upgrade. Stock it was designed for 140A vs a 10SI being designed for maybe 63A originally and then "hot rodded" to produce more current from there. An alternator from a 96 LT1 Impala such as an ACDELCO 3351048 would work if you're looking for a cross reference. You need an adapter plug, the link carriljc posted lists them.

 

As much as I normally think the High output 10si works well in this configuration and use one myself (cheap ebay version though), I think due to your circumstances something like the cs144 would be a better option for you the 10si housing just doesnt hold up to the heat when having to output soo much, soo often for long periods.

 

Make sure your wiring matches the voltage output. Use quality GXL or TXL wiring, not the cheap parts store stuff, and quality crimps as well.

 

Of course..... if my CS-144 ever fails I may consider going to a AD-244. I finally found a curve for one in the below post. Looks like the 200 amp AD-244 this guy is using puts out like 125 amps at at 2000 alternator RPM (where the 140 amp CS-144 puts out about 95 amps). The pump curve is within that post.
https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...#&gid=1&pid=10

 

I knew I could count on you guys I appreciate the referral o the Tuff Stuff Alternator looks like a great product and very reasonable priced at least on summit. But I am really considering the advise from Mr. Augiedoggy regarding the CS being able to withstand the heat better then the SI. I have had alternators last decades. that engine compartment gets and stays hot with that 454 stuffed in there.

Thank you all for the input.

 

Me, I run a Tuff Stuff 140 amp. Yes upgraded wiring. Tuff Stuff is American made. Good quality.
VERY happy with my Tuff Stuff alternator.